Internal Chassis/cavity Rust Protection - Latest?

[Martin V]

I’m thinking to remove some of the chassis rail grommets and spray a rust inhibitor/protector through the rails / cavities (doors, tailgate) and under bodywork edges. Now I have a compressor it makes sense to do what seems a sensible task.

Just need to buy a sprayer which seems to be easy enough with plenty inexpensive options - recommendations are welcome.

BIG QUESTION though is what to spray into the cavities? 
I read a few previous older threads and saw Dinitrol ML (or other 1000?) or Dynax S50 were rated over the common Waxoyl (various brands it seems).

What would the experienced amongst us recommend?

[AndyTV8]

In the past I have used Dinitrol ML which has been good. Just for kicks I am intending to try Lanoguard this autumn.

…….. Andy

[ed.h]

I use a waxy aerosol stuff that I believe is the same stuff that Ziebart uses.  Looks, feels, and smells the same anyway.

Ed

[GFL]

I've used both Dynax S50 & Dinitrol 3125, they both cover well and creep into all the seams.

It's best to shake well and warm the fluid in hot water before application, the S50 Is available in aerosol with a long wand and works very well

Be aware it's a very messy job and the fluid will run out of all the drain holes. 

Suitable Disposable paper overalls, eye protection and latex gloves are advisable too.

Gary 

Edited 3 hours ago by GFL

[Dick Twitchen]

I have used both with success when I restored my GT6 over 20 years ago.  The S50 with it's wand I found more convenient, and also easier for a quick top up if desired.  As Gary said it does run out of all the holes you know about, and some you don't, so make sure you put paper/cardboard under the car to preserve the floor!

Dick

[Colin Lindsay]

15 hours ago, AndyTV8 said:

In the past I have used Dinitrol ML which has been good. Just for kicks I am intending to try Lanoguard this autumn.

…….. Andy

I've used Lanoguard on my cars, both classic and moderns, this last two years. It's a 'wet look' and makes things shiny - it certainly removes the dried rusty look from suspension components - but as a rust treatment, it wears off very quickly and requires regular replacement. I suspect it's more of a coating than a treatment, so if you have minimal or surface rust, it'll stop it getting any worse. For chassis interiors I use Waxoyl or the like, it's not going to go anywhere so won't be washed off by use, and you can get more of it for your money than Dinitrol (😁). Feed it through every hole in the chassis, as much as you can. It'll drip out for a time and will eventually find its' own level inside the sections.

I've also been known to blow out the chassis with an airline then pour in Jenolite followed by a diluted quantity of rust-inhibitor paint, red oxide or the like, and if the chassis is off the car I can turn it over and make sure the top half is also covered.  On Heralds with the long boot extensions you can lift the rear of the car as far as possible then blow Waxoyl in, it'll run right down to the main rails and coat everything as far as it spreads.

The guys are correct re warming Waxoyl or the like first, though - soften it well to a tea-like liquid form and it'll spray on so much more easily.

[Jon J 1250]

I used Lanoguard about 3 years ago and like Colin say it is less durable than oil based products, however I haven't need to reapply any yet. Though this shouldn't be a problem inside the chassis rails, I would probably suggest reapplying every 3-5 years as I imagine it might dry out.
Also when done block up as many crevices and holes in the chassis with oil/Lanoguard soaked rags as possible, which will stop water/dirt collecting, especially the ends of the boot outriggers.

Lanoguard is very runny and creeps really well into crevices, it is wet look when freshly applied and then dries out to a yellowish/greening matt look, which will pick up dirt over time. That said it is fairly easy to remove/clean with white spirit and then reapply if you want to refresh it.

Also it does feel rather less poisonous than oil/wax based products, which I like (I don't want to use things that will do me too much harm) however I would very much recommend wearing a mask if spraying and sheeting over the paintwork on top of you car as the atomised spray will get on the paint.

The photos attached show it freshly applied on top photo, and after 2 years on the bottom.

Edited 29 minutes ago by Jon J 1250

[Martin V]

Thanks for the feedback and useful tips.

I’m going to give the Dinitrol ML a go and with my compressor and an offer of 3 x1 litre cans plus included sprayer kit from world of lubricant distributor it seems a good way to go. This seems their specific cavity product and with the sprayer it should give good coverage.

Everything outside and beneath the car is in great shape but I will give the front bonnet hinge buckets a blast of this stuff and probably around wheel arches if enough left.

I’ll share if I feel anything additional from my experience.

thanks again.