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Herald door seals


natty

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Hi Folks

 

I have just fitted some new door seals to my 13/60 herald saloon but now i can not shut the doors without giving them a good slam. I bought them from MEV spares. My question is are they the wronge ones,has anyone had the same problem as me and if so how did you cure it, i was thinking maybe i should have bought them from canley classics or rimmer brothers. Any help would be great cheers.

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Are the rubber bits tubelike?

If so they are the same as supplied by many people. However, IIRC original ones have a lip. 

Bill at Rarebits is the man for all things Herald. may not be as cheap as ebay, but not much more. But he ONLY sells quality stuff, especially seals.

 

I doubt you can return them just because the are not original in style. You can knock the metal lip that the seals push onto back inwards a little using a hammer and bit of wood.

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the seal Rare Bits 4 Classics    http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/     well know supplier of  original spec components .

 

market does replecate the orininals the singl e flip/lipped seal takes the ballon out of the bubble seals most will purport to being 

correct,  fit Bills lipseal and door shuts will be a nice tolerable clunk not the wham bang slam   that many end up with.

 

    many of us have been down this learning curve over the years .

 

 

   another good place to have a browse at thousands of original seal extrusions and contours is 

           http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/

       

 

Pete

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  • 8 years later...
  • 11 months later...

Sorry to butt in.

I hate having to slam shut the doors on my Herald convertible which, from what I read above, is likely caused by the non-original door seals.

Is the DX73 profile suitable for a Herald convertible?

Thanks Dave

 

 

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certainly yes     if unsure C O Baines will send you a small sample  if you give them a call

any single flip seal is more as it should be , never designed for balloon/tubed type profiles that too many sell 

as replacements 

Pete

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i was sold door seals for the 2000  completely wrong with v wedge supposed to slide in the C channel retainer  got told it takes over an hout to lever it in each door even advised to take the doors off !!!!    just like on the triumph assy line  i dont think

CO Baines to the rescue find a seal with the appropriate T profile retainer  takes about 5 mins to fit with the door still in place

does anyone listen  ......

The Baines area rep was in the area and called in for  cuppa and see how it all went ....brilliant service

they dont list all seal/vehicle compatibility but the web site is an easy search for what you need 

get this in your little black book of supplies Rubbers Extrusions, Seals and Profiles Manufacturer - COH Baines (coh-baines.co.uk)

 

Pete

Edited by Pete Lewis
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RoofA.thumb.jpg.364125c09067a96afc075299b7950ac4.jpgThanks Pete

Ordered the DX73 door seals from Bines yesterday, they arrived this morning and I've just finished fitting  the first one.  Excellent!

 

However I also included in my order the header seal for the soft top and its different from the existing rubbish one and don't know which way round it should be fitted so I impose on you yet again.  Which way please "A" or "B"?

Ta Dave

Roof B.jpg

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Thanks Gary.

The aluminium channel along the front of the hood is the same profile as that at the side.

I can see how the profile of the rubber which I have is held in place by the two channels along the edge of the aluminium but how is the correct one along the header rail held in place?

Ta

Dave

 

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1 hour ago, daveg said:

Thanks Gary.

The aluminium channel along the front of the hood is the same profile as that at the side.

I can see how the profile of the rubber which I have is held in place by the two channels along the edge of the aluminium but how is the correct one along the header rail held in place?

Ta

Dave

 

The reproduction header rail seals are held in place by squeezing them into the metal channel section fixed along the header rail, I think I squeezed it in one side then used a blunt old screwdriver to ease them into position on the other side of the channel.

I've read the original seal profile was similar to the door channel seals were they fit in the channel section, more like an upside down 'T' Section if that makes sense.

I suppose you could use glue (Evo stick) as well to hold them in place too if you want extra security.

Regards

Gary

 

Edited by Gary Flinn
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22 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:

Dave

That's not the header rail seal, its the door glass seal to the Hood frame channels?

This is what you need for the Header Rail:-

https://coh-baines.co.uk/products/black-epdm-u-channel-16mm-wide-x-15mm-high-srs155 

Regards

Gary

Looks like the roof to frame seal from the saloon / estate? Either way you're correct that the u-channel is the one you need and it's self-evident as to how it fits, once you see it in the flesh.

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Thanks for your help folks.

One, hopefully the last question, what is the current way round for the seal between the hood frame and the window glass?

Currently it has been fitted with the "B" side towards the glass.

Ta,

DaveG

Roof edging.jpg

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19 hours ago, daveg said:

Thanks for your help folks.

One, hopefully the last question, what is the current way round for the seal between the hood frame and the window glass?

Currently it has been fitted with the "B" side towards the glass.

Ta,

DaveG

Roof edging.jpg

Dave

That's the way I fitted mine.

Regards

Gary

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Thanks Gary, I'll leave them as is.

Thanks Pete, replacing the door seal with DX73 worked a treat and not having to slam the doors shut is wonderful.

Dave

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