Oil leaks - Engine Front sealing block

[pageste]

Hi,

Im just getting my 13/60 ready for its first MOT in a long long time, I did the timing and tweaked the Carb and I was planning on giving it an oil change however.

Im a bit disappointed by how much oil is already seeping from the front of the engine. I know it is fitted with the Triumph throughput system where you put it in the top and it comes out the bottom but its more than a drip. On inspection it seems to be the usual culprit, stripped threads on the Sump bolts into the sealing block.

Ive done a search but Im still unclear how hard this would be to change in situ ? Are the replacement alloy sealing blocks worth the money and are they standard for all the 4 cylinder engines ? Also I read something about wooden spacers - or did I dream that bit.

The oil that is in the engine is very thin, Ive bought some decent 20/40 so that may be less leaky but I will need to address this at some time just trying to gauge how much of a job.

 

 

 

As usual all asistance gratefuly received

 

Steve

[Pete Lewis]

stripped threads in the alloy block are down to wrong(too long) bolts fitted , or over tighend,  some down to its been on and off too many times 

 

the replacement from club shop are steel and providing you have the right length bolts wont ever strip out.

 

you can often reclaim in situ a stripped thread by tapping M8 and use a metric bolt 

 

timing cover bolts have the same problem as the sump also can happen at the rear main housing, but front is the usual culprit

 

the wooden block are a thin shaped insert to fill the gap between the front main cap and the crankcase

these can be fitted with a sealant  but they are to swell with oil soak so excess sealer may make things worse,  best to use a semi hardening like loctite 574     this sealer solved all our production oil leaks better than many we tried

 

so you can reclaim without removing the sump, but to replace block or seal wooden wedges its sump off

that can be done engine in, sometimes a bit of a fiddle ,, worse on a 6 pot ...big fiddle 

 

check the engine breather is clear eg,  collapsed hoses then oil will pressure out of everywhere it can

[Mjit]

Don't bother with a replacement alloy block, go for one of the steel ones.

 

The wooden spacers go in to slots in the ends of the block and swell when they absorb oil producing an oil-tight seal.

 

Based on a Spitfire the job can be done engine-in but it's hardly the most fun you can have with your overalls on.  In addition to the book steps:

1. Start by removing the sump plug a say or 2 before - the more little drips of oil come out the fewer will land on your face!

2. After you've removed the 2 screws holding the block to the block inside the sump cover it should be free - but you'll be fighting at least it being a firm fit and maybe loads of sealing gunk.

3. In my experience the wooden wedges won't be.  They will be wood but just blocks, not wedges so you'll need a sharp chisle to give them a taper and remove excess width in order to get them started.  You then need to hammer them home - with almost no room to swing a hammer at them.

4. Back to the sharp chisle to trim them flush with the block - and it needs to be sharp or you'll just start pulling them back out.

[pageste]

Thanks guys, I must admit I hadnt seen the sealing block in the club shop. I will give them a ring.

 

I may as well try and do it properly, I havent had much success rethreading specially if I am trying to

 

do it lying on my back.

[Pete Lewis]

Add stiff knees and varifocals makes it even more exciting

 

you may need to unclamp the steering rack or raise the engine a little to drop the sump past the oil, pump

 

if you do raise the engine keep watch hose stretch and fan contact.

 

Bolts should be no longer than 5/8" into the block,

as if mixed with some timing cover bolts are 7/8" these will bottom out

 

 

Pete

[Clive]

No reason you can't helicoil the block, and that should be possible without removing the sump. A helicoil will be plenety strong enough.

 

Or my "bodge" was to drill and tap 10mm, that won't strip easily. I reduced the bolt head size, but thinking about it a cap head setscrew would be ideal. means no confusion about which bolts should be used there too...

[juppy]

Also you mention 20/40 for the oil viscosity, it should be 20/50.

[pageste]

Thanks everyone , Pete was right about varifocals hence the typo about 20/40 instead of 20/50. Between the fingers the stuff that's in there is more like olive oil
but the car hasn't been on the road for......ahem .... a long time.
 
I am going to get one of the steel sealing blocks from the club and try to do it properly, a few weeks delay in the scheme of things.

[pageste]

For no other reason than I finally got it out the garage I attach a photo, after being taken off the road in 1992 for some tidying up I ended up

moving house twice and having 2 kids. Ive finally got my priorities right and Im finishing it off.

 

I just cant take the chance of leaving an oil trace on the road or the wife might be able to follow me and drag me back to cut the lawn or something

 

[scooter]

Loctite RTV and Permaseal will keep even a Triumph engine dry.