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heater valve


Joachim Moeller
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The banjo in the end is the main culprit for shearing off not so much the heater valve

 

if you can do it hot the hole always expands more then the fitting , thats not easy to word it quite right

 

or it will get twisted into thread drift Ha !

 

Pete

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update.

I've managed to get the old valve out of the manifold with the help of WD40 and some heat as suggested. Next chapter is that the new valve wouldn't go in as the old valve has sort of destroyed the thread. Does anybody know what thread we have here? It looks like 5/8" UNF. If that's the case I already have a tap (I've bought it for the crank bolt where the same had happened).

Cheers Joachim

post-49-0-53493300-1465302514_thumb.jpgpost-49-0-89246700-1465302446_thumb.jpg

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Hi Richard and thank you for your threads file. I'm aware of the SAE bolt system but there are different pitches if it comes to UNF screws and for example -well - plumbing threads. If I compare the thread of the new valve to the thread of the tap in the picture there is a small difference between the flanges of the threads. And (as the thread is only about 1/2" long) I count on that lenght almost 9 pitches on the tap but a little bit more than the 9 pitches on the valve (if this makes sense). In the end it has to be secure and (water-)tight. I have cleaned and slotted the thread of the old valve and will try to screw that back in tomorrow to (hopefully) clean up the thread in the manifold... Perhaps this will do for the new valve to fit.

Cheers Joachim

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Update (if anybody is interested). Thread is definitely not 5/8" - 18 UNF. I've tried (and it failed). Slotted thread of the old valve didn't work. I've searched the net and came across a file that suggests that the thread is a BSP thread. I've ordered an appropriate BSP tap today and I will see...

Cheers Joachim

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Hello Joachim.

 

Any information that members / forum users are prepared to share with others is always welcome; especially when specific research has been done to provide relevant details.

 

Keep "us" in the loop as all updates will be informative and of future use. 

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

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FIXED!

The thread is 3/8 x 19 BSP - British Standard Pipe (or BSPP but NOT BSPT). It's a thread for plumbing applications - so, as it's for the heater valve in the cooling system this even makes sense. After re cutting it was easy to install the new valve using some sealing tape. Now that the leaking valve was fixed I was able to let the engine run for more than a few seconds (first time in about two decades). Only to find out that the ignition warning light doesn't extinguish... As the control box and the dynamo are among the few things I haven't touched yet they now get the attention they deserve. So perhaps see you in the Electrical System section soon!

 

Cheers all

Joachim

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post-49-0-13235000-1465904574_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Richard,

 

I've thought about an upgrade when I was suspecting the dynamo to be faulty. But all tests proved the dynamo to be in top condition. So I return to my initial plan to get the car restored to the most original and standart condition I can achieve. When (if ever) I am able to drive the GT6 (for the first time - I never did as it was non-runner-project when I bought it) I might decide on upgrades.

 

Best wishes

 

Joachim

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  • 2 weeks later...

 When (if ever) I am able to drive the GT6 (for the first time - I never did as it was non-runner-project when I bought it) I might decide on upgrades.

 

 

 

A very sensible approach - a lot of owners upgrade things unnecessarily without ever having experienced the original systems, and just end up wasting money for little or no improvement.

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