Joachim Moeller Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Cheers all! I've finally got my GT6 MkI engine running but now the heater valve is leaking. Are there any pitfalls when changing the valve? Thanks Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Hi joachim Changed mine a while back (Smiths Heater). Straightforward as I remember. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Hi Dave there are rumours that you risk to break the inlet manifold when trying to unscrew the valve. So I thought it might be wise to ask... Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Changed mine a year ago. Good idea to use some wd a couple of days before on the thread. Mine came out without any damage to the manifold Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 The banjo in the end is the main culprit for shearing off not so much the heater valve if you can do it hot the hole always expands more then the fitting , thats not easy to word it quite right or it will get twisted into thread drift Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Hi Sorry, Mine was a Vitesse. Just hoses. Assumed it would be the same arrangement. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted May 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 No problem Dave, GT6 MkI has the valve on top of the inlet manifold. I will give it a try as soon as I receive the replacement valve. Thanks Aidan and Pete - I will try both. Cheers Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Hi Don't know if the GT6 H.V is same as the one for the Vitesse Smiths one. The small engineering company who makes them, who I bought mine off, said that leaving them in the open position when car not in use, makes them last longer. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Hi Dave, worth a try anyway. Cheers Joachim (I'm hoping to find some time to get it fixed this week) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Update. I've managed to get the old valve out of the manifold with the help of WD40 and some heat as suggested. Next chapter is that the new valve wouldn't go in as the old valve has sort of destroyed the thread. Does anybody know what thread we have here? It looks like 5/8" UNF. If that's the case I already have a tap (I've bought it for the crank bolt where the same had happened). Cheers Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hello. The following attached document may assist you. Regards. Richard. THREADS.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hi Richard and thank you for your threads file. I'm aware of the SAE bolt system but there are different pitches if it comes to UNF screws and for example -well - plumbing threads. If I compare the thread of the new valve to the thread of the tap in the picture there is a small difference between the flanges of the threads. And (as the thread is only about 1/2" long) I count on that lenght almost 9 pitches on the tap but a little bit more than the 9 pitches on the valve (if this makes sense). In the end it has to be secure and (water-)tight. I have cleaned and slotted the thread of the old valve and will try to screw that back in tomorrow to (hopefully) clean up the thread in the manifold... Perhaps this will do for the new valve to fit. Cheers Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted June 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Update (if anybody is interested). Thread is definitely not 5/8" - 18 UNF. I've tried (and it failed). Slotted thread of the old valve didn't work. I've searched the net and came across a file that suggests that the thread is a BSP thread. I've ordered an appropriate BSP tap today and I will see... Cheers Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Hello Joachim. Any information that members / forum users are prepared to share with others is always welcome; especially when specific research has been done to provide relevant details. Keep "us" in the loop as all updates will be informative and of future use. Good luck. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted June 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 FIXED! The thread is 3/8 x 19 BSP - British Standard Pipe (or BSPP but NOT BSPT). It's a thread for plumbing applications - so, as it's for the heater valve in the cooling system this even makes sense. After re cutting it was easy to install the new valve using some sealing tape. Now that the leaking valve was fixed I was able to let the engine run for more than a few seconds (first time in about two decades). Only to find out that the ignition warning light doesn't extinguish... As the control box and the dynamo are among the few things I haven't touched yet they now get the attention they deserve. So perhaps see you in the Electrical System section soon! Cheers all Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Excellent result Joachim and the photo does the repair justice !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 ... it was a faulty control box in the end! Cheers Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Are you sticking with the standard control box set-up (original) or looking to upgrade ?? Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim Moeller Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Hi Richard, I've thought about an upgrade when I was suspecting the dynamo to be faulty. But all tests proved the dynamo to be in top condition. So I return to my initial plan to get the car restored to the most original and standart condition I can achieve. When (if ever) I am able to drive the GT6 (for the first time - I never did as it was non-runner-project when I bought it) I might decide on upgrades. Best wishes Joachim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 When (if ever) I am able to drive the GT6 (for the first time - I never did as it was non-runner-project when I bought it) I might decide on upgrades. A very sensible approach - a lot of owners upgrade things unnecessarily without ever having experienced the original systems, and just end up wasting money for little or no improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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