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Name the gearbox


NevSpit

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Hi all, after a bit of guidance from the brains of TSSC.

 

The clutch on my 1971 MKIV Spitfire decided to give in when I was out at the  weekend (driving around quite happily until i went to put it in reverse to park and cccrrrunnch. There is pressure on the pedal when depressed) so currently stripping interior to get the gearbox out. I therefore want to order a new clutch for the weekend but am not sure what one to order. The engine is actually a DH prefix but the gearbox appears to start with a 'G' see attached photo so not sure what that belongs too - cant be a 948cc Herald can it? If it helps it is a 3 rail box with D type overdrive. 

 

Any ideas on what box i actually have so i can order the right clutch?

 

All help gratefully received thank you.

 

Paul.post-230-0-20772000-1465856686_thumb.jpg

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If it is a 3 rail it is 99.99% going to be a std herald/spit clutch (ie not the 1500 one with fine splines)

 

The gearbox number doesn't really matter.

 

the tiny tiny doubt is if it has had a close ratio rebuild (or similar) at some point. when the input shaft may have been swapped, but you can't tell until the box is off the car. Besides it is EXTREMELY remote possibility!

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Thanks guys, have spoken to Garth and will order up the standard Herald / Spit one.

 

Pete - it is 4 synchro and yes the G looks like an over stamp to me. I read somewhere that Triumph reconditioned ones were prefixed GR so wondered if that was what this was. Sometimes i look at it and think i can see a R after the G but not the same size. Probably my eyes playing tricks on me. Will post some more pics once i have heaved it out at some point in the future - that should be fun.

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Well i have now manoeuvred the gearbox out of the way, not such a bad job with a helper and took the clutch out. Now i am no expert but i think this could be why the clutch wasn't working. Whilst i can understand the spring breaking with fatigue i was surprised it escaped its housing. Just waiting for the replacement to turn up now.

 

 

post-230-0-50740800-1466261828_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Pete will take a look at the back plate when I next get in the garage.

 

When you mention it not being aligned though how can that happen as the bell housing seemed pretty well clamped up to the back plate so not sure where it can misalign.

 

I swapped over the release bearing last night as the original was a little noisy when it spun round although it did so freely. The replacement one revolves smoothly with no noises or rubbing but does not 'spin' like the old one did. Is that correct and just a symptom of the old one wearing out?

 

Cheers.

 

Paul.

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With a life time of gearbox on off the back plate gets bent, dowels get lost all contributes to the plate not being perfectly flat. You may need to remove it and place it on a flat surface to check it out

a wornout flywheel spigot can do similar damage

 

the bearing has a seal in it this would make a new one seem a bit dead when trying to spin it

 

pete

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  • 3 months later...

I'm a bit late on the scene, but I concur with Pete. My Spitfire broke several clutches after I replaced the gearbox. Using the bellhousing bolts to pull the box up against the block pulled the backplate bent it sufficient to misalign the two.

It was only when I laid the backplate on a flat slab that the distortion obvious....

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And as a good tip to add to this sage advice, that piece of old glass that came from the greenhouse or that window you took out, which has been sitting behind the shed for years makes a great flat, true surface to check things against, because of the way the float glass process works, Failing that, a good straight edge and a strong light behind it.

 

One of the drawbacks of engines with flat, bendy M/S back plates, instead of a good sturdy casting like Volvos...

 

Regards

 

Steve

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Canley do a nice lightweight alloy one for some more £££s

 

fitted one to the Vit6 as the old plate  was totally crocked   from  50 years of previous abuse and levering then hanging gearboxes on /off.

 

always use two long studs in the top  as a guide ,and use a bit of wood as a gauge to 'sight'   the gap between engine and geabox is parallel  , most take a glimpse and rely on major shove and push , hang it for a while and repeat the struggle when if aligned ok it just slides easily peasey  

same applies with removal ,  if you need tyre levers in the hsg,  you bend the plate 

 

Pete

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This happened to me back in '91. Got my Spit back from the Leyland main dealer with a Gold Steal (sorry!) Gold SEAL engine, replaced under warranty. (The first Gold Seal had been drinking a pint of oil every 100 miles.) But the clutch now had terrible judder! "Oh, you sometimes get that with inline engine & g'box" said the head mechanic "Nothing I can do." Anyway, a year later when I stripped down this second engine (burnt exhaust valve - it's a Gold Seal remember?) I discovered the "Pringle" shaped back plate. The incompetent main dealer bar stewards had just tightened up the bell housing until it popped the clutch into place.

 

Fortunately my mate in our company's model shop said he could fix it. He put the back plate through sheet metal rollers several times, backing off the rollers slightly, and turning the backplate over and rotating 90' each time. Job's a good'un. One backplate restored to flatness!

 

Cheers, Richard

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