Henry Boler Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Well, I'll have a look at the camber this weekend anyway as I thing it is positive at the moment. And extra shims will add weight to the front end . Are there any views on the Canley Spring option at all? Henry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Also, shorter springs are easier to adjust later with spacers, long ones aren't... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 All the cars really should be running 1 - 1.5 neg camber on frunts Unlless that is, ye want to wear the ootside edges off, as the wheels set at 1-2 deg Positive, go to aboot 3-5 degs Positive when wheels turned As JD says, that was for olde tyres butt, for some strange reason, they still set the last Spitty ones positive too. 400lbers - 1 inch compressionee for 400 lb but ont car, at an inclination, as the spring is, its a diff ball game poundage goes well down Clives OK,ish 480 on a Spitty, will be OK for a GT, as its got moer weight owa frunt wheels M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Looks like it's all pretty well confirmed then! I've no idea what I did with all the spare shims, gotta keep hunting. Car is definitely on positive front camber though at the moment. Right old dark art this suspension malarky! H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Suspension tuning is indeed an art, but not dark! It's a continual compromise, because you change something for the better and something else gets worse. But be assured that Triumph suspension, the front at least, is the best there is, as it offers so much in adjustment! The back is a different story! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 I agree with John on the front suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 I guess it's just a case of putting some decent time to it! Getting very close now with the rear suspension. The latest revision on the brackets is working very nicely now, even with a full car and heavy people!! Also, Markus has very kindly sent me a set of front springs he had spare to try out and see what the results are like, so I'm looking forward to doing that! Henry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Okay, so the springs Markus sent are now fitted. They are much shorter than the ones I took out, I had to fit spacers to get them to work and they don't require spring compressors like the others do for installation. Having said that, Markus reckons they are 500 lb springs, they are perfectly comfortable to drive with, the car looks perfect now height-wise, the front matches the rear ride height. It drives fine, no fouling on anything anywhere and the full lock seems to work better, steering is easier at full lock. Need to sort the tracking now though as she is a little unstable. I would post a photo, but apparently the forum is having a bad day... Henry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 nice to hear of a good result happy driving Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Please excuse how filthy and neglected she is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Good to see ye think its OK,, seems I was right,!!! to me, car looks like it could go a inch lower on frunt as at speed, it will rise up due to under flow of air, As for camber, mek yer self one of thee,s thingys, v easy t,doo, , just get a block of Ply board,about 10 mm thick, and have it cut to the wheel rim lip size. then, cut a wee groove into the top for the nylon string to fit into then wid a protractor, put on a scale of uto 3 or 4 degs either side then, extend the lines with a ruler to the bottom, and here, put on the lines that the sting wid a weight on end will read off against Only need a 1/4 inch line at bottom, , and ontop of that, put on yer numbers or figs this wee thingy has served me well for yers, note this been modded for 15 inch wheels, as its got an extended bit on one side M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Yeah, it could go lower, it's funny as I expected the car to drop on the floor when I lowered it down onto the new springs! I like the idea of the camber setting board! Quirky! Just got to find somewhere level to do it! Henry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 most camber testing equipment will tell you if you cant get the floor quite level measure the sum total of both sides and halve it. if that helps Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Good to hear the replacement spring have solved the problem. I agree with Pete re the camber. From past experience try three shims all around to start with. dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 I will go on another shim hunt toonight then and see if I have more luck than last time! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Good to hear the replacement spring have solved the problem. I agree with Pete re the camber. From past experience try three shims all around to start with. dave my Vitesse has one shim,each wishbone/chassis bracket on off side and tyre wear is normal. Nearside has two and is wearing outer edge of tyre more. also the top outer edge of this tyre is about 1/2" prouder to the wheel arch than tother (could be different body alignment, chassis twist, though nothing visually wrong on chassis and front and rear sections of main rails are showing level to each other . Haven't done camber check yet, but going off tyre wear I guess I could fit yet more shims to off side to correct any excessive positive camber, though, this seems excessive? Car runs in a straight line. Any help great would be great please. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 If you want to become an instant expert you could do no better than getting a Courier CD (from Club Shop) and reading the very interesting series by Carl Heinlein in Courier 158 (Aug 1993), 159 (Sep 1993) and 160 (Oct 1992). Worth a read. C. See thread http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/468-getting-the-tracking-done/?hl=alignment&do=findComment&comment=3461 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry Boler Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Sounds like a good idea to me! I spent hours turning the workshop upside down and cannot find the shims I was after. However... I found these... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Yip, thats them Enry Aim for 1.5 degs neg wid yer stiffer springs, camber wont change as much on bump as sprigs will stop it in bump moer than a softer,n M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Questionee, my Vitesse has one shim,each wishbone/chassis bracket on off side and tyre wear is normal. Nearside has two and is wearing outer edge of tyre more. Anser............If ye got unequal shims, then good chance ye got unequal camber wearing outer edge, this could be tracking issue, caused by rack no being centralised, this meks the adjustable track arms diff lenths, so wheels turn at diff angles also, effects of bump steer will come into play on one side moer than other, check to see if same amount of threads are on each side Questionee, also the top outer edge of this tyre is about 1/2" prouder to the wheel arch than tother (could be different body alignment, chassis twist, though nothing visually wrong on chassis and front and rear sections of main rails are showing level to each other .Anser .............. this could be body alighment, IE body off set to one side a wee bit also, camber, really need t,chack yer camber sett,ns. Questionee, Haven't done camber check yet, but going off tyre wear I guess I could fit yet more shims to off side to correct any excessive positive camber, though, this seems excessive? Anse ..............Positive camber will wear yer outer edges away , period esp if yer drivin wid any sort of spirited driving,!!! no only that, butt yer wheels, { due to susp design } will gain moer + Positive camber as yer wheels turn into a corner Go turn yer wheels to 1/2 to 3/4 full lock, look at the outer wheel, its gon weel into mega positive territory noo aint it, no only that, but the set up aint got proper Ackerman , this shows on yer outer wheel gettin ..Pushed sideways, as yer cars going forads, Go try an push yer car wid full lock on, see if it moves forads easy. Then watch someone try an move yer car forads on full lock, whilst under power. whilst yer watching outer wheel, Wots happening !!!! It will go straight if trackings OKish, butt, remember this, If one wheel is oot, then yer car will pull t,one side Butt, yer steering wheel counters this, an both wheels end up straitgh ahead,ish this is akin to wot was said above aboot rack no central As wen yer steerings turned, yer wheels turn at diff angles, follow,!!! ye really need t,get yer car set up, and wen ye doo, mek sure its LOADED up, as tracking, camber settins, wid an wid oot load do vary so set it wid oot loaded, then yer settings wen loaded will be no good, Most garages will set the tracking / camber wrong, thru being ignorant of suspensionee movements.!!! And, wen its set up, then not to OE specs,unless yer a die in the heart Purist type,!!! M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 29, 2017 Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 1.5 negative is good start point, but everyones driving style is different. EG Under steer > more negative. OR, measure tread temperature asap after a spirited drive (stop, leap out and measure) OR, longer term, measure tread wear. The objective is to get the whole width of the tread working, not just the edges. But evertything in suspension is relative. Pressure, toe, ARB stiffness are all adjustable too. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 29, 2017 Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 it takes a lot of miles to get wrong camber to wear a tyre where as tracking will scrub the edges off very much quicker and is the main error that destroys tyre life quickly the track rods from the centre of the sperical to the centre of the TRE is shown as 221.36mm 8.715" so theres some 'wheres the centre' guesswork here hidden under the gaitor, if you tape measure from the spherical back stop (inside the gaitor) then add 1.42" but both rods should be same length. if you turn the outer wheel to 20deg in the inner wheel should produce the same angle ie theres no toe out on turns they stay parallel up to 20deg then ackerman creeps in. have a look at http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/2009-toe-in-the-easy-way/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 My mk3 was also too high at the front but fitting gaz shockers all round (all adjustable firmness, front also for height) solved this. Front near to lowest setting was perfect, although might up them a bit as I exit my drive over a hump that now just scrapes an exhaust clamp! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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