Kevin.payne.15 Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 Guys Whilst the Haynes only has a section on the sump removal whilst the engine is out of the car, is it possible to remove the sump with the engine still in place? Thanks in advance Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 yes it can be a fiddle probably need to drop the rack /push it forwards , lift the engine a fair bit, watch out for hose stretching the sump will come off but has to clear the oil pump tubes this can be a fiddle and cursing few minutes and then it pops off just when youve given up the pan has to clear below the rear engine plate to enable rearwards extraction if there is a splash gauze in the pan its hard, on one i undid the Oil pump screws through the gap , dropped it in the sump and thats easy had to remove the splash gauze to get it back together ,, not all have this inside. depends on age. then theres plain suction tubes and ones with filter attached just to hinder the frustarations but yes its certainly do able Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 I've done it twice. Didn't need to move the rack. Undo the driver's side engine mount, jack up the engine, drivers side and you should be able to wiggle it out. More importantly, lift the bonnet! There's not much clearance between the rocker cover and the power bulge and you won't notice you're pushing into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 Doug, i now have this awful vision of your feet sticking out from under the car sorry thats an assumption Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 You're just envious of my power bulge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 dont tell the council or your rates go up this really helps kevin, he will begin to think we're all nuts on here but you need 'sense of silly' to work on triumphs out in the garage............they listen to you....... you know Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.payne.15 Posted May 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 Guys I've had a peep under the sump and what do you suggest to jack up on. Not much other that the fan and timing ring? Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 I made a wooden stand to locate on the pulley, with a leg to fit inbetween the timing cover so it cant jump out raise with a trolley jack The engine mounts sit as a vee you may need to unbolt from the block bracket to allow lift As the ears on the mounts get stuck behind the flanges on the turrets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.payne.15 Posted May 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 Ok thanks I'll have a go Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 21, 2017 Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 Trying not be smutty here. Is it ok to jack under the sump with flat, sturdy wood to spread the load. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 21, 2017 Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 Yes Dave thats fine but tends to get in the way if you want the sump off you need some other idea to support the lump, pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.payne.15 Posted May 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 Managed it but it's a struggle and took far longer than hoped. Given that I've the head off next time I'll lift the engine out as I think it would be quicker Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 Well done , can we ask why you need it off?? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 Surprised to hear that Kevin but if you have the engine lifting kit I suppose it would be quicker. In my case I don't intend to do much more crawling under the car so I guess I'm with you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.payne.15 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 Pete. Sorry for the delay. Been traveling on business and life getting in the way. It's all part of the head skim saga that has been in several links on the site in recent months......yes it has been going on that long We assembled the head after a skim but didn't get shorter push rods and had a valve touch a piston. Thankfully I didn't try and turn over on the starter so didn't think I had damaged anything but when shorter rods fitted and engine started I had low compression on one cylinder and whilst I checked the head for leaks I couldn't really find any so decided to take a piston out to see if I had lost a ring or anything ......nope So all back together after having valves recut again ( see the link on valves and groves by me ) and now got the front carb leaking petrol from its bum. Another set of needle valves ordered from burlen ( so much cheaper that rimmer ) and also a fuel pressure regulator to help Then I might get the car on the road this year Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 I can almost hear it running Was there not enough tappet screw length to accomodate a skim ?? With a 0.010" tappet gap its been a bit of a slog, let us know it all works out pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.payne.15 Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 No. Tappet gap was at very best marginal on the first few then failed on the next couple. Gap yes but not 0.01 and my fear was that with the further head bolt down after 500 miles then I would have run out of range completely Chris wittor was the only person to have some 8.00 push rods. What o don't understand is how the standard ones work on conventional engines because all I've effectively done is convert a 2000 to a GT6. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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