Jump to content

Gt6 Sump removal whilst engine is still in the car


Kevin.payne.15
 Share

Recommended Posts

yes it can be a fiddle 

probably need to drop the rack /push it forwards , 

lift the engine a fair bit,  watch out for hose stretching

the sump will come off but has to clear the oil pump tubes 

this can be a fiddle and cursing few minutes and then it pops off just when youve given up

the pan has to clear below the rear engine plate to enable rearwards extraction

 

if there is a splash gauze in the pan its hard, on one i undid the Oil pump screws through the gap , dropped it in the sump and thats easy

 

had to remove the splash gauze to get it back together ,, not all have this inside.  depends on age. then theres plain suction tubes and ones with filter attached  just to hinder the frustarations

but yes its certainly  do able

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've done it twice. Didn't need to move the rack. Undo the driver's side engine mount, jack up the engine, drivers side and you should be able to wiggle it out.  

 

More importantly, lift the bonnet!  There's not much clearance between the rocker cover and the power bulge and you won't notice you're pushing into it.   :o 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dont tell the council or your rates go up 

 

this really helps kevin,  he will begin to think we're all nuts on here

 

 

but you need 'sense of silly' to work on triumphs    out in the garage............they listen to you....... you know 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made a wooden stand to locate on the pulley, with a leg to fit inbetween the timing cover so it cant jump out raise with a trolley jack

 

The engine mounts sit as a vee you may need to unbolt from the block bracket to allow lift

As the ears on the mounts get stuck behind the flanges on the turrets

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Pete. Sorry for the delay. Been traveling on business and life getting in the way. It's all part of the head skim saga that has been in several links on the site in recent months......yes it has been going on that long

 

We assembled the head after a skim but didn't get shorter push rods and had a valve touch a piston. Thankfully I didn't try and turn over on the starter so didn't think I had damaged anything but when shorter rods fitted and engine started I had low compression on one cylinder and whilst I checked the head for leaks I couldn't really find any so decided to take a piston out to see if I had lost a ring or anything ......nope

 

So all back together after having valves recut again ( see the link on valves and groves by me ) and now got the front carb leaking petrol from its bum. Another set of needle valves ordered from burlen ( so much cheaper that rimmer ) and also a fuel pressure regulator to help

 

Then I might get the car on the road this year

 

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No. Tappet gap was at very best marginal on the first few then failed on the next couple. Gap yes but not 0.01 and my fear was that with the further head bolt down after 500 miles then I would have run out of range completely

 

Chris wittor was the only person to have some 8.00 push rods. What o don't understand is how the standard ones work on conventional engines because all I've effectively done is convert a 2000 to a GT6.

 

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...