Carb needle question - amongst others!

[Anglefire]

Thanks Richard

Assuming the hs4 southern carbs have in stock are the right sort - then they are a similar price. 

Don’t know about burlems - I’ll give them a call tomorrow. 

It’s a very difficult to know the best course of action. If Money is no object, then it’s easy. But as most people money is relevant. 

[Guest]

Mark.

Have you carried out an overhaul on the carbs with the relevant overhaul kit - my gut feeling is you probably have. If not, then that may be an option.

I agree, it's an expensive business.

Regards.

Richard,

[Anglefire]

I did rebuild the carbs on the old engine - but didn't rebush as I don't have the right gear for that - and its things like the throttle return springs have had to be assisted (like earlier ones did) and the choke sticks as I converted to non-waxstat.

The ones on the engine now all worked better in respect that the throttles sprang back nicely and the choke is smooth - hence I put them on - but having spent a bit a time looking at them, I can feel some spindle movement - the floats clearly need something doing to them and they are waxstats - which may or may not have had the penny trick done.

I'm very much in two minds. Hang the expense and get some properly refurbed carbs - or make do with my old pair. 

If I do get a new set, they will fit whatever needles I want (Well G&L will!) - so I'd get them to fit something like an AAR or AAQ which looks on the graphs to different enough to the ones I got from Roger to give some sensible options.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello Mark

                    My offer is still open I could post you the cab,s and I think they should be close to what you need as my engine about the same spec just the Triumph 270 deg camshaft

and I was running Megajolt.

I will give them the once over tomorrow if you want to try them?

Roger

[Anglefire]

Hi Roger

I'd read your earlier post and the bit about them being knackered - but sort of skipped the next bit as you would end up with two sets of rubbish carbs - but it would be very kind if we could do the swap if possible.

Mark

[rogerguzzi]

2 hours ago, Anglefire said:

Hi Roger

I'd read your earlier post and the bit about them being knackered - but sort of skipped the next bit as you would end up with two sets of rubbish carbs - but it would be very kind if we could do the swap if possible.

Mark

Hello  Mark

                     I will give them the once over and if they look ok (which they should) I will post them to you

Roger

[Anglefire]

Roger's wife very kindly dropped off his "old" carbs today and I tinkered and swapped the carbs over - they feel much much better than either of mine - but the proof will be in the running!

I just hope they cure my poor running problem - if they don't I'll have to start looking elsewhere. 

[Pete Lewis]

there are some really crap condensers about giving all manner of percular running 

there were reports in PC that they look ok but have no foil inside to maintain the 'buffer' 

like 2ft instead of 9ft    ive had two locals with what the heck is going on here  problems all have been condenser failures 

in the old days if a condenser failed it would idle ok but any throttle gave loads of stray sparks serious misses  and backfires 

the current ones work fine for a short run then turn horrible ,almost as if temperature plays a part in the opertaion, 

if you look up on dizzy doctor he mentions orange lwired ones failing but many replacement are orange, we cut one up but it had long lengths of foil but didnt work

just some rabblings 

Pete

[Anglefire]

I will look at my condenser as although it revs nice stood still, it doesn't under load - though as it is a "new" dizzy, I would hope that the Dizzy Doctor would put quality stuff in!

Anyway, I've fitted the final petrol feed lines to the carbs - I forgot to fit the one from the rear carb to the front carb - so I fitted the one that came off my old engine as its a shiney one and matches the carbs better.

And I started the car - as expected the oil light took a bit of time to go out - but not too bad and the rattle did go quite quickly - hopefully when I start it again at the weekend it will be much shorter! 

I did turn it over for a few seconds with no choke to at least start the oiling process and fill the bowls with fuel - I then found a leak from one of the joints on the front carb where the metal pipe changes to rubber - the spring clip turned out to be not quite tight enough and the metal pipe not pushed in quite enough (It should have been, but not quite it would seem!) Put a jubilee clip on as I couldn't find another hose clip in my box of many - other sides both smaller and bigger, but not the right one - Typical!

Andway, with the only adjustments made to the carbs to make sure the throttle closes properly and the choke pulls - its starts and runs. Probably runs even nicer now than before - but didn't run it too long as although it was warmer than last night it wasn't like a summers day!

But I achieved what I wanted to do!

[Pete Lewis]

Dizzy doc should be an ok one, altough  he did send me a 4 cyl cap for the 2000

Soon corrected but got me puzzled for a day .

Idles but allover the place on throttling is like condenser failing or loose connections in the points zone

But play with the carbs , set to the basic 2 to 3 turns down from bridge height it should be able to be a runner .

Pete

[Anglefire]

It runs now Pete with adjustments as per It was on Rogers car!  I will check the balance obviously and the mixture - but I’m hoping that I can get it to drive nice as well as idle sweet. 

[rogerguzzi]

17 minutes ago, Anglefire said:

It runs now Pete with adjustments as per It was on Rogers car!  I will check the balance obviously and the mixture - but I’m hoping that I can get it to drive nice as well as idle sweet. 

Hello Mark

                   Is your petrol pump old or new?

It may be a fueling problem as those carbs should be ok (they took me and the Memsahib all around  Spain and Italy plus a few trips to Spa etc)

I am starting to worry that you did not get your cam timing right!

If you got it timed early I think it would pull low down but run out of puff as revs rise!

just a thought!

Roger

[Anglefire]

Roger. That is one thought that I have sadly. I hope not as it’s not a simple job - well it’s simple but lots to take off again.  

I did check the timing of the cam a couple of times and it did check out. But if these carbs don’t “work” then I’ll check it again. I know the tdc mark on the pulley matched up so it’s not hard to work out the btdc for the cam to be at tdc on the no1 inlet valve. 

It doesn’t pull low down either - 2000rpm and it’s not happy. I’ll find out soon enough. 

[Anglefire]

Oh fuel pump is new. And seems to work well - it filled the carb bowls quick enough and was leaking from the pipes well enough today. Unless the pressure is too high of course. 

[Anglefire]

I do have a pressure gauge which I think works on fuel too. 

[Guest]

Hello Mark.

Your mechanical fuel pump will be fine for your induction needs and the fact that it is new so much the better; especially if you are happy with its performance - it is only with larger size carbs or Weber's where the mechanical fuel pump (if inappropriate to the carbs requirements) can have issues - basically not delivering sufficient at high power needs.

Just to add to your library of carb conditioners, I found this company but have no knowledge of their craftwork: Classic Fuel Systems - http://www.classicfuelsystems.co.uk/

If you are going to Stoneleigh, I may well see you.

Best wishes.

Richard.

[Anglefire]

Hi Richard - their prices are a lot different to the others. Wonder if its the north south divide? 

My only question on the fuel pump was whether it was delivering too much pressure - but given its the same basic design as the original then that's not likely.

[Anglefire]

On 08/02/2018 at 9:16 PM, rogerguzzi said:

I am starting to worry that you did not get your cam timing right!

I couldn't wait until tomorrow - so popped into the garage tonight to see if I could check the cam timing - I did it by marking the pulley at 110' and then rotated the engine until that marked up with TDC - and no1 rocket looked to be at the top - I say looked, because in the process of doing this, I had the dizzy cap off and as the pulley past TDC I thought I'd just check the points gap - and it was bugger all of sweet FA  - Now I'm sure I checked that before I put the dizzy in - but can't have. 

That's not going to help is it?

[rogerguzzi]

1 hour ago, Anglefire said:

I couldn't wait until tomorrow - so popped into the garage tonight to see if I could check the cam timing - I did it by marking the pulley at 110' and then rotated the engine until that marked up with TDC - and no1 rocket looked to be at the top - I say looked, because in the process of doing this, I had the dizzy cap off and as the pulley past TDC I thought I'd just check the points gap - and it was bugger all of sweet FA  - Now I'm sure I checked that before I put the dizzy in - but can't have. 

That's not going to help is it?

Hello Mark

                   No1 Rocket? now there's a change?

I think you are falling into the trap of looking for all the complicated things when there is equivalent of no fuel in the tank!

I think it is back to basics and assume nothing!

Roger

ps still stretches the brain and we have ALL been there!

[Anglefire]

Hi Roger,

I do hope so! I really hope it's not cam timing - I did follow the instructions and checked TDC first and checked the TDC of the cam with a dial gauge etc And I checked it again before fitting the radiator etc. It might be a degre out - but can't see it being much more than that (Tooth is about that from memory?) The Duplex chain doesn't have the option of reversing the large sprocket either as its not symmetrical.

And it's now Peeing down so as they say Rain Stops play  

[Anglefire]

Hi Roger, et al,

I’ve not properly checked the cam timing again yet - its wet and have been doing calcs on my home heating system as I have fitted a new pump and want to rebalance the system (I bought a state of the arts variable speed pump and Bluetooth dongle which allows each rad to be easily set to the right volume for the room. ) 

anyway, I have been doing some more research and even if my cam timing is out it should still run - so I think my issue is elsewhere and is either carbs (hopefully sorted) or ignition. I hope by getting the points right now, that is also sorted, though other basic components like condenser haven’t been checked (how in reality do you?)  - I hope tomorrow is dry for an hour or so ?

by basis for this conclusion is from this. 

 

Which comes from this site http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm#gearing

[Pete Lewis]

If you are losing points gap have you given the diizzy cam spindlema good shove , if the top bush is worn out the spindle floats 

about giving uncotrolled points gaps

Worth a check 

Pete

[Anglefire]

It’s a shiney refurbed dizzy from the dizzy dr. So I sure hope there is no wear!

[Anglefire]

It runs! 

It was either the carbs (at least partly I suspect!) or the fact that the points gap was too small!

Sun was out this morning -  So thought I'd just try it.

Went out for a spin and it is pulling lovely - no misfire, no hesitation.

The idle speed is too high still - but I've not adjusted the carbs at all - so that is a result in my book.

So going to go to Stoneleigh now (Not in the Spit!) 

[Pete Lewis]

Mark glad its going, ,   senior moments about the dizzy as read that  earlier

Its all down to driving 30 miles getting soaked and cold and  not starting the cars we went to help

Unusual that is, but think me halo had dropped around me feet 

Pete