GT6 rotoflex v normal handbrake cable

[ludwig113]

Hi all,

my current chassis is rotoflex but i will be changing that to a non rotoflex chassis and adding brackets so i can still use all the rotoflex suspension.

i've no issues with this bit.

however the rotoflex handbrake cable guides are on the body and the non-roto chassis has them on the diff. mounts.

 

the million dollar question....

can i just use a non-roto handbrake cable ? i can't see why not but i thought i would ask.

 

cheers paul

[Pete Lewis]

the two designs  are different lengths   now i dont know it its going to be too  long  or too short it will be one or the other  

someone has the lengths ???

if too short add a link . if too long ......?

Pete

[ludwig113]

32 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

the two designs  are different lengths   now i dont know it its going to be too  long  or too short it will be one or the other  

someone has the lengths ???

if too short add a link . if too long ......?

Pete

ok, cheers pete.

i don't see why i cant cobble together something that will work.

 

paul

[Clive]

Are you still using the rubber rotoflex's? If so there are clearance issues if you use the non-roto handbrake guides. The body guides were fitted for a good reason! And I think it makes adjustments harder to get correct, all to do with the length of the shaft changing with travel and the longer distance between the body-mounted guides and the rear wheels helps compensate.

[ludwig113]

1 hour ago, clive said:

Are you still using the rubber rotoflex's? If so there are clearance issues if you use the non-roto handbrake guides. The body guides were fitted for a good reason! And I think it makes adjustments harder to get correct, all to do with the length of the shaft changing with travel and the longer distance between the body-mounted guides and the rear wheels helps compensate.

hi clive,

no i'm ditching the roto rubber and fitting the CV conversion.

from looking at the parts book it looks like the difference between the 2 systems is just 1 cable. shorter for the rotoflex and longer for non-roto, everything else is the same.

[Clive]

You won't haveclearance issues then, but I don't see any advantage in using the incorrect cable/layout.

[Nick Jones]

I don't see the problem?  On a roto car the guides are on the tub, not the chassis, so provided you are using the original tub (or any other tub from a roto car) you can use the original guides and original cable.  You can either leave the guides that come with your new chassis on it (they won't interfere with anything), or cut them off.

If you are also changing your tub for one without guides on it, I would strongly recommend transferring the guides from old tub to new and using the original roto layout.  This is because the geometry of the cable-run is quite different between the two systems and using the chassis mounted guides with rotoflex causes more problems that simple interference with the doughnuts themselves.  Basically the cable tension changes rather drastically with suspension position, causing the handbrake to come on when passengers/loads are carried, or even when travelling over bumpy roads, unless the cable adjustment is set very slack.  There are also differences between the relay levers for the two types concerning the amount of offset from the centre pivot.

Nick

[ludwig113]

18 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

I don't see the problem?  On a roto car the guides are on the tub, not the chassis, so provided you are using the original tub (or any other tub from a roto car) you can use the original guides and original cable.  You can either leave the guides that come with your new chassis on it (they won't interfere with anything), or cut them off.

If you are also changing your tub for one without guides on it, I would strongly recommend transferring the guides from old tub to new and using the original roto layout.  This is because the geometry of the cable-run is quite different between the two systems and using the chassis mounted guides with rotoflex causes more problems that simple interference with the doughnuts themselves.  Basically the cable tension changes rather drastically with suspension position, causing the handbrake to come on when passengers/loads are carried, or even when travelling over bumpy roads, unless the cable adjustment is set very slack.  There are also differences between the relay levers for the two types concerning the amount of offset from the centre pivot.

Nick

thanks nick that makes sense,

i'm changing the middle floor/suspension hump.

its easy enough to change the guides so i'll do that.

 

cheers paul