Jump to content

bit baffled

david lewis

Recommended Posts

hi aii,

I have replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder on my 69 13/60 but cannot get the car into gear even though the clutch is working and well bled.

it seems there is too much travel on the clutch slave cylinder pushrod before it engages and I am wondering if this means the clutch is stuck on and not allowing it to spring back against the release bearing.

if so what do I do next ? anyone got any ideas?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also have a look down the o/s of the clutch housing you should see the end of the pivot pin its visible with a bit of searching , if the pin has dropped out theres just a hole

the pin is about 8 mm dia

Its held in with a tolerance ring a crinkle shim bush

device these odo rust and drop out , the withdrawl lever is

then running late and the slave wont travel far enough.


many do have to file the slave to allow more forward fitting


if the disc has stuck to the flywheel or the cover , it should not

affect the diaphragm released position .




Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's pin normally is anfew mm below the casting, it can go anywhere as its only held in place by

the crinkle bush( not the best design around) so depends how far it was tapped in by previous work.


if the driver dropped in 10mm I would start to be concerned if only a couple of mm then its as good as it gets


many use a replacement with a head on so it might be a rattling good fit but wont drop out and let you down ,


make sure the bleed screw is at the top pipe below it.

make sure the pedal returns to its stop

look at moving the slave towards the engine

examine for wear on the clevis pin holes in the pedal and fork

make sure no mats are restricting pedal travel



Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks guys for all your suggestions and advice this last week.

it was with some trepidation I took the dremel too my new slave cylinder and cut a new groove for the retaining bolt about a 1/2 inch further back but it seems to have worked,i bled the system and can now get all the gears o.k.

thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Hi all,

I have the same problem at the moment as Dave had with his clutch not releasing and not being able to select the gears, but my Spitfire Mk3 has been laid up for the past twenty two years in an old French barn. It is now up and running and is nearly ready to take on the lovely traffic free country roads of South West France. I have done and redone all that Dave has done except cut a new slot in the slave cylinder which I must say has passed my mind as an option but what of the internal workings of the clutch system that are hidden from view, if I modify a slave cylinder to suit my Spitfire then it becomes unique to my car and all other slave cylinders would have to be modified there on. Would it not have been better to bite the bullet and see if there is anything amiss the other side of the bell housing which I think will be my next option to keep things as normal as possible. Your comments would be most welcome before I start another task..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More likely the plate is stuck to the flywheel.

Soft approach, warm the engine up, then leave the clutch pedal wedged down (length of wood etc) overnight. May do the job, heat and time.

Next, jack the car up securely. Start car in 2nd gear, then carefully into 3rd and with with clutch down keep blipping the accelerator. Or even (with a decent space in front of you) clutch down and try starting the car in gear. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if that doesnt free it , you may end up with the box off.  


i have seen a hole saw cut in the bottom of the clutch housing  aligned with the pressure plate so a screw driver could be inserted to lever the disc off the flywheel with the pedal  pressed   you need a few pairs of hands to do this ,but you can get at the edge of the disc through the pressing relief of the pressure plate.  ( can be useful to measure its thickness for wear etc)  

beware !!!!!!!!!!!

Ive never tried this approach , but can see it might work , housings take a lot of torque and weight /vibration stress  who knows what adding a port will do 



just a  idea when the chips are down 



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Create New...