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twin Stromberg 150CDS starter assembly


bfashbolt

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burlen do sell a choke /starter assy but keep saying its GT6  which may not fit , this is daft as the carb specs are pretty much identical

but as others have found they are of little help  eg http://zenithcarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/spares/id/4044/

 

give the carb exchange  a call always helpful  http://www.carbex.demon.co.uk/

Q,  why do you need one  ???

Pete

 

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Hi Bfashbolt,

Burlen do have one starter assembly for 150CDS, they did have two but I bought one! Part number is B19203 (no 10 on list). Although states it's for a CDSE it fits the CDS but the disc comes with only one set of graduated holes so if you have twin carbs you will need to take off your old disc with two sets of holes to line up and enrich both carbs. At a previous (difficult) conversation with Burlen they did say they have the twin hole discs but their telephone system went down before I could get any price or part number!?!? The cam is the same as my old starter assembly so all ok........ it still has a minor dribble but then so do I. What parts do you need as I have my old assembly and could help out. 

Pete, no not having fun it's frustrating but thanks for the link I would never have found the part.

Iain

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Thanks for you'd responses, I'll try and explain - when the cooler weather came in autumn my Vitesse took longer to start. It does start after a while turning over and then runs well and even better when warmed up! If I restart same day it starts first time or even the next day it starts better. Local classic car tuning expert had a long expensive look and declared I needed what he called a choke block otherwise known as starter assembly or even 'enrichment device' (Burlen). So I now know why it might be slow to start. I too have had the same conversation with Burlen and guess what, they offered the B19203 as per Ian's post! So if I buy that I need to be abled to re-use the old disc, I'll have a word with the carb guy and see if he's OK with that! What I also need to ask him is what he thought was wrong with the starter assembly. I know I'm lucky in that my Vitesse does start and run well so I'm happy to continue trying to unravel this issue. Thanks Pete, Iain and Colin and Iain - if we identify any parts required I'll be in touch thanks for the offer☺

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Thanks for you'd responses, I'll try and explain - when the cooler weather came in autumn my Vitesse took longer to start. It does start after a while turning over and then runs well and even better when warmed up! If I restart same day it starts first time or even the next day it starts better. Local classic car tuning expert had a long expensive look and declared I needed what he called a choke block otherwise known as starter assembly or even 'enrichment device' (Burlen). So I now know why it might be slow to start. I too have had the same conversation with Burlen and guess what, they offered the B19203 as per Ian's post! So if I buy that I need to be abled to re-use the old disc, I'll have a word with the carb guy and see if he's OK with that! What I also need to ask him is what he thought was wrong with the starter assembly. I know I'm lucky in that my Vitesse does start and run well so I'm happy to continue trying to unravel this issue. Thanks Pete, Iain and Colin and Iain - if we identify any parts required I'll be in touch thanks for the offer☺

By the way, if anyone knows of any Zenith Stromberg spares stockists I'd be glad to hear about them! 

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The expert may be right in that it requires more fuel to start but make sure it's not something as simple as your pump letting fuel drain back, so takes longer to crank. I'm wondering if this is the reason that it starts better same day or reasonably soon after it has run. Do you have a priming lever on your fuel pump? If so, pump it until you feel the fuel pressure and then see how the car starts. 

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the later GT6 disc will have less fueling enrichment for cold starts to aid emmissions on later cars its not a deal breaker

what wrong with the valve you  have ????   theres little a bit of wet and dry and a poke thro the holes that cant be revived

do check the fuel hose on the tank outlet hidden in the boot these go hard and suck air ,and allow drain back . (does it have a hose clip? )

floats should keep enough fuel to cold start even though some will evaporate 

make sure the  choke suction tube into the carb throat is clear  (with valve off)

all you need is a screwdriver and simple tools   to remove the valve 

have a look see

Pete

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Pete's correct (isn't he always) it may be the graduated holes in the disc are gummed, up the smaller holes in mine were.

To remove the starter first ping off the spring clip that retains the choke cable sleeve to the carb (be careful because it can ping off and disappear into the bowels of the oily bits!), disconnect the choke cable from the lever arm, remove the feeder tube from the front to rear carbs (it's at the top by the starter assembly) and take out the two screws located on the B19203 starter. The whole assembly which consists of the starter and adjacent 'feeder' block with the brass tube to the rear carb can then be removed. There is a gasket between the 'feeder' block and the carb body if you are lucky this will come off intact. There is no gasket between the feeder and starter blocks, it requires fairy dust, luck or 1000 wet and drying the surfaces  to stop the metal to metal joint leaking!!!! Don't forget to put a rag underneath the carb to catch any fuel when you remove the starter.

You can now see the starter disc with the two sets of graduated holes that when rotated by pulling the choke out send fuel to enrich both carbs. The more you pull out the choke the more holes are exposed to the feeder block thereby further enriching the mixture. If the holes are gummed up use a carb cleaner and/or carefully clear with a needle. Note the disc and cup behind it are retained on the brass shaft by a peened slot so won't come off. You can clean the disc in situ or carefully wet and dry the peened bit to remove the tang so the disc can be removed. Best try cleaning it in situ, I took mine off and nearly lost the spring when everything 'exploded' when trying to put the assembly back on the carb.

Try this first before you buy anything and also make sure the screw that actuates the lever arm is adjusted correctly. You should only have around 1200 -1300 rpm on full choke, if you have more revs then release the locking nut and rotate the screw to give more clearance to the lever.

Let us know how you get on and have fun......

Iain

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Thanks again you chaps, so, as advised I will check all other options including fuel supply before trying the B19203 starter assembly. Not confident enough in my ability to strip/repair carbs so I'll get the part to the carb expert for him to fit.

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