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Heater Valve


Meeze

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I would avoid trying to undo the banjo bolt, it usually ends up in an expensive repair bill as the threads seem to destroy themselves.

I would attempt to drill the broken piece out, slowly increasing the drill size until almost all the way done. Then see if the remains will unscrew... the heat from drilling helps I think. 

 

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Clive,

Is it possible to tap a thread in to that and then get an adapter to take a new heater valve ??

I'm not sure what the heater valve thread size is perhaps 5/8"unf, if so you could tap 3/8"bsp in to the break; there are plenty of these adaptors about with this combination if the suggestion is practical. 

Just a thought..

Regards.

Richard.

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Astud extractor will "probably" just spread the softish ali out and make it tighter? 

I can't remember if the thread on the valve is tapered, I have a feeling it is. Drilling to use an adaptor may work, but needs suitable taps etc. I would just drill it out, then see if it will untwist or use a pick to bend the remains inwards and grab with long nosed pliers. 

I have ruined 2 manifolds in my time, both by trying to undo the banjo bolt. Back then they were £10 or £15 with carbs at the autojumbles, and plentiful. Not the case any more. A specialist could get it off and repair the threads, but I would try my suggestion first. 

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M,

The heater valve thread into my banjo mechanism is BSP, the thread on my new heater valve was BSPT, tapered. It may be different on a mk2.  Here is a previous thread detailing the trials and tribulations of fitting a new heater valve. My new valve is American and a different construction to the standard Triumph valve, MUCH smother and easier to operate. 

 

 

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Maria, my valve snapped off when I tried to remove it to change to that American heater valve that Doug mentioned. Mine was a TR6-style mounting (an extension out of the head) which is steel. I'm guessing the banjo mount you GT6 chappies have is aluminium? Anyway, I cut the inside of the valve stub in two places with a hacksaw blade ... very very carefully, so as no to graze the internal thread of the mount. Then I was able to squeeze the stub that was sticking out with a mole wrench and it unscrewed quite nicely.

When you put the new valve in, use plumbers tape to seal the thread, lower the friction as you screw in, and reduce the possibility of corrosion stopping you remove the valve in another 50 years!

Hope this helps, Richard

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  • 4 months later...

Well, 

Tony, my husband, hack sawed down to the threads. He's got more patience than me! After four pieces had been removed, using my tweezers and my vacuum cleaner, which had to be emptied, we were happy that there was no more crud in the manifold. He then used PTFE tape and wound the new heater valve in. Job done!

50yr old valve.jpg

Job well done! (1).jpg

Bits of thread.jpg

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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:

Colin,

It's no matter to me, I do my own vacuuming, ironing, bog cleaning. I'm happy to drop the rest of you in it! :lol:

Doug

Thanks. Now I have to do all of that on TOP of the gardening, painting, DIY and general modern slavery. I suppose I do the vacuuming and bog cleaning already, so it's only the ironing... 

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