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Mk3 spitfire engine splutters and cuts out


Andy Moss

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All the hose were ok, but they had hardened with fuel contact. There were a few funny shaped marks where the clamps had cut in. I blew through all the lines. The last resort will be to replace the copper pipe that runs from the tank to the front. Could it be the 1/4" copper fuel pipe?

I haven't taken the car for a run yet. I'm aprehensive about breaking down again.

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I have just been for a run in the car and it happened again on the drive just as I got back. No fuel in rear carb. No fuel delivery from the pump. Only trickle coming from the pipe just below the tank. I emptied the tank yesterday and it gushed out, but when it stopped I thought it was empty. It had just dragged crud into the pipe. I pushed strummer cord up the pipe to free it of debris. I removed the fuel tank sender to take a better look inside and found that the epoxy I used on the inside of the tank is decomposing and flaking which is causing the blockages.

What should I do? Can the tank sealer be removed?

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Seems this treatment does cause these problems , from time to time this subject appears, , think it needs hard to obtain preparation to work for life

guess its need a professional repairer to chemically clean it off. 

 

or go  buy a new one    http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005628

 

at least  youve found the culprit   time for a cuppa 

 

Pete

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as the mk3 has a bottom feed supply union can you adapt to extend the suction union to protrude inside the tank by 25mm to keep all the debris below the fueling union feed.  ,  like solder a short tube into the union ,   a filter is too late it will soon block up., keeping the suction above the tank base is how it used to be done years back 

I dont know whats in the Spitty 3  tank 

 

you could remove the tank and drain it well add some sharp sand and a touch of ballast from BQ and give it a right good shake this should dislodge any further loose stuff, the problem  is getting it all rinsed out afterwards ...just a cheap way of blasting the inside,  use something heavy / like shingle and it will never get sucked up.

must say  Ive never tried this .

 

Pete

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Im thinking tank out. Wash it out. Chuck some pebbles in a wag it around a bit. Rinse with petrol. Use some of this stuff:

http://www.rust.co.uk/0007-as10-resin-remover/p506329/

Rinse again. Fuel pipe to sit 1/2 inch proud of the tank bottom. I'll let you know how it goes.

If only I had not put that resin in the tank! I will not add any this time, because who knows what they will put in fuel next.

Thanks for your help guys. I hate intermittent faults.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bought at new tank. That stuff will not budge and I can't trust it to not keep causing the fault. I got a quote to recondition the tank of more than £400. One of the baffles came loose in the stripping process. New tank is much cheaper and is probably Where I'd end up if I spent more on the decon process, so decided to cut and run.

Ta

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Ok. Something I did not question was why I needed an epoxy coating on the inside of a perfectly sound petrol tank. I would urge people to consider that before using these products. Given the problems that I have had I do not recommend them. Question is, if it hasn't rusted in the last 40 years do you think it will now, given that it will probably be treated better by the decerning Classic owner. You have been warned.

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Those that have already added an epoxy liner. I wish you all the best and sincerely hope that yours does not fail like mine did. I applied mine 5 years ago and it seems to have decomposed. Perhaps I did something wrong in the application or it could be the ethanol in petrol affecting the lining. All the best and thanks for your suggestions.

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I guess you could get water in your fuel, but I wonder how. If it's a closed container with a breather at the top, which is designed to allow some air so fuel can flow out, then it could allow water in the atmosphere to enter the tank, but I expect it's not really a problem unless it condenses. Do you have a particular problem?

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certain;y moisture in the atmosphere can enter all  breathable containers, there is more air shift with a empty or 1/2 tank less than with a full one just

because there is more air inside to change its volume with highs and lows of temperature changes   especially brake reservoirs .

hence the need to change fluid every two years  ..its full of water like up to 50%

 

 

tank breathing 

we had troubles when they introduced roll over proof fuel caps with biased breather  fuel cap vents , parked up for despatch with just a gallon in and by the height of day the sun warmed the tank and the pressure was enough to override the carb needle and then it permeated through the manifold down the bores and half filled the sump in a couple of days .   and due to emmission changes the manifold drain tube had been deleted  ..  

a good idea  turned .....nightmare   

 

Pete

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Andy. Glad you sorted it in the end (and a good learning curve on all the possible aspects of the problem I imagine).

 

Just out of interest, does moisture/condensation tend to settle at bottom of tank, underneath petrol do you know ?.

 

Cheers Dave 

condensation can only occur above the petrol but as it condenses it will eventually gather at the bottom of the tank once the fuel has taken on as much water as it can possibly absorb (yes modern fuel is hydroscopic) at this point you will not get any bang from your fuel, secret is to brim the tank during prolonged storage as this has the effect of reducing surface area only fillerneck and reduces the void to create condensate by heat variations. just my 2p worth.

 

oh Hi I am new round here lol

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