Roy Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Do any of you know what the torque setting is for tightening the diff front mounting nuts. The one's which secure over the rubber bushes. Car is an early Spitfire but with GT6 diff fitted. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 7/16unf bolt is 38/40lbft the 2 welded in drop pins for the front rubbers 3/8"unf is 26/28lbft the 4 special bolts (wedge lok ) carrier to axle case 26lbft ( these have a tapered shank and internal star washers due to hole in brkt is 7/16 for a 3/8 threaded bolt, so shank is tapered ) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 The fact that it is a GT6 diff is not relevant, its a small chassis diff, and they all mount the same way and use the same torque for the mounting bolts. From the GT6 workshop manual (which I happen to have quickly to hand) the torque is 26-28 lb-ft, or 35 to 38 Nm in new money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Many thanks for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Hi, is it possible for the front nyloc to unscrew and hence need tightening? I ask, because many years ago my spit/gt6 diff started whining and a local garage tightened it up and noise was gone. Ten years later and now with a quaife fitted the noise is back. Can I just tighten again to the spec. torque? Anybody else done this? Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Try, but I am pretty certain the nuts bottom out and you can't over-compress the bushes. If they are slack, maybe an extra washer?? Saying that, never had an issue with the original bushes on diffs, even at nearly 50 years old they seem good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Clive, If you are referring to the pinion nut; this is what I want to hear. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 No the pinion nut is most unlikely to loose torque, there are two types of spacer inbetween the pinion bearings a solid one with shims to calibrate the pre load and a collapsible one that crushes to known amount to given predetermined pre load This could be retightend to acheive more pre load but not normal operation too much pre load will seize the bearings Any action on the nut with a solid spacer will have no effect There are two pinion nut threads 5/8 90-100lbft 9/16 70-80 lbft always fit two bolts in the flange and hold the coupling with a bar through not use the transmission which will wind up really best left alone , to check the pre load really needs the crownwheel and diff case removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Not what I wanted to hear but what I thought. The pinion needs resetting and set and held so it cannot move! I thought having a new diff with a quaife would last a lifetime. Two blown 3.27's and now this one is going the wrong way. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 If it1s a whine thats most likely bearing on the pinion giving out. if its the outer , whine on overun can change without stripping out, if whine on drive its the inner pinion thrust bearing and needs the cw and diff case out to remove the pinion, then the bearing set must be set to the correct height, mounting distance from the CW centreline not easy without carefull measuring equipment pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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