Vitesse Mk1 Syncro non overdrive

[Bobtaylor]

Hello, I have a 1968 Mk1 Vitesse. I have been reading some road tests from when the car was new stating that it has full syncro.

I was under the impression that there was not any syncro on 1st..is that right.

The syncro on 2nd  in my car is quite weak..is it possible to cure this problem without rebuilding the whole gearbox...and is it a DIY job?

I am no mechanical wizard but can use a spanner and follow instructions!!

Bob

[johny]

I have the same set up and our gearbox, as standard, does have synchro on 1st. The earlier 1600cc cars didnt and first gear is a bit noisier to engage on the move...

Unfortunately the synchro rings themselves are the same as used in the first 998cc Heralds so second and third especially suffer. This problem was reduced later with bigger rings in the last GT6/Dolomite 1850 and for this reason these gearboxes are highly sought after.

Its a complete stripdown of the gearbox to replace the rings but with a bit of mechanical knowledge can be done at home. Mine is coming up to it but has managed over 80k on the original rings although I do drive pretty sedately and keep it in 4th as much as possible. However with the torque and smooth running of the six I dont find this at all difficult☺️ 

[Bobtaylor]

Synchro on 1st is non existent and and changing up and down into 2nd requires care to avoid crunching if you don’t double declutch. 3rd and 4th are fine and it is quiet. I also stick mostly to 3rd and top once on the move and as you say with so much torque it is not a big problem.

I am not too enthusiastic with quick changes or harsh acceleration so I wonder should I wait until it gets worse?!!! But I wonder if it would be more pleasant to drive with a working synchro on 1st and 2nd?

has anyone had a mk1 2lit box rebuilt and if so what would expect to pay?

Bob

 

[johny]

I take it your clutch is fully disengaging and engine tick over is as low as possible? Certainly you cant change gear like a modern and Ive practiced to get mine as smooth as possible (matching revs, not too fast, not too slow etc) with different techniques for each gear and of course up and down. My box is still pretty good and Im putting off stripping it as long as possible but in the meantime have collected several others (as I say other versions have many of the same parts). Unfortunately some of the pattern parts available these days can be unreliable but there is a couple of rebuild specialists used on here that have a good reputation...

[Pete Lewis]

yes this will be the small baulk rings on aMk1 

theres more to it than just new rings  , the more you make crunches the more damage you do to the small chamfered dog teeth thats on the gear and the sleeve 

the later you leave this the more it may cost 

the small dog teeth and sleeve must have a well defined /\  tooth chamfer of around 55deg    every chrunch destroys a little more of this getting replacement gears and sleeves is costly 

needs alook see to determine whats needed  

all the boxes can be stripped with very few tools even a dummy layshaft can be made from a bit of hose or tube to fit 

then a drift and mallet and its all apart 2  some circlips can be a faf 

Pete

[johny]

I think a Mk2 is the same isnt it?

Also have you got any experience of the pattern rings available now Pete?

[Pete Lewis]

well we got some some of the new rings we got to put in PaulH 's rebuild did not wring onto the cones well so we used a mix of new and old  

the end result is not good but we have the unkown  rattling good fit 1/2nd hub which is a slack alice on the mainshaft so 2nd is still not good 

I fitted some hi spec ££s  german rings in the 2000  and even they are not ace.

finding rings that have been machined on a mandrill and are actually round seems a want too far 

we have not got to the bottom of the rattling hub , its the 2nd one ive come across , i thought  it was 1 rail 3 rail mix but they show the same part number hub

need th check up on TR7 4 speed  hubs  where do these nastiest come from     

the small ring larger ring needs a chassis no.  to clear what you have or should have  & certainly not interchangeable /mixable

 

Pete

[68vitesse]

These are the two rings, the one on the left being the later one, the rings have the same external diameter and I have heard them called thick, earlier, and thin, later, rings from the difference in internal diameter.

Regards

Paul.

 

[thescrapman]

22 hours ago, Bobtaylor said:

Synchro on 1st is non existent and and changing up and down into 2nd requires care to avoid crunching if you don’t double declutch. 3rd and 4th are fine and it is quiet. I also stick mostly to 3rd and top once on the move and as you say with so much torque it is not a big problem.

I am not too enthusiastic with quick changes or harsh acceleration so I wonder should I wait until it gets worse?!!! But I wonder if it would be more pleasant to drive with a working synchro on 1st and 2nd?

has anyone had a mk1 2lit box rebuilt and if so what would expect to pay?

Bob

 

If you have no synchro at all on 1st, you may well have a 1600 box. 

2nd is always the first to get weak, then 3rd, as they do the most work.

You can usually get away with swapping first and second as a bodge fix, as you very rarely go from second to first.