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Increasing brightness of indicator lights on Herald 13/60


Quack

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On 30/01/2022 at 13:36, NonMember said:

Your wiring is old and probably not as clean as it might be.

I assume the under bonnet heat, in this area, can fatigue the outer plastic, though can it also affect the copper wire?.

Other areas. From an age point of view, is the wiring generally sound, aside from possible oxidation around the terminals/joints?

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5 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

I assume the under bonnet heat, in this area, can fatigue the outer plastic, though can it also affect the copper wire?

The heat won't directly affect the copper - it's not hot enough - but it does aggravate other effects. For example, the current capacity of the wire is derated when hot, the corrosion caused by water ingress occurs faster when hot, etc.

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Clean terminals and contact area`s, a little light preventative (I still use the old Vaseline)( no don`t think even about it!!!!) will likely help and it`s only cost is a hour or two labour?.

Addendum. The rear high level brake light on the Motorhome failed, (corrosion). I replaced it with a short strip of LED`s. left over from replacing the under cabinet lighting. Works a treat. So I did the same to the "awning" light over the door.👍, again works fine. I like a cheap/free solution. Couple of hours work and a soldering iron.

Pete

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On 13/10/2022 at 23:51, HowardB said:

You can avoid changing the flashers by installing a 6.8 Ohm 50 W resistor in parallel with the LED bulbs. RS Components can supply them https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/chassis-mount-resistors/0160922 .

This does work and until I get round to sorting out the wiring on my TR7 V8 conversion & refitting the electronic flashers I am running with a resistor between each of the rear indicator lights & earth.

Beware though, put the resistor where it can cool and not burn something. The bulbs have loads of space around them for this purpose. I x I x R here is around 20watts.

Posted it instead of quoting it last time. I must do better!

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Repeating myself and others here from the past. The old flashing system with bulbs is clever in that it makes blown bulbs obvious, by fast flashing or sticking 'ON'. Clean the connections, lenses, wiring, then leave it alone. LED systems do not all detect failure to flash. then you will be flashed and honked at, or hear a loud crunch.

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15 hours ago, Wagger said:

Repeating myself and others here from the past. The old flashing system with bulbs is clever in that it makes blown bulbs obvious, by fast flashing or sticking 'ON'. Clean the connections, lenses, wiring, then leave it alone. LED systems do not all detect failure to flash. then you will be flashed and honked at, or hear a loud crunch.

Audible "device" in series?. No power no beep?. That is how my Trailer lighting (LED`s) appears to Work. Failed connection the audible "beeping" stops.

Pete

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On 16/10/2022 at 14:28, Wagger said:

Beware though, put the resistor where it can cool and not burn something. The bulbs have loads of space around them for this purpose. I x I x R here is around 20watts.

Posted it instead of quoting it last time. I must do better!

Cooling the resistor when used with indicators is not a serious as it only heats up when the power is applied - it will easily dissipate 10 Watts. However the point about temperature and coming into contact with materials that can be damaged is a valid comment and I should have mentioned it. Its a much more serious issue if your indicators can also be used as Hazards when they may be left on for extended periods.

 

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