SpitFire6

Hi Pete, It will slip if I really want it to from standstill. It has never ever slipped at other times. The gearbox is being removed from the car & I will have to change the clutch as I will be pissed if it ever has to come out again for clutch-related problems in my lifetime. Cheers, Iain,

Hi all, I saw this company: http://www.blackdiamondperformance.com/clutch_triumph.htm No mention of TR5/6 which made me think of major differences. I then found a company selling them: https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/performance/triumph/gt6.html The three different kits available from £200 to £380. They call them stages. Stage 1 These clutches are designed for use with a standard or mildly modified engine - where torque and engine revs are 20-25% up from standard. Stage 2 This clutch is designed for high revving engines where the vehicle’s power has been increased 25-30% above standard. Stage 3 Designed for use with highly modified engines (up to 40% above standard). Looking at the numbers they quote it looks like none of them are suitable for a 2.5 150HP engine in any case. Also the friction part would not fit a TR shaft. Off to look at the expensive TR ones. Thanks, Iain.

Hi, Max from the NW installed first with no visible change apart from the OD switch cover with different position of R. No pictures exist. I have several pictures of the GB & new chassis from 2010ish but does not appear to show mounting. Could be just pictures for show. I have several pictures of build that don't match reality. some because things were changed. I have seen some uprated "blackDiamond"? 3 piece kits for GT6's but not for TR5/6. Confused. Wanting best bang for but do not want to spend 250 quid for parts if there is a better option. I do need something that will handle without slipping, foot pressure not an issue as I will live with it.

Don't forget to coat all those electrical connections with ACF50 grease. I do! Made for Spitfires.

100% agree. Confusion as I would not call battery connectors terminals.

Hi, I lost my first hi-torque SM due to water ingress. Destroyed the high current copper parts. I need to get round to wrapping the new one in Denso tape. Cleaning of bad electrical connectors is best done with ScotchBrite green. Sandpaper/emery cloth will strip the tin plating of the connector exposing the copper & corrosion will happen quicker than before. Cheers, Iain.

Sandpaper and battery terminals (lead) is good. Sandpaper and terminals is not a good idea.

Hi Clive, Excluding release bearings that can be purchased separately to match physically what I have at relatively small additional cost. Cover plates are the same mounting points? The driven plate is dependent on drive splines/diameter? I need an uprated clutch. Three-piece uprated clutches appear to be available for both boxes. I don't have a problem buying an additional release bearing; the cheapest part! Cheers, Iain.

Hi, my car is not with me at the moment. 6 cylinder CP with GT6 flywheel & a GT6 starter motor. Was original fitted with a GT6 gearbox. A TR gearbox was fitted round 15 years ago & I only remember a "bush" being fitted into the flywheel. Concerning TR & GT clutch parts: Are release bearings the same? Are cover plate mountings the same? Are driven plates the same? Thinking it must match the input shaft. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, sugar or something that can convert to sugar. I make ethanol all the time. Too good to waste in the engine, I drink it. Cheap to make with a T500 still. I periodically add alcohol to my fuel when I see it cheap or on special. Good stuff to prevent corrosion in my fuel tank. E10- bring it on. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Any thoughts on this zinc "galvanised coating"? Looks cheap enough @ 30 quid for 1Kg? https://supply1.co.uk/zinga-galvanising-system-10432-p.asp?_=&variantid=10433&gclid=CjwKCAjwlZf3BRABEiwA8Q0qq4kcgyX7oUglwS1QZetheMvtVpdp4b3b7BwAU4eEY6g8JWJc7ixydxoCRUkQAvD_BwE Cheers, Iain

"80bhp and 95lbsft @ 5100.... at the flywheel" suggests to me that you have restricted gas flow with the TH5 2200-7000 Cam.

No harm with the biggest cable to connect Alt to Batt. You have left enough slack to allow adjustment. Maybe 25mm2 could be considered too big a diameter, but if you had a Class 6/Hi flex & lugs, why not. Current rating is never going to be an issue with 16mm2 & the important bit, the volt drop is minimized. You might now find that the volt drop on the -ve side is the limiting factor. When you have some free time: With engine running & all loads on. Measure the millivolts DC between the centre of +ve battery post & centre of B+ on Alternator? Measure the millivolts DC between the centre of -ve battery post & B- or body of Alternator?

130 quid. Lowest Ohm. Low RFI.

There are loads! Downloaded the lot. Thanks to Triumph Enthusiasts Club Belgium.

Hi, Take a look: https://tecb.eu/technische-vraagbak/index.html Loads of Triumph manuals to download. Enjoy. Cheers, Iain.

That's the best-sized cable I have seen on an alternator. Never seen better.

In the late 80's I was always cracking the one on the driver's side when it was a 1500. Have always checked under the car & its just a distant memory now. I guess my driving style has changed. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I use software breadboard so that I do not need to buy anything. I am too old to want to learn the 30 or so commands to program PIC chips so I use ladder programming software. Makes life very easy for me. I program Siemens PLC's before I was Furloughed. Roger PM me if you are after some software. You can connect a 555 you can use the Software. Gone back to basics & started with a frequency to voltage converter for 12V and points/modern ignition. Need to set onboard jumpers to select: 4 Cylinder 6 Cylinder 4 with wasted spark & 6 with a wasted spark. I have not picked resistors yet for the wasted spark modes. 7000 RPM I have set for 5V OP. I do not think more than this is needed for shift light & OverDrive Inhibit? Setpoint for both will be set on second circuit. So far it all works. On Sim. Cheers, Iain.

Indeed..

Hi Roger, I can't find a suitable F to V circuit that does not include a chip or easy to program with the software I am using. Problems with the circuit simulator. The programming software simulator has no problems. Never has. Cannot use it to count though, so have to use a voltage input for RPM. The basic ladder is below: The program will fit on a £1 8 pin chip. I sill have 2 analogue or digital pins left! Yours works. Mine is still on the PC. I was going to use a 555 for tacho interface & then found a micro with 6 I/O cheaper. The thing that takes the longest time for me is the PCB layout. Wish I had sockets for ATO fuses & car relays. Hate having to make my own So without speed input is relatively easy. I wanted RPM in for holding the OD in on Hi RPM or if you change down with OD on at hi revs. I want the function without additional parts. Would have given a shift light too. Glad I don't do this for a job> I will stick with PLC's. Which is what started this project for me. I have this program already but on a PLC. I like the "Bistable to replace 4000uf cap" Comment. The timer must have been cheaper. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I tried posting on the TR Forum but will not allow pictures so back here. I gave up with relays when it's cheaper with a micro. Thought I would post my own logic box spec. My logic box has two outputs: Volt free contacts to enable Solenoid. Dimmable remote LED for Solenoid Status. Nine Inputs: PushButton or switch Input. (Edge Triggered). Inhibit(s) input. 6 Cylinder selection. (Connect to 12V). 4 Cylinder selection. (Connect to 12V). Clutch Input. Activated if 4 Cylinder selected. (Eliminates problem of inhibitor switches not dropping out while changing gear). Sidelights Input. (Dims LED at night). Wasted Spark selection. (Connect to 12V). RPM input from the coil. Internal or external setting of high RPM. (Trimmer or POT) Works with any type of switch. Latching or momentary. If gearstick switch is used; A jumper needs fitting to the outer contacts. OD drops out on gear change. 4 Cylinder boxes will need a clutch (Brake switch) fitted. Will not be able to disengage Solenoid if RPM too high. If RPM is high & you change to 3rd, the solenoid will not disengage and you will end up in OD 3rd.. Dimmable external LED will mimic the state of the solenoid. The LED will flash if RPM is inhibiting disengagement. High RPM trip point set after selecting the number of cylinders & if wasted spark. I looked at the relay ones and quickly realised that a £3 IC was a cheaper option. It works fine on simulation and is about 15 lines of code. I NO I/O left but loads of space as the program takes up about 25% of space. I don’t know if I need to interface to anything else? Please comment before I waste too much time on this

Hi, The speedo is matched to the diff. Overdrive or not will have no effect on the reading. A different pinion on OD or non-OD? I guess its possible as factory install of OD meant a different Diff. Mine reads 10% low. So following with interest. 980 TPM. Somebody will tell you what diff that is for. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I think the custom set was around 90 quid. I have the receipt & will confirm when I find it. I think the Magnacor are around 70 Ohms a CM. Zero problems with EFI. Measure a few times to order the correct lengths. Consider the lengths that will enable you to swap over pairs at the coil to even wear on the plugs. I bought junk leads from "mr-retro-leads-plugs" for 50 quid so a bargain at £90. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I can understand how to set clearance now. I will check its 0.125mm. Snookered if it's greater. I will check. The Chris Witor Butt plug thing looks easy to fit & no mod to the gear required. Cheers, Iain.