SpitFire6

Bang bang out. It's 5/8". Smallest of the bunch. Less chance of looking locking up I thought until I saw this from a Book. Is this true??? surely not! Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Still fizzing! The alloy has a soft water-soluble charchaol coloured coating. Not sure why I can smell sulphur compounds? Cheers, Iain.

His birthday today! Happy birthday Clint.

Hi Doug, The only GT6 part of the car is the Logbook. Its a "Triggers Brush". It has the skinny manual rear shoes. It was a single system but now tandem after the rear flexible leaked & I lost brakes. That's when I found that the cylinder was seized despite it going through many MOT's. Seems that the Quaife for one reason or another caused a pass every time. The car is in lockdown at the moment hundreds of miles away so I can't check its partner. Nothing else better to do I thought I would check this one. It's sitting in acid at the moment fizzing away. Hopefully, something is left to measure tomorrow! Thanks, Iain.

Wanner? unnaturally pale, esp from sickness, grief, etc? I can't hydraulically remove it as It has a 10mm hole in the backside now. Just dunked it. No joy. will give it 60 mins in the oven and then going to dunk it in phosphoric acid while holding breath. Leave it for 24 hours. Will see if it dissolves more of the alloy. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, so 5/8", 5.5/8", 6/8" & 7/8". I am curious about what I had in the back. Both have been replaced with new. Can't remember. LOL. I just drilled the plate out on the backside and through to the inside. Now the wife has gone to work I am heating it in the oven @ 230c. Will drop it in some tap water and bang the cylinder out. If it doesn't come out I will give up on it. Cheers, Iain.

Do you want to shoot it?

Hi, I believe there are 3 choices for a slave cylinder on a GT6. 5/8", 5.5/8" & 6/8"? If I measure the diameter of the exposed piston end, should this be the same as the internal diameter of the piston? The end diameter is way smaller than even the 5/8". The cylinder is seized solid & will not come out. Suspect it's been seized for many years while on the car. No info on the body. Cheers, Iain.

LOL.

Three years previously I heard the same noise & smelt a different plastic catching fire when I fitted 150/90 H4's. Dip/Main beam switch caught fire. Memories

It was in the 80's. I could find no leaks. My guess at the time was it was my rear brakes being out of adjustment. Will never know.. It happened in the morning when I got in the car and applied the footbrake.

Hi, I shorted my brake warning light out so the oil pressure light was normal intensity. Worked great! Sometime later the PDWA activated. Harness went pusssssssshhhhhhhhh & car filled with smoke. LOL not. Iain.

Hi, 150 quid for BT connectivity & 15w x 4 RMS is very expensive. to connect to it without BT you will need an aux output. Most period radios do not have this connector. For that sort of money, you could buy a 60w x4 amp and a BT transmitter/receiver. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, Find somebody who will let you borrow the RAL slide book to match. Unless you can match here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_RAL_colors Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I was told it was dipped & where the coating has flaked off the zinc is present. Around 500c I believe. Been on the car for ten years now. Drivers side outrigger lasted 8 years.. Plated now. Cheers, Iain.

Agree. I have worked with Fusion Bonded Epoxy coatings for over 25 years. If the substrate is good the coating will last years. Underground. It would disbond if hit with a hammer, but liquid paint is not much better. It weathers in sunlight. Prone to disbanding on sharp edges. Liquid paint is more forgiving. Think I would use a specific liquid coating on chassis. Mine is galvanised. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I am a little concerned now about my red cover. The gear inside might have been modified. Five or so years ago I can remember removing it and posting a picture of it on Sideways with some questions. I do remember not being concerned. I remember no more.. I have just ordered a 1.5MM sheet of PTFE that I will fit under the plate & monitor. I will also now positively lock the two screws as I can see if they unscrew, the engine is toast. The car is not with me and stuck at a garage until it’s safe to pick it up. So I can’t check or measure anything unfortunately. The possible chatter concerns me as I planned on fitting an 8mm inductive sensor for sequential injection. No good if the 1mm clearance becomes -0.1mm & the sensor is decapitated. Under the plate is crankcase pressure? I could certainly use another path. Velocity is too high through the ½” one on the fuel-pump plate. Cheers, Iain.

Hi, I assume none recessed looks like this. Cheers, Iain.

Hi Nick, What problems might be possible? I can only control how far it rises & it doesn't appear to rise after ten years of use. It's been a few years since I painted it red and have not checked the underside since then. I will be checking it in the near future as I want to fit a prox sensor so I can run sequential injection. Should I be concerned? What should I be concerned about? Mines a 6 cyl CP block. Thanks, Iain.

Hi, here is a clear one. Below it is just the single cam to oil-pump deal. The gear mesh & rotation causes the gear to pull down. I did wonder about the clearance thing as only have the standard paper gasket on it. Should I add or remove gaskets? There is a witness mark on the underside, but nothing I can feel with the fingernail. If I should be setting a correct clearance I would love to know-how? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, You are looking for the red plate? Cheers, Iain.

Hi, a long time ago when the Cd bolts & nuts were available I stocked up on all sizes for suspension. I only bought grade 8 (10.9) fasteners. I think the normal bolts are grade 5. I wanted Cadmium for corrosion protection. Black one's rust. Zinc plated doesn't last long before corroding. Cheers, Iain.

Silicone?

Hi, Anybody charged up a BMS Lithium 12v pack from a car alternator? Cheers, Iain.