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Posts posted by Paul H
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I have MGF seats and Securon Inertia seat belts and they don’t interfere with the seat movement . I’ll post a pic later
Paul
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
crikey the trackrite has rocketed in price since we last looked its now at around £75 but will last years and soon get your money back
Gunson G4008 Trakrite Wheel Alignment Gauge : Amazon.co.uk: Toys & Games
incorrect Toe In is the main reason which will soon rip rubber off your tread more than any other incorrect setting
and thats front and rear Trackrite gives you the answer in 2minutes
Pete
I paid just over £40 two years ago ,
Paul
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2 hours ago, WestChiltRanger said:
Yes I’ve loosened the bolts above the diff tunnel, these are the bolts that the shock bracket slides into. I’ve checked the seatbelts and they seem okay.
You don’t mention you’ve remove the outrigger bolts which are accessed from the boot area a few inches away from the rear light clusters . Can’t remember if it’s one or two bolts
Paul
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Just check the top brackets are handed . Mine were the same and fitted one and it was pig to remove . When I did the same job the body did move a fraction but it was very difficult to drive in the bracket .
Paul -
My money is on the bad fitting fibreglass gearbox cover being the source of the fumes
Paul
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I found my fibreglass gearbox cover in my Vitesse was a terrible fit and heat / fumes a significant issue. The gearbox cover even had a cut out for the heat diverter box so impossible to seal . I’ve filled the cut out and I’ve made oversize (width) hardboard gaskets one for the cabin and fire wall ( they are silconed in ) . The matching gaskets siliconed to the gearbox cover . I haven’t tested it yet though confident fumes will be reduced significantly or completely eliminated . Between the hardboard gaskets I’ve glued lengths of inner tube to make the seal airtight
Paul
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Are fumes coming in via gaps in the gearbox cover ?
Paul -
41 minutes ago, Phil C said:
Sorry Paul, been away for a few days and just seen this.
I would start by saying I'm no expert in these matters so can only say what I did and any problems I encountered.
1. I assume you mean where it enters the booth? Mine was at floor level but I was concerned this might blow any floor dust/debris into the air. In the end I didn't have a problem but I did get Henry hoovering up the floor regularly. A higher level might remove this risk.
2. Opposite ends is good as it ensures max air displacement. However I directed the incoming blast away from the main spraying area as I didn't want it interfering with the spraying, so it was 90 degrees to the exhaust. You can see my inlet/outlet alignment in the initial picture I posted.
I did find the initial inflow quite fierce so extended the hose length and had it turn through 180 degrees which seemed to slow it down a little. You will just have to see how yours behaves and adjust as necessary.
Hope this is useful.
Phil
Thanks Phil . Your info makes sense . Just testing the new air blower and the pressure is quite fierce . After a spraying session did you leave the blower on for a while ?
Appreciate your input
Paul
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2 minutes ago, clive said:
I’ve got one . Very light and not deep so fits easily . I think the bracket I bought to fit under the dash cost more than the radio ! Radio works fine and great value for money . I guess the price has gone up now I think mine was about £15
Paul
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On 07/08/2022 at 18:35, Phil C said:
I sprayed my Vitesse with Celly last year and for what its worth this is what I did.
I made a timber frame/polythene booth inside my garage (Lucky to have a double but could be done in a single?)
I made it as small as possible - just big enough to hold the tub with space to spray it.
I bought a pair of spray booth filters and made a filter box to suck air through. This was connected to the booth via a Sealey air mover and hose. This positively pressurised the booth ensuring no dust/flies etc would get in through gaps and cracks. An exhaust was provided using a piece of plastic pipe to the driveway.
It worked very well as I had no problems with dust/flies etc.
Hi Phil , I’m in the process of building an inner spray booth like yours . Just purchased this blower 10ins fan
I’m following your principle of positive pressure and the blower will be outside of the garage with a filter together with ducting going into the spray booth . The booth with have an extraction ducting 8 ins diameter which will be opposite the blower intake & will then go into the garden. My questions are
1 . should the blower intake be floor level or spray level . To me the latter makes sense .
2 my exhaust will be opposite to the intake . Is this best position ?
ThanksPaul
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16 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Vertically as has a ball bearing in the top . In a crash the ball bearing pops out and breaks the power
Paul
If you meant the pump I thought it had to be horizontal
Paul
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22 minutes ago, Iain T said:
So it can be fitted vertically or horizontally?
Iain
Vertically as has a ball bearing in the top . In a crash the ball bearing pops out and breaks the power
Paul
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25 minutes ago, johny said:
Neat. Is it man enough to run the pump directly or need a relay?
I didn’t fit a relay though it’s has a 10am fuse . From memory it uses 5 to 8 amps
Paul
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
I have evaporation after a couple of months winter lay off. Occasionally, after a shorter lay off, mine will start and then die, due to the pump not overcoming the drain back quickly enough. An electric pump might be on the cards but there are a few threads on here where the pump turned out to be too powerful causing further headaches.
Doug
I have the HUCO 13001 fuel pump and can recommend it
Paul
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52 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
There is only one choke mechanism, it's on the rear carb and connects to the front carb via the tube. So with the choke on you should see some fuel transfer.
But even if the choke was only working on one carb I would expect the engine to try
Doug
The choke on my CDSE’s is on the front carb . Is this wrong ?
Paul -
1 minute ago, euan douglas said:
Hopefully someone can help me in my ignorance! What type of Stromberg CD150s are on my GT6? They have the temperature compensators on the side but I'm not sure if they are CDS, CDSE or what! Also is it normal to have the choke on only the front carb? Have had the car for years but would like to be educated further.
Thanks
Euan
look like CDSE’s which have temp compensators which should be screwed down and choke on the front carb .
Paul -
I see you have a dished steering wheel , although I have MGF seats in a Vitesse Saloon ( more access ) i also have a 13" flat steering wheel , changing should give you more room ?
Paul
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In addition to jacking the sump i loosened the offsite engine mount .
Paul
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6 minutes ago, clive said:
They are best contacted by phone. Huge supplier/manufacturer of Triumph stuff, but quite old fashioned.
https://www.rust.co.uk/?s=Tank+repair&post_type=product
https://www.frost.co.uk/fuel-tank-repair/
i used frosts tank liner expensive though it worked . You must follow the instructions to the letter .
I would go for Rust with slosh . Rust has a good reputation
Paul
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15 minutes ago, raygeorge said:
Dear Peter
I am struggling to find Fitchetts.
Can you suggest any others who might supply a new tank?
With Best Wishes
Ray
Paul
Dropped a stainless washer
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
No all attempts failed . Decided to leave . It’s a very light ( cheapo ) washer and hopefully it’s stuck on the oily bellhousing surface somewhere . I will continue to live dangerously 😱
Paul