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Paul H

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Posts posted by Paul H

  1. 52 minutes ago, PeteH said:

    1/2" drive Battery Impact guns. My local Aldi, still had a couple, Tuesday last, and they where reduced too? by about a tenner. This is the one that does not use their "multi use battery" system. but it`s still a damn good buy, I got one last year, used it when overhauling the brake`s on my P-107.👍 It`s not got the "Oomph" of my Air Tools One, (10bar) But it`s far more versatile.

    Pete

    Another vote for Lidl impact wrench . Mine is 240v and cost £30 a couple of years ago , prices have risen though still worth the money 

    Paul 

  2. 23 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Well, give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day. Give him a set of spanners and his car will end up in bits. Poor old Herald...

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    Well, it's only got itself to blame. The fuel tank leaked, it went off for repairs, so I may as well address some of the little issues that need addressing. The dashboard surround has gone off to the upholsterer's for recovering, and while that area is all stripped down I've been addressing the issues likely to be caused by fitting a Vitesse dashboard instead of the 13/60 version. I'm adding a rev counter, oil pressure gauge and voltmeter, so the wiring is being addressed for those; simple stuff like stringing additional cables along the loom and splicing into the red and white cable for the additional gauge illumination. I've recently stripped down an old loom so the cables can be the correct colour and size. It's funny how complicated a simple thing can be; the 13/60 dash had the switch bar across the middle, and the Vitesse dash has separate holes for all the components. What should go where?

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    I had to borrow heavily from the Herald 1200 but eventually arrived at ignition left, then wipers, headlights, and choke with the two lower holes for heater controls. This means that some of the cables must be extended, as the switches aren't in the same area any more, and not only that, the hardboard backing has to be cut to take different gauges in different places.

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    Simple enough, and I'll add suitable strengthening once these are cut out to help everything keep shape in the car. One interesting area is that of the ashtray; originally the 13/60 had it on top of the dash but the upholsterer is covering that up for me. I don't need an ashtray at all but it's a tempting area to play with. Consequently I've decided on a USB charger area, maybe two USB slots, and even a 12v socket in this area. The intention is for the ashtray fascia to look original, but will be held in place with magnets. Pull it away to expose the electronics; clip it back into place when finished. Looks fully original and simple to do. I want everything to look period if not original; it's the fun of sourcing the right bits that counts.

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    That will mean a few alterations to the loom yet again plus probably a fuse box fitted in behind. Again, I'm planning the best way to do it.

    Whilst that door is off, to enable me to paint the horrible black area around the A-post, I tried to work out why the glass will not wind all the way down. It goes down by 2/3 then stops. By dint of amazingly flexible and almost unnatural contortions I was able to see inside the door while the mechanism is turned and found that it hits off the quarterlight frame at a certain point, so sticks until serious force is used. This explains why the winder handle was broken when I bought the car. It also explains why the entire door frame flexes inwards as the handle is turned. Quarterlight frame and all winder mechanism out of the car it soon transpired that the rivets were so worn there was more sideways movement than up and down. The activating arm was also bent, no doubt as a result of more force being used to try to force the window up or down. 

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    The rivets - there are two per side - were fairly easily adjusted; drill a dimple into the end of each one, then insert a suitable-sized ball bearing and hit it with a hammer. This flares out the end of the rivet and shortens it so that it once again takes up the slack. The winder arm has been straightened and should be better than before.

    With the quarterlight out I had to replace the rubber seal and address the rusty nut and bolt with which the frame had been held on.

    Easily removed but a suitable replacement has always been difficult to find. There's a seller on eBay selling uprated fixings which screw into each other over a brass spacer; I bought a set of these for about £20 and am well impressed. Two plastic washers, two metal, one spaced one male screw and one female fixing. Very very tidy and works well.

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    The quarterlight window is a bit springy at present, inclined to burst open, but that's because the seal is so new and needs to bed in. It'll keep the rain out in any case. I also replaced the runners; mine were badly distorted and the lining was past its' best, so that the glass rattled whilst going over bumps. Did you know that the bar from a common-or-garden door handle is the right square profile for straightening these out in a vice?

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    New seals fitted, which have made the glass quite stiff to move, so a sneaky treatment of spray grease will help things initially. No more rattles, hopefully!

    Next job was to replace one of the rear overriders whilst the fuel tank is out. I had a replacement sitting ready so all I had to do was attach rubber seals. I'm using 3/8 threaded bar instead of bolts so if it ever needs to come out again it should be a simpler job.

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    It takes around 6 inches so the two 12 inch lengths I have here will do four. Those cost me £8 including postage. In the meantime the fuel tank has returned from Fuel-Tank Renu, also known as Brownlow Radiators - blasted, repainted and ethanol-proofed with a lifetime guarantee. The little brass plate proves they did the work and gives reference data. They also found my missing full-width radiator, which they've had since January 2022, but recored and uprated it for me for only £50.

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    So that's us almost up to date. Some spraying, a little bit of welding, rewiring and reassembly should see us back on the road by March. Plus the re-veneering of the dashboard once all the holes have been cut to the correct size. To be honest I'm starting to wonder why - we've no events planned, no-one seems to want to attend shows or static displays any more, it looks like we won't be having a Triumph Show this year... I can see me moving closer to some of the local Clubs who have shows and fun days quite close to home. I do love me coffees and burgers in a tent in a field, whilst watching the local yobs trying to pull shiny bits off me car...

    Hi Colin the 3/8 threaded bar . This if AF ? 
    Paul 

  3. 18 hours ago, Phil C said:

    I can't see why it wouldn't work pulling air out.

    I think you are bound to get a lot more overspray working at these higher pressures but agree experience will also have an impact.

    I used a Fuji Mini Mite which provides a constant 9.5 psi so paint wastage was very much minimised. I think this type of sprayer was developed for the furniture/kitchen trade, ie to be used indoors with water based paints, where overspray needed to be kept to an absolute minimum. A mate sprayed his Healey with one, got great results and recommended it to me. 

    Hi Phil , re extraction didn’t know if there was an explosion risk with the blower and vapour  / motor sparks 

    Paul 

  4. 37 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    not used one for years but a HVLP makes a lot ess oversray and worth investigation 

     

    on the Vit6 some years ago we just stapled a diy poly tent over the car inside the garage 

    wet the floor and sprayed away for not too long  it worked ok 

    with a sprayers overall and face mask of the day   so suited and booted 

    Pete

     

    Thanks Pete I am using an HVLP gun though some of the overspray will be down to my in experience 

    Paul 

  5. Hi Phil . Thanks for advice and the comments preferring extraction over pressurising as I might be able to do this . My setup is an SIP oil free compressor which is low noise 57db  with Deviblis entry level HVLP gun currently set at 28psi. I’m sure a lot of the overspray ( turns into paint dust and currently settling everywhere ) is down to my inexperience . Perhaps an obvious ? Can your air mover safely be used for extraction as well as pressurising . 
    Paul 

  6. On 07/08/2022 at 18:35, Phil C said:

    I sprayed my Vitesse with Celly last year and for what its worth this is what I did.

    I made a timber frame/polythene booth inside my garage (Lucky to have a double but could be done in a single?)

    I made it as small as possible - just big enough to hold the tub with space to spray it.

    I bought a pair of spray booth filters and made a filter box to suck air through. This was connected to the booth via a Sealey air mover and hose. This positively pressurised the booth ensuring no dust/flies etc would get in through gaps and cracks. An exhaust was provided using a piece of plastic pipe to the driveway.

    It worked very well as I had no problems with dust/flies etc.

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    Hi Phil . With your spray booth set up does the positive pressure reduce / eliminate overspray / misting ? Also the exhaust is there a noticeable smell from the vapours and enough to annoy neighbours . I’m looking at a similar setup though based on your info looking at a 10 ins fan 

    Paul 

  7. 2 hours ago, Iain T said:

    If I don't win the Fleabay I'll buy from the shop. Auction ends today although I'm not experienced on bidding. 

    Hi Ian  , suggest signing up to Esnipe or similar . They do the bidding in the final 5 secs , you pay a very small fee if you are successful 

    Paul 

    • Thanks 1
  8. 41 minutes ago, PeteH said:

    Well, This is what it`s supposed to be?. But from my Eye`s, definitely more Green than Paul`s. The can got "lost" in my Garage since before Lockdown, and was discovered last week in the post Xmas Clearout. IF the can cap is suposed to representative, then I cannot see it?. Initially, I thought it might be a lack of "depth" but there are at least 4 full coats there. I may try cutting and polish just to see what transpires?.

    image.png.3b4e8b5f3298815157cc661ab7222ce4.png

    Pete

    Not sure the cap is colour coordinated as you have the colour details overlaid . I’ve used the same spray can and the door was sprayed with celly from a 5 litre can from the club shop ( 4 coats ) 

    Paul 

     

    • Like 1
  9. 2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Brand new unfitted; the support would be removed after fitting. There's also a brand new Herald bodytub in Nottingham, I'm almost on the point of attaching the trailer and driving over.

    Hi Colin I think you will find the wings are the new bit and the rest of the tub will need attention eg the wheel well is shot 

    Paul 

  10. 11 minutes ago, trigolf said:

    Paul, do you mean Comma DOT 5.1, rather than DOT 5? 

    I think I'm right that they are not the same. DOT 5.1 is synthetic, but not silicone.

    Thanks and now understand . My clutch slave is leaking and considering moving across to Dot 5 . OKE dot 5 looks best value 

    Paul 

  11. 3 minutes ago, johny said:

    Ah must be different from what they offer now which dont mention limited numbers or NOS and I reckon will have been very expensive😭

    Apologies Johny

    This overrider is suitable for the Triumph Herald range & Vitesse range. This item is brand new and is pressed off the OE press tool .

    It will fit on the left hand side of the car.”
    I’ll pamper them even more now 
    Paul 
  12. 2 minutes ago, trigolf said:

    If you've got a super strong magnet,try getting as close as you can to bellhousing base- chances are its sitting at the bottom already. Drag your magnet slowly around the outside of b/housing. Listen very carefully. If you're lucky, you might hear a 'click' as the washer is attacted to the magnet thro the alloy. If so slowly 'drag' the magnet back up to the hole in the housing. Its worth a try.

    Gav

    Thanks Gav , certainly worth a try as I do have a powerful magnet though the washer is stainless with some magnetism 

    Paul

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