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Paul H

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Posts posted by Paul H

  1. 12 hours ago, clive said:

    Another vote for the baby denso alternators. I have them on my Ford powered spitfire and my toledo, both been faultless and despite being "only" 40A they will run a car in winter for 48 straight, so all through the nights with heater, lights, spotlamps etc all running. 

    Beware the copies, they are not great. 

    Re starter, the 4 cylinder ars seem to be fine with the original starters, but the supply of decent ones is getting thin. Colin got lucky with NOS ones, but if yours is playing up and you want to have the engine whizz over on the starter, the Club shop may be a good place? RAC401 is the part number, although RAC 414 is the number the manufacturer recommends (go figure!)

    Have a look here. 

     

    Another vote for Hi Torque RAC401 - Worth every penny 

    Paul 

  2. 12 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

    Paul,

    I got that exact same one! A good buy and a useful tool. I still like my lighter-fuel powered one which doesn't have a trailing cable, but needs 5 minutely topping up. Swings and roundabouts!

    Doug

     

    I’ve got a Lidl gas soldering iron but takes ages to get hot . 
    Paul 

  3. 1 minute ago, NonMember said:

    Your proposed wiring colours aren't quite right.

    The IG terminal should be a white wire to the ignition switch - connecting to the coil +ve may work but taking it all the way to either the fuse box or the switch would be better.

    The L terminal should really be brown/yellow direct to the warning light. The existing brown/yellow at the dynamo goes to the control box and there's a second brown/yellow from there to the bulb, so you'd probably want to disconnect them both from the control box and bridge them together. This matches the wiring colours used on GT6 Mk3 with an alternator from the factory.

    The $ terminal is a "sense" terminal and doesn't directly correspond to any of the dynamo wires. Brown/green may be usable (it was the field connection) but plain brown is more technically correct and, as the note says, it should ideally go to the battery but across to the big B terminal post will work.

    Many thanks 

    Paul 

  4. 1 minute ago, Piglet said:

    Meet Lora. Just drove her home, a bit eventful as it's been years since I've been in one! A few pics.

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/4o9FAMo.jpg[/img]

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/S8KuKss.jpg[/img]

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/EFFdphY.jpg[/img]

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/tD49Nqi.jpg[/img]

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/rWhPZvR.jpg[/img]

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/4i7IUhO.jpg[/img]

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/cQcn603.jpg[/img]

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/avojiiU.jpg[/img]

    Alex

    Hi Alex , couldn’t get the pics 

    Paul

  5. Just trial fitting my new Denso Alternator part no 16404 40amp to my Vitesse . It’s so small and light 

    09B21043-2289-4C3C-80F3-8ED614E84DAB.thumb.jpeg.15ac8f0800a65674b67f112475973f63.jpeg

    I have removed the Dynamo bracket and using a tube spacer trial fitted to get the alignment image.thumb.jpg.4456c1b5d18deeaef9452df94b5c5f8f.jpg

    note . The spacer tube is on the wrong side of the alternator !!!!!!!
     

    Using an old fan belt I cut the belt and re measured and ordered a 1050 belt which should fit ok . I’ve added a 40 amp cable which will fit on on a post on the  alternator . The cable goes direct to the battery positive. The post is next to the triple socket 

    0195D12C-CFDB-4A15-A722-C37483148D6C.thumb.jpeg.330f185b222ba166b2b1adfafccb7028.jpeg
    The alternator has 3 connections 

    $ which goes direct to battery - Planning to use Brown/Yellow 

    IG - Do I need to run an additional cable from the ignition switch  ?????

    L - ignition warning light - planning to use Brown/Green 

    Nb there is a note saying L is optional and the alternator will run ok without it 

    is this ok ? 

    I know I have to rewire the Regulator 

    Any input welcomed 

    image.thumb.jpg.238aff6c4d9b65cd8331094be96a44ac.jpg

    Paul 

  6. 8 minutes ago, PatK said:

    Hi everyone, we have just returned from a great afternoon drive in the Vitesse, which was spoilt by the banging and crashing from the rear suspension that was giving a rock hard ride. The car when purchased was fitted with Spax adjustable dampers and despite setting them on fully soft they are really hard and probably not working too well, so I would like to replace them with simple, non adjustable shocks, but of a good quality, such as Koni or Monroe. So folks the question is do you know which rear shocks are correct with a reference number,and a direct replacement for the rotoflex, rear extension bracket chassis? Also where I might be able to purchase them.  It was sad to see that the club only stocks the expensive adjustable ones and not the simple original type ones, I don't need an adjustable damper as I don't race or rally and mainly just potter about when the weather permits. Thanking you in advance for your help. 

    Pat.

    I’ve got the Club set up with Gaz adjustable . Set to level 2 they are spot on . Any higher the rear passenger gets bounced everywhere 

    Paul 

  7. Material cost are affordable . I bought headlining for my sons MGB gt costing £15 per metre . Sun roof vinyl is approx £30 per metre which is more than enough for a sunroof.

    Sunroof already cut out costs £150 .
     

    Complete sunroof replacement ie vinyl roof and headlining £750 plus .

    Paul 

  8. Picked this up from Facebook

    Not sure how good etc but here goes 

    ——————————

    Triumph Herald Trim
    Being a long standing herald owner and even longer standing Motor Trimmer, who worked on these cars whilst still in production, I would like to say, if any one is looking to retrim their seats, but horrified at the prices now for replacement seat cover kits from the established 'specialists' I can make these to order at a much more realistic price. As the  price of everything is rocketing at present, any help to keep costs down can only help to keep these beloved treasures going and in good condition. I can offer the 1200 12/50 seat covers front and rear for £325 + £20 p&p   and the 13/60  /  Vitesse seat covers front and rear at £350 +£20 p&P ( with the traditional pleated flutes ) Available for saloon and convertable.
    I know many of you will prefer to buy from traditional sources and thats fine, but many of those 'Specialists' don't make them themselves, they send them out to 3rd party companies so adding more layers of cost. I operate on a small individual order basis, so naturally I don't expect or try to compete with the 'big guys' but if you want to save roughly half the cost just PM me or email me on itsjustrim@gmail.com for more details

    —————

    Paul

     

    • Like 3
  9. I removed gearbox and overdrive on my own in my Vitesse . I removed the passenger seat and door to make the job easier . Support the engine with a suitable jack . I used old rugs to cover the floor and a piece of ply to act as a skid for the gearbox . I’ll dig out my forum posts as I modded the solenoid fixing bolt to allow it to be changed in situ 

    Paul

    check out this link 

     

  10. 4 minutes ago, Quack said:

    My dreadful attempt lol…not much of an artist 😂 what’s the best way to smooth these bumps out and blend them in once dried? Polish?

    0EA922A5-4C06-4FD9-8983-41BCEA7E1DB3.jpeg

    There’s a lot of orange peel there plus surface marks . You might to be able to recover with wet n dry starting with 400 grit then 600, 800, maybe 1000grit  then I use Farecia FinishingG10, then G3 liquid compound then G3 wax 

    Paul 

  11. I removed my Vitesse gearbox and overdrive single handed . It’s a pain though with one seat removed and old rugs covering the area went ok . Took out the passenger door and seat .the weight is about 50kgs . You need to Jack up the engine enough to clear the prop . I used thin scrap ply over the rugs to act as a skid 

    Paul 

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