Colin Lindsay

As Clive says they just stop the body flexing up and down in the middle as the car goes over bumps. Lots of cars used them, in different designs - see photo. The doors open and close as normal, but are stopped from pulling forwards against the catch. Herald ones are almost the same as TR7, which are sometimes easier to find if anyone needs any.

Works in some things, but not all, I'd be paranoid that the electricity would find another earth point and as usual, something that would melt or go on fire. (If you've ever had a Herald choke or heater cable heat up due to a bad engine earth you'll understand) Personally I'd remove it from the system completely but I'm over-cautious.

You know one of those questions you've always meant to ask but never got round to it? Well, I got round to it. What's this bit? I got one years ago in an exhaust kit for a Herald, couldn't work out where it went, and have since found a second in a collection of spare parts, but it's not in any parts manual that I can find. Anyone know what it is and where exactly it goes?

No such thing any more, it's all been done before. Anyway what did they call it before they asked the Spanish-speakers what THEY called it?

Does it have a lower half? Maybe that's why... Hi Kelv, welcome to the forum, great car (love Herald 1200s) but show us the rest of it!!

Nobody's mentioned Gasket Remover yet, spray it on, let it soak in, the gasket just falls off. No damage to the metal behind.

Never had that happen to me. I didn't think they could drive that slowly.

If I couldn't find a ready-made version I'd buy one of these in 5/8 UNF then drill and retap the smaller side aperture to M10. Just make sure that the smaller output is smaller than M10 to allow for the drilling and tapping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LMA-Gauge-Sender-Unit-Short-Adaptor-M10-x-1-Female-To-5-8-UNF-Male/362531177855 If I've read that right the M10 female takes the new gauge connector and the 5/8 male screws into the block.

Some of the springs break or become slack and they can be hard to find, plus the specialists seem to be able to clean the carb bodies in a way that I've never been able to.

Well, it does say TOP.... but as with all things Triumph I would have guessed, without seeing that, that the slots were at the bottom to let water out...

They should have wound them forward....

That's a brace of boobies.

Coffee works for me; 'Er indoors is on the settee with a blanket, stove blazing AND a hot water bottle. And she's STILL cold. Outdoors is lovely in the sun with the frost crunching underfoot. I was out tidying the garage and sorting out various parts and it's warm enough, but the other roofspace above the old garage is freezing and the electric blow heater is rubbish. If anyone is ever looking to buy one avoid the £15 rubbish from Tescos on the left - that flat vent thingy that can be laid flat or stood upright, and go for the round version at £19, which is far better. My daughter swapped them a while back, I can now see why, so I've just gone and swapped them back again. If I'm only in the roofspace for fifteen minutes I can't be bothered waiting for the thinner heater to warm up. I'd warm the room faster just by breathing out.

Just my own curiosity, Roger... too cold to do anything else this morning except keep warm and drink coffee but it's something I'd like to know, just in case. I've a spare 3.63 diff in the garage and might use it some day, especially since the GT6 diff has started to whine at low speeds.

That's an excellent read but doesn't cover the late models with the collapsible spacer; I've read so many accounts over the last few days of how to set them up, but nothing concrete that I could post to help Roger with the certainly of being the proper method.

How come I can never manage to get a grip on one? Always lose my £1...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITAX-AN-1400-Seatbelt-Anchor-Classic-Car-BMW-MG-BMC-MORRIS-TRIUMPH-Etc/274603922469?hash=item3fefab5425:g:I~QAAOSwaspeyqs-

You haven't seen it yet. Might be the booby prize....

The sump drain looks like one of the Allen-key types; I've got one myself in the Herald sump. Yours might require a new copper sealing washer but otherwise they're ok.

Good price, given that there's a used pair on eBay for £19.99.

Finger tight for the side axle plates to case; I've never torqued them. No need to overtighten but they seem good enough when tightened by hand along with a new spring washer. Hypoid housing is the differential carrier ie the bit with all the gears; rear axle is the rear case where the side axles attach so yes you're correct. For the front collapsible spacer, I think (never had one myself) and none of my manuals are that modern!

Yep, last time I was in the Top Gear Museum it was almost concours. I pinched the headlamp cowls for my own 1200.

From the Triumphspitfire.com site: torque settings:

I almost bought a S/H one at Stoneleigh a few years back (I think £45 so I was sorely tempted); it would have had the backwards-facing braces that go on either sides of the rear sear, with possible mods required. Then I looked at the side profile of the Herald and decided against it. I just didn't think it would suit the car.