Colin Lindsay

As long as it wasn't these offerings: I binned one and the other three are still in their boxes, where they'll stay.

GT6 boot floor - different fuel tank, but maybe same panel below?

That's what I was thinking; on my old one the two terminals are the same with no identifying markings. I've just nipped out and double checked but the two terminals are the same, no marks on end plate or case. On the new one the green/white is marked A and the brown, B. It's just my luck that as soon as I make a choice, someone will post: "DO NOT under any circumstances connect the **** wire to earth..." (I've just checked the TR Register forum and they state the O/D solenoid is not supposed to be polarity sensitive so connect either way.)

Interesting bit on that schematic about 'testing for ground on one solenoid terminal'... but doesn't say how to do it. I just need to identify which is earth and I'm happy. Any way to tell by using a multi-meter?

It was listed by the seller as Triumph TR6 / Stag / 2500 / 2000 and Dolomite Sprint but I've checked most of those online and their wiring is all either black / yellow or plain green. No trace of anything similar on Volvos either. The plug-in end connection points to something modern, or more so than our Triumphs. It's just not my day; what should have been a simple fit has left me with an unidentified solenoid, no gearbox oil and a replacement tunnel from the Club Shop that has turned out to be a Herald version, not GT6. This car hates me.

No, didn't leak at all so might just go for copper again. From the look of it, this is the first time it's ever been removed. The new solenoid has arrived and it's slightly different; leads are sealed inside the body as opposed to external spade connectors but the brass end is exactly the same. Connections here are green / white and brown - which one should I use as earth? (Am thinking brown but like to check first) Does it even matter?

I had a lake..... removed the solenoid, small dribble emerged, so I wasn't too worried when it slowed to a drip. Overnight though it must have really erupted. I've managed to remove the circlip and a small brass cap with spring has reluctantly come out, but the plunger will not shift now at all. Not even the small movement I had before when connected to the battery. If the new one arrives I can refit and refill, but one question: what washer does it require? The original had a plain copper washer, but I've been reading a lot of posts on dozens of forums and some are saying it requires a dowty washer?

I remember that a few years back we were being told that stocks of the paper air filters were going to run out, so there was a mad scramble for replacements including K&Ns; re-useable filters that could be cleaned rather than replaced. I did it on both my MK3 and Mk1, but then found that getting hold of K&N Cleaning fluid was more difficult than finding paper filters, so reverted back again and just buy replacement filters when they appear online at a good price. I did often wonder how reverting to even older oil and wire filters would affect the running...

I meant no noise or movement when shaken, Peter, it clicks as the video when powered up but no rattling when I shake it. No 'Pete's Maracas'...

Thanks Clive. Nick / Badger: do they come in a box with any kind of brand name, or manufacturer's mark?

No noise, no movement. Completely solid. By the way - who was it that posted recently about removing a solenoid, and I quote: "You'll only get a thimblefull of oil..." I've just gone out to the garage and met an entire pool of gearbox oil on the floor... mine has emptied completely. I think I misread that post...

Who are these repro jobs coming from? We need to identify the supplier(s) and notify them of a bad batch. Am I correct in that someone stripped one down earlier to find the differences between the new ones and the originals?

How far should it move, Pete? I found that video on Youtube and it's exactly what mine is doing. I'll maybe try to find a minute later today and see if I can improve things any.

My GT6 positively hates me, and is never happy until it's drawn blood. I knew a horse like it once, it learned that if it made a total hash of jumping it was put back into the stable where it lazed about and got food. My GT6 hates those nasty roads and so has learned that if it stays broken, it'll never go out on the road again. I just have to show it who is boss. Wish me luck.

Mine does this now that it's removed and bench tested with a battery....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-GT6-Thermostat-Housing/164330374886?hash=item2642da86e6:g:desAAOSwETBeXXCh Might help, unless it's too crusty to have a good seal on the hoses and you really want a new one?

Great job. Many thanks!

Mk1 doesn't use it; it may have been an upgrade to later models after deficiencies were found in the early setup but on my Mk1 there's only two pipes to the rad and two to the thermostat housing. Original cores on early cars of the period sometimes only have one pipe running from top to bottom; other versions have two thinner ones where you have fit two pipes fitted into the depth originally occupied by one. Modern cores using more modern manufacturing techniques are more efficient so I had mine upgraded to three pipes; effectively you've got three banks of pipes running top to bottom so more surface area for cooling. I found this diagram on the Net which helps illustrate:

The Herald chassis is awaiting spraying in one corner, four recently blasted Herald wheels are being repainted in the middle of the floor, I'm welding and grinding out wear marks in Herald backplates in another corner, the GT6 is stripped out yet again waiting for an overdrive solenoid which is not going to be delivered in time for the next run and the Herald estate tub is being treated for tub sag in the final remaining corner. ...and you guys want me to start something new?Might as well...

No, that's Redex. But you're right, there's a component in some additives, I think called Ferrocene, that makes them go pink. My Herald spark plugs were pink originally, anyway...

Mine arrived too, immensely heavy box which was all the more amazing for being sold with free carriage... let me know if you find any problems, difficulties or tips!

Just had a look at that stuff on eBay, plus the different brand in Richard's link: I may go for that one and try it; as usual I have a great mate who works in fibreglass and repairs parts such as my hardtop for the price of biccies, so I've never had to dabble with the stuff myself. I think it's time I learned the process! I'll update as things progress.

I like the sound of that! (Although have a club ABS version coming for the GT6) Any particular type of 'I'm-not-sure-or-too-lazy-to-search-myself' brand you recommend?

I had pondered that, Peter - although the one on the left in the photo has a large crack along the top edge of the tunnel bulge (just visible in the centre where I have black tape over it) the other one in the lower photo is actually quite good and might work with a coat of fibreglass. There has to be some kind of brush-on coating that will seal and strengthen it. I've already purchased new seals for when it gets to the fitting stage.

Well, as no-one else has commented... just start the engine and test it that way; cranking over on the starter won't get enough pressure to really show any leaks. It may also require heat to expand the metal and allow any gas to escape; but by the time it's hot enough to expand then spraying soapy water on it won't really identify any problem area. If you suspect it's the manifold then it'll take a lot of careful inspection for marks to identify the actual problem area. You could maybe - and this is just me wondering out loud - run the engine until warm then block the exhaust temporarily whilst watching the manifold closely for escaping gases or increased noise, but don't block it for so long that it stalls. Don't use anything that may catch fire! I broke a cast manifold in two bits on the way home from a show at Stirling in the early 2000s, it was unfixable so I had to replace it with a tubular manifold.