Colin Lindsay

It won't, really. We've had all sorts of scare stories over the decades - loss of leaded, ethanol in petrol, high emission penalties, lack of safety 'gadgets', conversion to electric, conversion to steam, conversion to pedal power... they come and go and prices, whilst there has been a boom from time to time with misguided investors looking to make money, stabilise somewhere around the middle where they've always been. People have been panicked into selling - 'quick, before we're stuck with a car we can't use and can't sell'... and then a few years later have wondered what all the fuss was about. When we got zero road tax it was going to lead to hooligans buying classics as they were cheap, and their boy-racer driving would get us all banned; when the MOT exemption came in all the old unroadworthy cars causing serious accidents were going to get us all banned... We can't see the future but I doubt I'll lose any sleep about being forced off the road any day soon.

Well done, health to drive, and get it out there for what's left of the summer.

£2200 or make offer?

Have ordered a replacement, £140 plus £6 postage. Couldn't be bothered faffing about with adding VAT to both purchase price and carriage like many suppliers do - even the Chris Witor version at £110 ends up over £140 all in, so just went for a buy-it-now on eBay. I've stripped the interior out yet again and tested the circuit; power gets to the solenoid in 3rd with the switch on, and stops when I flick the switch off, so the solenoid is definitely dead. I may repair it to destruction when it's removed, just for the fun. No more fuse-blowing, though - I may have cured that issue but will only be really certain once the new solenoid is fitted and works.

I rebushed the gear lever a fortnight ago and to be honest almost wore it out last week, looking for another gear... I'm in 4th, looking for 5th, then thinking because it seems to be revving so high maybe I'm really in second so down to 3rd and back to 4th again, just to be sure... my rear carb is running rich, plugs are a bit sooty so that requires adjustment; front is fine. If the new solenoid arrives anyway soon I'll have overdrive again by the weekend. It's just so much more relaxing.

Well, that has been a strange time in the garage - the white gearbox tunnel in the photo above has gone completely, never to be found again... no idea where as it was only removed from that Herald in May, but the Gremlins must have it. I have managed to locate what looks like a Herald ABS version in grey, which has been lined with very heavy carpet but no heatproofing. I've also found a number of original cardboard versions, but this one is strange - the first 3/4 from the propshaft end forwards is what looks like fibreglass, very thin but rigid, however the area around the tunnel flange at the bulkhead appears to be cardboard. Weird... it's not thick enough round the gearlever aperture to be coated card all the way along. I may therefore end up ordering one of the Club shop ABS versions for the GT6, but will heatproof it with DeadMat; any thoughts on additional sound insulation over and above that?

Plenty of fresh grease and I've no idea of the size of your hands but the tip of my little finger goes into the cap to rotate them all about and clear a space for any remaining.

I've just checked, and it's ok: Specsavers deliver..

I had the GT6 rad recored and uprated to modern spec for about £120; there's bound to be a local company near you that can do the same. The Radtek versions look good but they're about £450. This one is already uprated and seems like a good price, plus only £30 surcharge: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Gt6-Radiator-Extra-Cooling-Core-High-Efficiency/324143374526?hash=item4b787360be:g:VCEAAOSwstxU8Z4T

That's good mpg; my GT6 did 180 miles on Saturday and used about 3/4 of a tank. I've no overdrive at present so 70 is about 4000 rpm too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dodo-Mat-deadening-proofing-vibration/dp/B07NDGTT1F/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dodo+dead+mat+hex&qid=1597084592&s=automotive&sr=1-2 I've just ordered this from Amazon for the gearbox tunnel; seems well recommended.

If you've ever watched an 'Elf and Safety Inspector at work, it's scary, however I reckon it would be more the Insurance Company who would query in the event of any claim. It's been done - and documented before - on this forum; I haven't read these posts fully, Roger, but hope they help somewhat. The post by Gengis shows a frame in place behind the seat. http://vitesse.no/Garage 2005-2006.html

My mother's Nursing Home is like that, too.

Spitfire 1500? First thing is to soundproof anything you can reach! Makes for a quieter and possibly cooler driving experience. I'm not sure whether to advise you to fit and seal the gearbox tunnel at this point; it's easier to do with all else out of the way but does take up a lot of room. After that, heater or wipers, they're usually tight to the bodywork. Washer piping to jets, leave extra length to the pump and only cut when you're sure it's all routed properly. Heater control cables and any other metal cable that goes through the bulkhead can be fitted and sealed properly then just pushed through the dashboard from behind. String the wiring loom and cable tie it so that each part hangs where it can be easily attached to switches or clocks without being stretched or pulled; same with speedo drive. Cables such as door switches for courtesy lights are more easily threaded when there's nothing else in the way and again cable tie them to stop them being pulled back if anything else catches on them before you get the switches attached. Wooden dash will be near the finish. Glove boxes and trim will obviously be last. This is all just off the top of my head and may vary from car to car, and you'll always find some component or other that gets in the way of something else. Be prepared for skinned knuckles!

I've been reading this as my last removal of the original cardboard version on the GT6 resulted in a lot of cracking and a few bits dropping off. That one in Ian's post looks very flimsy? I've been using a really solid type on the Herald - it came off a Damson-coloured 1200 hence the overspray but is a very good fit and so thick (but light) that it deadens a lot of noise. You can see how thick it is around the end of the propshaft. It looks almost lined with some kind of spray-on foam. How does this compare with the fibreglass versions? It's up in the garage loft waiting for my Herald to be ready but I can take a few better photos if necessary.

That really made a difference to my GT6 brakes; they were badly adjusted before, and took two pumps of the pedal to operate. Once I adjusted them properly they made a world of difference. Check the end of the brake pedal where it joins to the master cylinder under the rubber boot; the hole here wears oval and can sometimes need a surprisingly large movement of the pedal before operating the master cylinder.

Just to confirm it's an NKC41? Most suppliers list it for Sprint, TR6, Stag and 2000 / 2500 so I'll need it for an 1850 gearbox? Really missed it on the run yesterday, 180 miles at 4000 rpm would have been quieter at 3500 rpm...

The horn works by earthing the system and on original horn pushes there's a metal strip which contacts the end of the pencil. Handy if you're using the original steering wheel but not if you use an aftermarket version. It doesn't really affect anything if you make up a flexible connection from the centre button to the horn pencil; I have it on my own system, with a ring terminal rivetted to the centre of the push mechanism then a short wire soldered to the end of the pencil. Provided it's done properly it won't change the operation of the push button. The other part of the connection is just visible in the photo, the spring that completes the circuit. You need both or nothing will happen. The horn push itself is just a plate but the spring sits proud of the outside of the button assembly and makes contact with the steering wheel itself, so when you push the button you complete the circuit. I don't see any spring, or secondary contact, on yours to complete the circuit?

Hope you get the weather we did. I'm burned red and was grateful for a roof! The scenery was amazing, especially the views over that lovely bonnet...

Me too. I'm still waiting for a Next Day Delivery from last week. All I can see as a result of improved technology is that they'll be able to tell you, much more quickly, that the item you require is not in stock.

I've been using them for over 20 years; yellow for the suspension wishbones, red for radius arms, blue on the diff and orange on the anti-roll bar and steering rack. Just a totally multi-cultural Triumph!

That's all it does, so if you're worried about the float making noises when full or empty, fit a good O-ring round the float - good meaning fuel resistant, not another of those cheap foreign-made things that dissolve in rainwater.

I have yellow and orange ones; yellow are quite hard and orange softer but not as soft as blues. Reds are very hard, I use them for radius arms on the GT6 and they're difficult to press into place.

You just beat me to it!! Jeff - tape your phone to a long stick like a brush shaft then with it recording have a passenger hold it out of the window and down beside the rear wheel. If the phone survives, let us hear what it records.

Don't forget the fuel pump. That's all I could hear today, chattering away even over the engine noise.