Colin Lindsay

If it kept another car on the road then it was worthwhile… senseless destruction of good cars i.e. banger racing are one thing; breaking an end-of-life car to save others helps us all. Done it myself more than once…

Come back…. come back…… the siren’s call is working. It’s in the blood, I’m afraid…. you’re hooked again. What do you reckon you’ll eventually buy?

And unless your paint is smooth, neither will stick... However with regards to removing the tank: as long as you removed the bracket for the boot stay, you’ll have gained the magic inch of clearance that it requires. With this still in place it’s well nigh impossible.

Cover your floors with heavy cardboard or carpet or you’ll lose a lot of paint in the process; it’s easier to slide the gearbox until you can get a good grip on it but the damage is already done by then.

Actually I was, not having looked at the Club shop device but just going by the name ‘Tracker'. Apologies for confusing the two! However, as with any theft these days, the criminals are becoming more and more sophisticated and with the influx of cheap technology from dodgy elements overseas, readily available over the Internet, you can scan / disable and thieve till your little heart’s content with very little risk. As we say over here: “A lock will only keep an honest man out…"

Eliminate each one in turn; it’s the only way you can trace the break or short. If you at least have oil and ignition lights there’s power somewhere, but it seems there’s a break somewhere along the system. Try moving or bending the loom that you can reach under or behind the dash; it may be that you can reconnect the circuits and this will point to where the problem lies. Make sure that nothing is getting dangerously hot, especially things like the choke cable if the engine is earthing through this due to nowhere else to go.

Merely a gimmick, Rabbit… no real intention of fitting them!

He rebuilt my GT6 diff two years ago and it was a lovely job. However as Clive says he can only work with the bits that he gets, so terminal wear in the CWP can be helped by proper settings to eke out a few more years on the road, but can’t be removed completely if the parts are too badly worn. With regards to the preload setting I’ve seen some supposedly reconditioned ones that were almost impossible to turn by hand.

Direct as regards vibration too… no rubber sandwich in the joint. I had one a few years ago but got rid of it fairly quickly; all of the road noise came straight to my hands.

I like the caption about a ‘thirty year old car using the benefits of modern technology”... Sounds a bit like some of the new cars on the market these days….

I knew a fisherman who was hard of herring… However: I’ve been debating doing this for a while, although I’ll see how the new LED bulbs perform in case the improved light is a better warning than before and I don’t need a beeper. I’ve already purchased beeper bulbs from Around-A-Pound (for £2????) that fit in the reversing light sockets and give an audible warning when reversing, to warn pedestrians. No idea how they sound so far, but they’re sitting on the bench waving to me… tempting me… go on.. I also saw, very recently, bulbs for the front fog lamps that emit a sound audible only to animals that will make them get off the road as you approach. “What’s that noise?” “No idea, I was watching that Triumph coming towards us…" Bump.

Pesky little beggars, aren’t they?

If, by any chance, you find anything incorrect - wires too long or too short, for example - let the seller know. I found the driver’s door courtesy wire on a Herald loom was about four feet too long, and notified the manufacturer with the correct length. He was very grateful as no-one had done that before, he had sold more than a few with the same dimensions, and no-one had ever told him he was using too much cable...

Never saw a mobile phone with twin headlights before… No Instructions or tools are provided for this listing.This is NOT an easy job for someone who has no technical skills with Disassembling or Assembling Cellphones/mobile phones So only purchase this item if you know how to install it.We will not be held responsible for any damages to your cellphone/mobile phone that you may cause during the changing of replacement parts.

Hmmm… just as easy to say that a faulty electrical pump can leak fuel unseen into the boot, with the added risk of a spark…

I’d attempt to knock it out from below rather the above in case it’s tapered... but some of the bell housings I have still have a pin a little bit down inside the hole, so yours may still be present. Get a replacement one with a head if you can, they don’t drop through.

Hi John; I never got round to replacing mine yet, not even after the kind advice you offered me back then…. definitely something I should do as a matter of urgency given the state of the old fuse box...

Wheeler Dealers' Ed China stated the other week that a servo increases the pressure at the brakes; I spent the next ten minutes complaining to ‘er indoors that it will give the same pressure at the brakes for less pedal pressure, so it doesn’t improve the braking, just the effort required. I was surprised to see Ed making this short of claim in the series.

T’were those that led my other half to query her Freelander taking longer to stop than previously; I took the pads out to find… there weren’t any. Just heavily grooved backing plates.

Not any more we don’t.

No Vitesse?? I presume that’s your new 2000 in the avatar then?

Trackers are good up to a point, but a professional criminal will scan for it before stealing the car. Our current local trend is for theft of high-end BMWs, criminals are arriving with a low loader and towing eye - they spray the road with diesel or engine oil, hook up the towing eye, pull the car over the oil and have it on the low loader and away in TWENTY seconds. They can then gain entry at their leisure, and using a device which fits into the OBD or diagnostic reader can recode a key fairly quickly. The car is then either sold or exported out of the UK. They can also zap trackers quite easily. I’d recommend one rather than not having any protection, but they’re not infallible. (Nor do they have a 100% recovery record as they claim; I know of one JCB that’s still outstanding despite the Tracker signal being detected over 10 miles from where it was being stored… it’s STILL outstanding.)

Use a good flexible mastic such as Stedflex; it doesn’t mark the paintwork and holds superbly.

I used the HVLP system on my Herald coupe and it was so easy to use. I made a huge mess of the garage painting my 1200 Estate with a standard paint gun and compressor, but the Apollo Spraymate was brilliant. I’d recommend them for the home painter.

Given the description of some of the Triumph cars advertised recently - “stunning condition and fully restored” for one that had visible rust, overspray and a host of incorrect parts in the advert - I’d not be surprised about the description of some component parts either… but at least we’re good at spotting them before we bid! I do pity the poor souls that actually DO bid, though...