Colin Lindsay

Think of it this way: the tub has spread out and is wider at the top than the bottom. Doors which hang vertically now stick out at the bottom, as they’re further out at the top to match the B post profile. If you pull the top of the tub inwards, this will allow the doors to move towards the vertical again and so the bottoms will pull in to match the new profile. Think of the body like this: \_/ and if I add doors: |\_/| you can visualise how narrowing the top would pull the two vertical sides closer in. Of course if your doors are improperly skinned they may not be the correct profile at all; the skin should be folded around the door frame and fitted to the car and twisted - often substantially - to fit the profile of the body and the door gaps. Only then should it be welded. If it’s been welded off the car then any distortion will not be a permanent part of the structure.

My favourite solution to all things Triumph….

First site I went on the Net - http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/gt6/GT6specifications.htm - claims 4.5 litres for the MK1. The second - http://www.oocities.org/rotoflex/gt6-oem.htm - claims 6.2 litres or 11 pints for all three models. Otodata listed it as a 2-door convertible sports car… so I ignored them. John Thomason’s ‘Guide to Originality’ lists capacity as 6.5 litres and to be honest I can’t see how they’d miss out on two entire litres, although possibly this smaller capacity is for a car with no heater system fitted? I suspect the radiator was the same for all three models so no smaller version fitted; cooling was marginal enough and if this had been the case we’d see a lot more owners looking for the larger radiator to retrofit earlier models. Aidan - as long as yours isn’t air locked, and the heater is working well (and you have the correct radiator!) - then I’d try to flush it to see if there’s any kind of blockage around the system, particularly around the engine block. HOWEVER - and that’s block capitals as it’s a BIG however: are you sure you had yours totally empty when you refilled it? It’s easy enough to simply drain the radiator, without draining the block and heater as well, so this may account for the two litres already in there.

Hard to tell without seeing it, Doug, but if it was me and I was in any doubt, I’d replace. I’d be the worrying type and while it may soldier on for a while yet I’d always be wondering when it was going to fail.

If they were common, I’d never have bought any in the first place… However this often makes me laugh, when I see Triumphs at shows labelled “the only one in the UK’… and of course, the prices on any marked “For Sale” also raise a smile.

Always nice to have, there’s a great feeling of nostalgia with these old books, especially when you find one in the bottom of a box at an autojumble and it’s of no use or interest to the seller but a great find for a Triumph owner.

Herald headlamp cowlings in stainless… nice but heavy…. but as I mentioned in an earlier thread on the subject I’d love to see Herald overriders, particularly rear ones, in some kind of material that doesn’t rust from the moment they’re fitted.

I do hate that sort of ad soooo much; so does eBay and some of the advertisers have had their accounts suspended as being against the rules. I’d be tempted to advertise as ‘breaking Spitfire 1500’ and let prospective purchasers make contact and ask if a specific part is available; even advertising a few parts as a ’normal’ eBay advert may surprise you as to what is sought-after and what parts will sell. Even a rusty chassis, sold as ‘collection only’ can be useful for restoration or repair sections, so don’t throw anything out until you’ve tried to advertise it first.

Silly question, and not wanting to insult your intelligence: you’re sure it’s not just tyre noise? I’ve had to swap tyres over on moderns more than once when new tyres made too much noise on one axle but quietened down on the other… just a thought!

I think the OP wanted either a Herald or Vitesse? Nice though the GT6 may be and practical as the 2.5 saloon is, they’re totally unlike the Herald or Vitesse in either drive quality or owner experience. I think Mike’s answer is the most sensible; go to the show and see how it actually feels to sit in one. Personally I love the Herald for the simplicity of maintenance and the unique driving experience.. good basic motoring.

Yes, I know what you mean... but a modern car would be full of modern refinements and not using 1960s technology or parts; which I feel are part of the attraction. That’s why I love them…. real pumping valves and diaphragms in a fuel pump, not just electronics. Solid-state electronics spoiled the fun of working parts; almost like clockwork toys vs battery-power. And, in particular - no sensors in an original Triumph - hooray!! (Bane of my life... O2 sensors, ‘intelligent’ suspension sensors, brake sensors… hate ‘em!)

Fuel starvation? It may not be at the engine end! If so, suspect something blocking the fuel lines, so remove, flush and replace, and maybe fit an inline filter; make sure all breathers are unblocked. Something is building up to breaking point as the car drives, but then after a period of sitting idle - draining back? - it works again. Try that angle and see if things improve.

They wouldn’t be making a 1960s car in 2015, so it’s a moot point. I don’t mind upgraded lights, alternator, polybushes or electronic ignition - and yes even modern windscreen glass - but I do bite my lip when faced with a type 9 gearbox / Subaru diff / Mazda engine / Rover seated offering that the owner claims is better than original. Sometimes it would be more original to put a Triumph bonnet on a modern and call it a Triumph… It’s the owner’s prerogative, but similarly if I don’t want to, I don’t like being called dangerous, unreliable and Luddite.. and that’s just ME…. so it’s up to personal choice.

Take care - that’s the only real advice! However: covering the hole with masking tape can help alleviate the damage caused by the gun moving abruptly when the trigger is pulled but have you ever used a short length of brake pipe or other metal pipe over the rivet shaft? This holds the rivet away from the gun nozzle, and if there’s a snap, the gun is half an inch or so away from the paintwork. Dipping the rivets in grease or Waxoyl also helps rustproof them when fitted.

It’s a learning curve.. but all the more satisfying when you work it out. We’ve all been there! (battery connected back to front, dizzy on 180 degrees out… it happens!)

I didn’t find any great improvement with the 123 and so sold my unit a few years ago. Like my digital camera there were just too many features on it that I’d never use. I just like the fit-and-forget style of the under-cap systems and although my Aldon system was this type it failed after about two years. The red SimonBBC unit has been going great for quite a bit longer and I’ve bought since some for my Heralds.

I used the SimonBBC versions from eBay : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-25D-25D4-POWERSPARK-electronic-ignition-kit-/110581394489?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19bf2a2c39 Aldon gave up on me while Optronic was too much bother. That link is just to a sample of what he sells; check his other items to confirm the one you require. I’ve found them excellent quality over the years.

The last GT6 outrigger I bought has a strap on the top flange which is meant to be folded down the inside of the chassis main rail and welded where accessible. I haven’t seen any Herald / Vitesse ones like this but suspect they’re the same these days. Incidentally that link to the Service bulletin page doesn’t work?

Yes cat litter is excellent for oil, really unbelievable for soaking up huge quantities off clean concrete… don’t ask how I know but the cat didn’t go for a week afterwards until stocks were replenished. The problem with this stuff - power steering fluid - is that it dripped heavily for about two weeks until a replacement pump arrived and was fitted, so there’s discoloured patch about two feet by two feet where the bonnet of the Discovery usually sits. No cleaner known to man - or me - has so far done anything to it; I think it may come to digging out the patch of tarmac and refilling. The drive is overdue for a topcoat anyway; I’ve been recommended a product called Bitumen Coldfix which brushes on.

It’s on.. it’s off.. it’s on… it’s off…..

Any tips on removing this horrible substance from a tarmac driveway? It covers an area of about four square feet following a leak on the Power Steering pump on my Discovery and nothing that normally removes engine oil will touch it. Three months or so on from the pump replacement and it’s still sitting there, discoloured brown and apparently unremoveable except by digging out the affected area of tar... Anything I should try?

It may be indeed; the last set of ‘new’ rear overriders I bought were badly crazed within a few years of purchase, and the amazing thing is that this was without them ever being near a road.

Still waiting final developments through the Club Shop; I was intending to sell this one at Stafford a couple of years ago but it got itself donated as a template for trial remanufacture… hopefully it will be feasible to remake them.

If anyone is interested, I have a brand new never-fitted aftermarket 6-cylinder rev counter that fits anywhere the driver wants it to go; rectangular design and looks quite nice. Only downside is that it’s for positive earth and so may not be suitable for many of our Triumphs. Any use to anyone?

Just find one with reclining seats and develop that Triumph slouch…. I’m 6’ 4” and have no problem in a Mk1.