Josef

What you describe for your 1200 seats sounds the same as my 13/60’s seat construction. There’s definitely nothing just hanging over in to the hood well.

Have you taken off the door card and had a look at the mechanism for the interior handle? Sounds like something is not moving properly or not connected there. Note your striker / anti burst need to be fitted tightly and in the right position! Sounds like you might’ve just done up the screws? Some adjustment might be needed.

Are the anti burst catch and latch part on the b pillar adjusted and tightened down? I had a hard to shut passenger door for ages till I figured these were loose, and they wouldn’t stay tight till the bolts were assisted with a little thread lock.

No, they’re definitely the the wrong shape to be the bulkhead ones. I can say that for certain as I’m currently working on that area of my Herald!

Hah, I never knew there was a fitted version. Have always thought the way it didn’t seat properly around the quarter light was daft though!

Well the DVLA have 943RTA as a 1963 Herald 1200. The roof anyway looks chunkier than a true Coupe roof (the other car photographed above looks considerably more delicate) which is why I was guessing aftermarket hard top.

Yes! Hope the resto is going well.

Just came across a collection of older photos of Triumphs and other classics from the days before I had my own. These will be from Stonleigh, in the early 2000s, probably 2002/2003. Heralds AFK648H (1200 Saloon), 320KHT (1200 Coupe), 943RTA (My photo title indicates it was an 'S', but it looks to be some type of aftermarket hardtop / Coupe thing so possibly there was some badge swapping / bits-ness going on here), XKP965A (1200 Estate). Spitfire Mk3 UAA245H. Durham Church street in 2007/2008. 13/60 missing the front number plate. My own 13/60 will've been about 5 mins walk away at this point! Probably York Road car park in Guildford around the mid 2000s KAF108L (GT6 Mk3) Finally a Stag MMY904P, again, mid 2000s. I'm pretty sure this will be outside the Stag garage in Abinger Hammer (Abinger Hammer Motors).

Oh. Yeah. So part 74, is that hollow inside so it might take trim clips? I can’t easily look at my herald roof at the moment as the car is slightly disassembled. But that’s ringing a bell now you mention it. I know the book you’re quoting from, it’s sometimes useful, but also sometimes difficult to interpret (as you’re finding!).

Yep, that’s what I thought you were meaning. On my car both of those things are pop riveted to the hood frame. It’s a fairly unmolested car, but I couldn’t tell you for certain that’s the original fitment.

Are we talking about a convertible here? I’m not completely sure which parts you’re referring to here (photos would help!) but if my guess is correct then I think the answer is pop rivets rather than screws.

It’s the original brass impeller. I didn’t enquire much more beyond the ‘lifetime guarantee’, though I believe they use ceramic bearings. Figured whatever they offered was better than £35 for a repro one every so often. The County brand one on there was fitted by the PO, and therefore can’t be more than a few thousand miles old. Wasn’t leaking badly, but was leaking!

As my refurbished water pump has arrived I’ve got on to replacing the slightly leaky one on the Spitfire. There was just enough room to get the old repro pump off without removing the rad. However the replacement is an early unit with a stud/nut poking out the front, so I had to remove the radiator anyway to get that on. Oh well. The old pump has what looks suspiciously like bathroom sealant around the gasket…

I had bought individual pipes from canley, but thought I had seen on here they’d stopped selling them.

The brake pipe flaring tools on the cheaper end of the market will do copper, and just about kunifer. I’m not even sure the usual suspects will sell an individual brake line rather than a set. So probably worth thinking about just getting the tools and some line. The fittings off the existing one will most likely be reusable.

If just time of the concern, the quick fix to get you through the 3.5 weeks could just be duct tape! Owen’s covers (Park Lane) were a breeze to fit and the instructions comprehensive.

Yes. I was posting for the avoidance of doubt on the OP’s part

Colin’s photos show this nicely, but to be explicit the o/s pipe should go under and not through the suspension turret.

Most likely cause it’s having to run down into the heat of the engine bay / exhaust.

AlanT suffered from UJs failing in quick succession on his 1500, that was due to the driveshaft yoke being bent. When you replace this latest failed one it’s also worth checking the state of the yoke and the flange that bolts to the diff. You also need to make sure the UJ cups are held sufficiently tightly which may require thicker circlips, or shims (which you can make out of an empty beer can). The UJ must be tight enough that it’ll just hold its own weight and that of the flange under gravity.

An electric socket driver will probably help out with getting the bottom fastening on, assuming the awkwardness of moving a ratchet/spanner in the confined space is the issue similar to the four cylinder cars.

That gap is due to a tiny bit of rot. There’s an approx 10mm section that was single thickness, so there was only an outside flange, and that outer flange needs repair.

I can see why having the head gasket changed is a major selling point on these. On the plus side pointing people at this thread will be good for your advert if you do decide to sell!

Got yesterday’s patches in fully, then most of today has been taken up by the OS windscreen pilar. There’s a bit of weld touch up to do, otherwise ready for a gutter. I’m slowly getting towards the end of the repairs now.

Yeah it’s still available. Not been brewed in Newcastle itself for quite some time though!