Josef

Just happened across the Rimmer’s price for a Herald body mount kit. I ordered from Canley’s for £32.50. Rimmer bros have it for £120 including VAT…

Your rev counter is one of these right? If so yes you do need it reworking. Your options are one of the conversion boards in this eBay listing (though personally I wasn’t all that impressed with the one I bought), building your own circuit board for it (I’m very happy to advise if you want to do that, or having someone do it for you. I have parts left to do the conversion for you and would also be happy to convert yours in exchange for a charity donation to the North East Restoration Club.

Windscreen frame corner repairs - getting close to having a rust free bulkhead!

Excellent news!

Sounds like your timing is good enough to start but not ‘right’. With the engine running, possibly with the throttle held open a little (jamming a bit of card under the throttle linkage or having the choke open a tiny bit will work if you haven’t got a helper) if it won’t hold idle, turn the distributor again till the revs stop increasing, turn it back a fraction. If the engine will run without the throttle now then close the throttle. Repeat the process with the throttle at idle, tighten the clamp bolt and road test.

Interesting that you got no poppers. I did, but was surprised at that being the case and had already bought some! (Also got my hood from Don via the club)

Maybe you were filling out the nearly invisible remains of some old studs? Regardless, easier having some metal to drill out than a giant hole from stripped out threads!

Definitely make your own. Especially for the striker as, as has been mentioned, you may find you need to shim it in and out somewhat.

Mike Papworth would be my go to. I can also drop round with my Mk3 and some spare known to be short driveshaft bits to do some comparison if you would like?

Looks like the right one to me. There is adjustment on the frame brackets so could be you need to drop it down a little. Also you might just need to do up your poppers and then complete the rest of the hood raising operations. It could just have shrunk a little if it’s spent a lot of time folded.

I think passing over the bracket is the only way the flasher socket can be properly mounted to the bulkhead.

I filled mine with weld through primer, and then seam sealer, and then tacked them at each end and both sides in the middle. These lower trims were originally fitted in a similar way, though without the seam sealer! I suspect the permanent fixing for them will’ve been a little brazing too.

Looks good, like the colour! PK is a Guildford plate (I happen to know a lot of the old style P- codes as there’s a lot correspond to places significant to my family)

That’s quite odd. If you can get a photo of the hinge on the b post when the hood is raised that should be diagnostic. The hood not being long enough might suggest that you’re right and you have a squaretail frame. I think the windscreen rake was changed slightly when the body was face lifted to increase headroom.

Send us some photos of your frame, and the positions of it when you’re having problems!

Pete is correct the Spit mk3 has a 12v non ballasted coil as standard.

You shouldn’t need a new heater valve. As far as I know the heater valves didn’t change through the Herald production run (possibly with the exception of very early ones, and of course there were both Smiths and Delaney types!)

There are clips. Part 17 here https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-spitfire-mkiii&diagram=triumph-spitfire-mkiii-tonneau-cover-details (why Triumph put them on the tonneau page I don’t know but that’s where they are!)

Just thought. @Richeee has a spares car which is a convertible I think? Might be you have some of these bits? Assuming you know you’ve got enough to finish your own!

I’ve just got an FP683 key for a boot lock I had which was marked ‘683’ and it is the correct key. So the FP series are correct for the locks that look FS style but have numbers outside of the FS key series. Though there may of course be a further key series that’s similar I suppose.

Ahebron has a good point, they were used on the TR4-7 so TR suppliers may also be worth a call, but expect the accompanying TR price increase... Oh, and Wins Ltd sometimes have a bit of second hand stuff.

Canley’s list the striker plates https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-1200&diagram=triumph-herald-1200-door-assembly Anti burst might be hard though https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=anti-burst-door-catches

If nothing comes up here… Good sources for stuff you can’t get new new are Spitfire Graveyard, Spitbitz (both breakers and deal with Heralds too despite the names!), TD Fitchett (just ring and ask, they’re not big on listing stuff online but have huge collections of parts) and Mick Dolphin (small business but has been collecting up NOS stuff for years, also a nice bloke in person - I dropped in to pick up a door skin recently).

The US models got a bit mixed up too. See more info from John Kipping.

My Hyundai Getz was on from when I lived in Perth. I met the street view car when leaving work at UWA. Just checked and those pictures have since been updated.