johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Its strange as I got a replacement mechanical pump for my Vitesse from the same supplier and its been fine (although Ive never checked its output pressure). Obviously not the same model pump but probably from the same manufacturer...
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Certainly, after confirming the reading, let JP know as its only by constantly complaining that we might get an improvement....
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Also Ive found in older vehicles the pads sometimes dont sit exactly parallel with the disc so to start with the pad only contacts in a reduced area giving a spongy pedal. After some miles theres complete contact so the braking will be better and the pedal more solid. You could check the pads to see if this is the case...
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I think the selection of components needs to be in this order:
work out the maximum likely load amps,
the fuse (mounted as close as possible to the supply) needs to be rated a bit higher than the calculated load,
finally the wire should be of a higher current capacity than the fuse (as Pete says you can as large as you like to reduce volt drop).
This might seem a bit ott but if an earth fault occurs to the wire the fuse must blow before the wire overheats...
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My Vitesse electric fan runs on after ignition off (tipically a few minutes) and prevents the usual engine overheat on shutdown plus keeps air moving around the carbs/exhaust to minimise fuel evaporation👍
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4 hours ago, johny said:
Wow thats quite brave Mathew! Some are now even going for 20w60 in an attempt to keep oil pressure up as high as possible on hot days in traffic....
As Clive says, depends on how hard you drive the car plus I also think limiting the engines temperature with an efficient cooling system will mean you can successfully use a thinner oil...
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Wow thats quite brave Mathew! Some are now even going for 20w60 in an attempt to keep oil pressure up as high as possible on hot days in traffic....
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fraid its got to be pressure AND flow in plain bearings. Obviously both have limits but without sufficient flow the bearing overheats and, especially with white metal, this can lead to failure☹️
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For lubrication I would have thought 'frictionless' bearings would need the same or more likely less oil flow than the original plain bearing not more! Theres also the cooling requirement as a plain bearing having more friction generates more heat so needs a flow of oil for cooling while for a roller bearing normally just grease is sufficient...
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Some recommend mixing the two, vinegar and soda, but I cant see much point in that as surely they neutralise one another....
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Yes dont think its much good for scale, that needs an acid to attack it, also not recommended for aluminium for those with ally rads...
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No it was to Spark Spit actually as I wondered if a servo has a great effect (apart from the obvious) on the performance of Greenstuff pads...
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Out of interest, have you got a servo fitted?
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yes you can think of it in different ways but it definitely isnt to stop flow from the manifold back into the rocker box.
The vacuum in the engine means that the dip stick should have is seal pad and the rocker cover cap be a good fit. Actually interesting to take the cover off and put your hand over it to see how much suck there is...
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No, its to control the pressure inside the engine. This should be kept slightly negative so any gases coming out of the oil or blowing by the piston rings are drawn off into the inlet manifold rather than being released to the atmosphere but also not too negative that excessive air is sucked in through oil seals etc. Obviously the gas flow can vary with engine wear and also the suction of the manifold is variable so the valve opens and closes to ensure that the correct pressure is maintained.
The valve does need occasional maintenance such as cleaning and checking of both the spring and diaphragm. I recently found the latter on mine had gone pretty rigid so replaced it - cant say it made any difference but then it was running well anyway...
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Its a difficult one this and if you have any concerns with the earth to the control box the best is probably just to run a new separate earth cable...
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As I say, run the engine and drive through the gears. This should reproduce any problem seen on the road unless its related to actual load or rear suspension position. One thing, before doing this check that the drive shafts are not in contact with anything where they are hanging down...
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I would suspect the clutch/release bearing but how about driving it through the gears while on secure axle stands first?
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Sounds like a winding tail(s) might have broken where it connects to the slip ring which would be very likely if the slip ring has come loose. Possibly repairable but thats the sellers problem however I wouldnt admit to anything more than 'it doesnt work'😲
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yes unfortunately there has to be a circuit across the slip rings. Unusual to fail, any signs or smell of damage and I take it youre 100% sure of the open circuit reading? If correct theres no chance of the alternator working☹️
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Yes the Greenstuff pad material may have changed so it'll be interesting to get an update on performance now....
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Please let us know how you find these pads once theyre bedded in as getting the best out of brakes is a popular topic on here👍
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Thats what the WSM says and it makes sense to have the sliding joint by the diff for better access for lubing👍
Theres also a comment that the sliding joint should never be dismantled for any reason!
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One thing Im not sure about is the route of the current flow from the ignition bulb before the dynamo output voltage exceeds the battery - whether it goes through the reg to the field winding and earth or back through the commutator and winding to earth or maybe both....
Soft pedal but no air in the brake lines?
in Braking System
Posted
Has this repro problem been found with calipers other than type 16? I believe Patricks Bond might not have these....