johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Have you tried the key in place as it should have a curved base so that it actually extends beyond the end of the slot in the shaft. This may make it long enough to engage with the fan as designed.
What I cant understand is why the old spacer and new are different thicknesses (can the seller explain that?) and why the shaft sits so far out. The roller bearing inner race sits with one face against a shoulder on the shaft and the spacer on the other side so the position of the fan should never change...
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Cant help much but the gearbox is definitely the latest single rail type probably from a 1500 Spitfire. That means it will be 4" longer than your original box...
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yes not easy is it☹️ Reckon even more complicated when it comes to paying more for some Fair Trade product as thats even more open to abuses and unexpected consequences!
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But how will you know where the new core fitted to your old rad came from or where the aluminium for your 'UK' made unit was extracted and refined? As I say you might be prepared to pay more for something but its highly unlikely the supplier has the same philosophy....
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The spacer is sliding right along the shaft and up against the bearing inner race? It should enter into the end bracket and just protrude enough to allow the key to fit. It does require the bearing to be hard up against the shaft internal shoulder - could the rotor have moved inwards somehow?
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Looks like we've got to do something though (unless a complete denier of course) and everyone is very good at slagging off any measures implemented but never comes up with what we should do instead?
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Who knows where things come from and under what conditions, environmental or labour, they were made! I dont trust any of the blurb so the only thing Ive got to go on is the price and maybe a bit of advice on here😁
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Its called Capitalism and its the way the world works, at the moment....
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Have a look at the Canley or Rimmers diagrams Colin. The clamp plate holds a threaded boss for the cable to connect to....
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Those figures are very similar to a standard GT6 and your single rail box, especially without OD, is potentially stronger so it should last as long as Triumph originally designed for....
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Yes for some reason the Chinese dont like the Vitesse which is why I fitted the 50 quid Honda Civic unit in mine....
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Radtec being a good example. Should be fantastic quality!
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29 minutes ago, avivalasvegas said:
Don't do it! I had a Chinese aluminum rad fitted on my Classic Mercedes. The weld bend at the bottom hose connector failed. The results were disastrous. Fortunately, I caught it before the motor overheated.
It can be painful paying for a non-Chinese unit but I highly recommend going with products made with an element of manufacturing ethics involved. Basically anything Japanese/ German is preferred (if a recore isn't an option)
Fraid I think youre in the minority there. However its always a personal choice of weighing up cost, 100 (Chinese) v 500 (Radtec) against possible quality issues....
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Ive heard of that but never found anywhere that advertises it. Does it mean the wheel has to go back in exactly the same place if removed?
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You could be right but doing on the axle is potentially the most accurate way to ensure the drum surface is concentric. Of course the quality of my drill support could be the fly in the ointment....
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might be able to help you there if my cunning home made drum grinder doesnt work out.....
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3 types of shafts for GT6: early non rotoflex short, rotoflex and late non rotoflex long.
First and last same but 1" difference in length. Respective part numbers are 128135 and 155928.
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2 hours ago, Iain T said:
A friend machined his huge Daimler drums using a vertical mill and a rotary table to turn the drum. He said they were way off and it worked a treat.
Not sure I can stretch to making a vertical mill and rotary table with my electric drill and assorted bits of angle iron though😌
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Nice, I take it the magnets didnt want to stick to the shaft or housing because they were all held end to end?
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8 minutes ago, clive said:
Just run it in gear?
hmmm Im not that brave....
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Im really tempted to have a go at a home drum regrind.
With the car supported the drum is bolted using the studs to the hub but reversed so that with a home made frame holding an electric drill and grind stone you can machine the drum inner surface. Probably need an assistant to rotate the axle while the 'machinist' moves the drill in to cover the complete area....
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'Actually, the difference between 'hot' and 'cold' plugs is down to the distance that the central electrode projects from the body of the plug.'
Yes but surely the amount the plug sticks out into the combustion chamber is going to have a similar effect?
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I think another risk is that the plug end will get too hot which at the least will cause pre-ignition and at worst damage to the plug end. After all the amount the plug extends into the combustion chamber is what gives us hotter or cooler running plugs...
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Its difficult to machine drums as really you need a mandrell. There used to be loads of places in the good old days but no longer however I found a shop with a big lathe and they had a go at mine by just mounting in the chuck. It wasnt perfect but made a big improvement at a very reasonable price. I would have bought new but 2L Vitesse drums are expensive and I wasnt confident the new pattern ones wouldnt go out of round as well...
I suppose discs can go out of true maybe after very heavy breaking but ours are pretty chunky! Muck underneath their mounting wouldnt be good but both of these issues can easily be checked with even a home made dti☺️
Lucas C40 dynamo
in Electrical System
Posted
This is a pic of one on ebay and it appears to have the same problem as yours!