johny
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Posts posted by johny
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In my diagram the warning light is connected between the battery and dynamo output but at the input to the regulator not the output. Then with engine stopped, ignition on, the current flows through the bulb and to earth through the dynamo. When started the dynamo output at the regulator increases and opposes the ignition light current flow so as I say the bulb can go out because the current isnt high enough to illuminate the filament but that doesnt mean the dynamo output is a higher voltage than the battery. In fact if adjusted correctly the regulator shouldnt even connect the dynamo output to the battery until its producing 12.7 - 13.3v...
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well its just that light out doesnt necessarily mean system healthy - you have to take some measurements to confirm that👍
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I wonder if the sliding joint doesnt help. Everything can be perfectly balanced but if the joint allows excessive radial movement between the two parts its never going to be vibration free. This might not show up on the balancing machine but once the prop is exposed to the movements and forces on the car its another matter....
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I agree with that idea but it should be remembered that the ignition light going out just means that the difference in battery volts and dynamo volts is insufficient to illuminate the bulb. The dynamo could be giving 3v less than the battery so the battery isnt charging and current will still be flowing from the battery to the dynamo but the 3v across a 12v bulb isnt enough to light up its filament...
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I would do one thing at a time Chris. Carry out the remedial work and see how the system works. If theres still problems then we can think some more and if not youre free to decide whether you want to return to standard. It isnt a common 'period modification' but doesnt appear to be a bodge either...
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Well either way it certainly isnt helpful trying to diagnose and correct problems on a cooling system when starting with a non standard set up😌
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Thats what the normal open system would do but I think with sufficient air in the rad the water expansion would be absorbed without air being expelled. After all theres got to be some reason why car manufacturers mount pressurised reservoirs high up...
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1 hour ago, NonMember said:
Actually it's on the inner wing on the Dolomite, with the pressure cap on the bottle just about level with the top of the radiator. Certainly not the highest point in the system.
The reservoir the same height as the radiator makes more sense because I reckon with the existing arrangement you could have a substantially low level in the radiator and not know it because the reservoir still has coolant. The only way to be sure would be to remove the plug....
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Yes luckily its got that plug as it should allow air to be vented but what a pain and each time you open it the coolant in the overflow pipe will run into the reservoir leaving the pipe empty...
Modern motorcycles still use the 'old' open system design precisely because there isnt room to mount a reservoir at the highest point. Its not as good as a closed type but is the best for that situation.
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Im not sure air will be pushed out to the reservoir because as the water expands on heating it will just be compressed the same as the air in the bottle. Theres no pressure difference between the bottle and system as there is with a standard 'open' arrangement so the expulsion of air just relies of floating to the highest point...
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I think your probably right but I really would like to see the reservoir bottle mounted at the highest point in the system as surely it must have been in the Dolomite...
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The fact that the car doesnt indicate hotter running when driving (for example up a long hill on a hot day) but only when idling would seem to indicate insufficient airflow from the fan as it does nothing once once youre moving. A flush is always a good idea on an old system and I would also clean the cooling fins as much as possible but it does point to an under performing fan....
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2 minutes ago, PeteH said:
That was the reasoning behind the French Revolution?, which as I recall did`nt go too well.? Making Napoleon a De Facto dictator ultimately. There are many examples of "One party" states in history. Several in the current era. None which particularly benefit the "common man". It was said that Jesus, had communist leanings. The "church" was not exactly a model of moral rectitude either.
"Man" is far to competitive (and greedy), and largely too tribal to be persuaded to follow a truly Moral path. As a result, 99% of "US" tend to look after family first and work out from there.
Pete
I think we're in for a bad time then☹️
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6 minutes ago, PeteH said:
Having watched the mess the Russians made of it?. The state of China?. Hitler couldn't achieve it in the end. I hardly think that will sort anything out. Bottom line, sadly, is you are fighting human nature.
Pete
Dont forget Communism doesnt have to be a dictatorship and also it usually comes about when theres a big difference between the haves and have nots which looks like where we could be heading...
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2 hours ago, thescrapman said:
In about 5 years time the prices of secondhand cars is going to start to climb, with performance cars going through the roof, as people want a slice of petrol power before they can't get one new.
I think the petrol price will have to ramp up significantly over the same period which might reduce peoples interest in combustion cars. Troubles going to come for the less well off so maybe each person will have to have a quantity allowance of petrol at a lower price? In fact that could be the first step on our way to the Communist system which I think we're going to need to sort this mess out😲
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ok and I take it the valve is well sealed where it screws into the carb. I think there should be a washer and of course done up tightly.
If you undo the float chamber you might be able to blow into the fuel inlet while manually operating the float to check that the valve closes correctly...
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Thats good news. Do you have a new pump or electric one? Try tapping the chamber or if youve got time wait a day or so. Of course one possible cause I forgot is a punctured or non working float but that is less likely...
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Thats because the float valve hasnt shut completely so some fuel still keeps flowing into the chamber until it overflows. It can be because of too high pump pressure, dirt, worn valves or stuck valves. This last happens quite often to cars that dont get used regularly because the fuel in the chamber evaporates and leaves a stick residue. Tapping the chamber with a screwdriver can help to get the valves to seal or sometimes they just start to work when the residue gets disolved by the fresh fuel.
You really need to fix the problem before driving as you dont want fuel dripping out near the exhaust manifold. You can try tapping or leaving it a while and having another go but if it persists the float valves probably need to come out for a clean...
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Ive actually pressurised the tank on my Vitesse blowing in the filler before and this helps pushes the fuel through the system. Lungs need to be good and not sure if its so easy on a Spitfire...
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yes a failing mechanical pump is usually first noticed on a long high speed run up a hill where fuel demand is maximum. All of a sudden you get bad misfiring and then when you slow down all is good again....
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I dont think its run back as much as fuel evaporating out of the carb float bowls. Once the fuel is in there it cant be sucked back out as the chamber is open to atmosphere via its overflow port but of course this does allow it to evaporate. It seems to happen in a couple of weeks (or less depending on the ambient temperature) and can leave a sticky residue behind so the answer is to periodically pump more fuel through either by cranking the engine or using the pump manual lever if fitted...
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Hi, your box should be a single rail and look like this unless it has overdrive in which case it'll have the the same gear lever system but mounted on top of the much bulkier overdrive unit...
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The gauges arent meant to be accurate for actual temperature but more for indicating change. This is why you need to find its usual running position (normally around half way) and then adjust so that the fan is running before the needle reaches one division higher and then hopefully comes back to its initial position.
Unless you have used waterless coolant you cant do any damage to the engine as the radiator cap will lift and discharge a cloud of steam to let you know theres a problem☺️
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You really need to see what the temperature gauge is doing. the fan shouldnt come on until the needle starts to move from its normal running position. You might have it set to run too much in which case the return water (bottom hose) will be too cool and the engine runs cold.
Agree with Colin that an air lock is unlikely and anyway if persistant would quickly show as overheating when driving. I would go for a drive with the fan turned off and hopefully the gauge will settle around the halfway mark. Then when home run the engine until the gauge gets back to the same position and rising at which point the fan should be set to start....
It can take a few attempts to get right but remember the fan should stop when moving at anything more than about walking pace because the natural airflow will be greater than the fan can give anyway so its just a waste.
Basic test for a dynamo charging system
in Electrical System
Posted
mines from the Vitesse/GT6 WSM and I would have thought all cars with a regulator box would be basically the same? When running it makes sense for the battery to supply the cars systems while the regulator powers up the dynamo (dependant on revs as well) until its output volts are sufficient and then the cut off contact closes to let it take over from the battery while also recharging it...