johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Thanks Pete. The gears have quite a bit of play but the backlash of the short shafts is minimal so I'll leave them alone (also the thrusts dont seem to be available anyway)...
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Wow looks like you caught it just in time as if a needle bearing fails completely major damage can follow.
Hope your laygear bearing surfaces are good as its not easy to repair these or the mainshaft tip. The latter is difficult because as Mathew says it can be sleeved but that means machining the tip even smaller which makes it more prone to snapping off. Somebody on here recently bought a new mainshaft from Bastuck in Germany (they may also supply UK stockists) and had some big problems with it...
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Joanna, I take it the idler gear that engages with that hub has similar wear and also how does the laygear reverse gear look?
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I cant get to a workshop manual at the moment so can anyone tell me how much play there should be in the Spitfire 1500 differential planet gears. I can move them back and forth on their axle by a couple of millimetres or so and I wonder if this means their thrust washers are very worn?
Thanks
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Exactly how I use my old Gunson analogue tester but yours probably has a battery in it so if low could that cause this problem? Time to ask Draper methinks....
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Had a similar incident many years ago with a Mk1 Vitesse and it was a factory recon unit fitted by the PO. I tried to claim back but it was a good few months out of warranty so had no luck. I didnt notice any noises prior to the failure and it went with a loud bang and holed casing while coming down a long motorway incline - might have been on trailing throttle but cant remember now and never did identify cause....
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Penetrating oil and patience, sometime weeks of both....
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You can see in this photo what is being suggested. The engine mount bracket that bolts to the block isnt symetrical and can possibly be installed incorrectly which might result in the rubber support ending up in the wrong position.....
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Talking of flanges, I believe the gearbox output drive flanges are different from OD and non OD gearboxes but dont know if theyre interchangeable. If they werent the same length it could change the position of the engine/box while leaving the prop correct. Has your flange got the integral dust shield welded to it that covers the gearbox end oilseal?
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its not bouncing that worries me, its the chance of exploding when I miss a gear😄
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Good to know Colin and logical I suppose as theres max outputs up to 25A and Ive certainly heard of a C40J. Dont like the idea of a 60 yr old bakelite fans though!
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Looks very similar to the one I got from James Paddock and its been fine. The only thing I dont like, and which is different from the original, is that to clean the filter you have to disconnect the inlet pipe instead of just removing a top cap....
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Hmmm have a look at this thread:
Its not the problem so much as the Bastuck response which is most worrying....
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That is the question... But going by other mark ups Ive seen on their stuff it wouldnt surprise me - in fact thats actually quite a reasonable price for them!
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Just thought, if using the pump method dont over pressurise the system as obviously the cap wont be able to lift to protect it....
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Hi, can be a bit of a connundrum this! First is the actual overflow pipe in good condition, airtight including where it fits on the rad filler neck and always immersed in coolant in the overflow bottle? In use it should ALWAYS be full of liquid and a transparent pipe is useful for verifying this...
Youre right to think the cap top seal could be leaking but also Ive suffered with leaks elsewhere in the system. Typically hoses leak where they clamp onto fittings and dont seem to lose coolant but do allow air to be sucked in on cool down. As a last resort, with the system cold, you can connect a hand pump with gauge to the radiator overflow pipe and pressurise so that you can look for leaks and/or pressure drop.
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They just keep on coming down in price! This 1.9 unit is 51.59 delivered on ebay and they all look to be the same....
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I would guess one is a genuine Lockheed unit (if still produced) and the other a copy that are also available on ebay down to about 60quid incl del. That seems to be the recomended boost although again its down to personal preference as theres 1.65 and 2.3 ratios also available - have to see if theres physical differences in size but I think I read the ratio is determined by the piston bore rather than the diaphragm....
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Hmmm another personal taste question. Well, how strong are your legs and how adaptable are you to altering your pedal pressing from modern car to old? Will other people, inexperienced with the car, be driving it occasionally (possibly the most important factor)?
I personally like the brakes without servo assistance (but that might change as I get older) as I find the braking more controllable and, as theres no ABS, easier to avoid skidding.
If you do fit a servo there will probably be more brake pedal travel due to having to move more fluid so a larger bore master cylinder might be advisable....
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Cant see the video because it needs an additional file but anyway as I say there should never be any freeplay in the system. All I can think is that your slave cylinder piston is reaching the end of its travel before completely disengaging the clutch - with it operated and the rubber cover removed can you feel whether the piston has come up against its retaining circlip?
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I dont know, theres still something that doesnt add up here.
With the slave cylinder removed from the car its piston should be fully out, hard against the stop circlip as it pushed by its internal spring. When you install it the pushrod has to push the piston back in quite a distance and the only way this can happen is if the release bearing is up against the clutch. From this moment the pushrod, the operating arm and release bearing must all be constantly under tension and if not then the slave cylinder piston has either reached the end of its travel or is jammed and wont extend any further. To determine this, with everything installed feel where the piston is inside the slave cylinder...
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Barry the workshop manual that is kindly free to download at this site: Triumph Car Service manuals - Vitessesteve
has a couple of excellent sectional diagrams for your gearbox and clutch. You can even work out the sizes of things by comparing the drawings with actual component measurements...
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41 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I'll just post a photo of my poly trunnions in situ, instead.
Has that been rubbing Colin? I suppose its got to as a tight fit in the lower arm where the bolt clamps the bush tube...
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Correct. Being stainless the idea is that theres no need trying to keep out moisture....
Triumph Gt6 mk3 - 2nd and 3rd gear noises
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
What did the laygear bearing surfaces look like Joanna? They usually last better than the layshaft but if this is the boxes second rebuild might now have worn through the case hardening meaning that the wear rate accelerates😢