johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Ive got a WE unit and I think its was decided to be from an Dolomite 1850 but a very early type same as Vitesse/GT6 HC or KC units with small main shaft tip and small synchro rings. Its input shaft should stick out further than the other gearboxes you have....
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Unusual, I wonder if the rear flange has been loose or something...
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For the diode to prevent a generated reverse current powering the LED it would have to be installed in the positive tail of the fan and so be rated to carry the full running current. Perhaps you could install the system without it to start with and later fit one if theres a issue...
No problem with using another switch with the controller and in fact Revotec themselves offer other on-off type switches with diagrams for each on their site.
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hmmm most powerful 240v drill I can find is 1500w so around 2hp to turn the 3 shafts of a small chassis gearbox?
It might work but the drill motor probably wouldnt last very long due to overheating - I'll report back when I do it one day😲
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Interesting idea, although would be really poor design from Triumph, however heres an SU airbox with end pipe connections and no 'drain' holes:
REDUCED Triumph Dolomite 1850 Air Box Air Filter Housing | eBay
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The worst thing is not knowing youve done it right until its back in the car and you drive it! Ive wondered if a beefy electric drill couldnt be used to power the rear coupling on the bench and then go through the gears - should test the synchros and better than nothing?
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I think that means Strombergs = holes in base of airfilter box and SUs, holes not required, unless somebody has a standard set up to the contrary?
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Dont do it Pete! The OP just asked for advice not opinions on cooling methods😂
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10 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
come on SU flood and overspill the same as any carb can when floats valves are playing up has nothing to do with the makers
and the slots were the only air intake they do not have the cold air tubes at all
Pete
Never had SUs so I assumed their remote float overflowed elsewhere and not into the air filter housing like Strombergs. Does seem strange that my Vitesse housing has bottom holes and air intake hoses...
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1 hour ago, Mathew said:
Mk4/1500 boxes don't have intake slots at the bottom of the boxes, only the holes for the flex vent pipes that go to the side of the radiator.
I always assumed the bottom slots were to allow the fuel to run out if the Strombergs float chambers overflowed. Not necessary with SUs I suppose...
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If youve gone to open bell mouths youre not going to be sitting in traffic jams but driving full bore on a race track🤣
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I think Triumph probably just wanted to use the same pipes as the earlier models with smaller carbs😄 Its not ideal as there will be a pressure drop and reduction in flow at full throttle openings but not enough to worry about. Obviously the best would be open bell mouths bolted directly to the carbs...
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9 hours ago, NonMember said:
Unlikely. They may well have diodes but the reason won't be that.
When I worked at Rover's in-house ECU department, the team working on the Rover 218 asked us to turn the cooling fan on above a certain road speed. We told them we didn't have a road speed sensor as it was too expensive. They said we might need one. We said it would be on their cost centre. You get the drift. Anyway, we asked why they wanted the new feature, and they said the fan spun up so fast because of air flow at the vehicle's maximum speed that it exceeded the manufacturer's safe limit for the bearings. They wanted it turned on to slow it down (because at that speed it was generating more than the battery voltage, so turning it on would treat it as a generator). We told them to put a diode across the relay - when the fan spun that fast the diode would conduct to make use of the current flow to protect the bearings.
The other reason for diodes, if the fan is driven directly by a FET, is to quench the inductive flyback, which has nothing at all to do with the fan spinning.
I think it was on Wheeler Dealers or some such telly programme as they were fitting a double cooling fan set up to one of their vehicles and they showed that by spinning one fan by hand the other rotated driven by the generated power...
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Just a thought, the LED indicator in the propsed layout may well light up when the fan isnt powered because the fan can spin by the airflow when driving at speed and generate a voltage. Modern vehicles have this problem and use diodes to stop this reverse flow of current...
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18 minutes ago, chrishawley said:
The 'best' way to wire in a electric fan is definitely a case of 'as many men, so many opinions'. For me the Revotec wiring diagram is both a blessing and a curse. The good aspect is that it allows the fan to run on after the ignition is turned off until cooling has occurred. But the bad aspect is that the switch would allow the fan to be left running constantly with ignition off and at 10 - 12amps battery drain would rapidly supervene.
Yes thats always a conundrum. My solution has been to wire the supply to the relay coil and sensor in the Revotec diagram through a mechanical temperature switch attached to the radiator. Its an added layer of complexity but means when the rad cools to 60º theres no risk of fan run on (unless its relay sticks of course🤪) or the electronics draw flattening the battery...
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When Ive weakened the twin Strombergs too much its on steady throttle cruising Ive noticed hesitation not acceleration. Pinking can also occur especially if you have air leaks and I think this is more likely to give high combustion temperature and damage as it can go undetected...
Also my Vitesse wont start without some choke what ever the air temperature!
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The Revotec site is pretty good with fitting instructions for the items they sell. This page shows how to wire in an overide switch (they do offer a rocker type) to operate the relay already incorporated in their controller so avoiding the need for another. 070075.pdf (revotec.com)
However you might want to use their 3 way switch (if you want a way to turn off the fan manually) as, to avoid possible overloading of existing wiring/ignition switch, the fan controller should be powered directly from the battery via a fuse mounted as close to the battery as possible.
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Doesnt actually say it turns. Then, although difficult to quantify, you could ask about crank axial play, any scratches and/or lips in the bores plus its history if known (looks like its been painted which is probably a good sign)...
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I dont know about accidentally, youve got to open up each hub to check the springs as part of any rebuild havent you? Ive found broken ones before and its definitely best done inside a plastic bag!
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With the compression check you could also try a bit of oil through each sparkplug hole and redo it to see if that makes much difference to the reading (discounts bore wear...).
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If the problem persists a compression check and valve clearance adjustment is another step I would take....
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According to the manual limits of clearance shaft to bush are 8.5 to 5.8 thou. Hard to measure but definitely not a close fit....
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Cant see the chain causing this but you could try making the mixture a little richer as a trial...
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Nice feeling knowing that the clutch is new and not going to need doing for a long time! Is that an alloy backplate? If so extra easy does it when the box goes back in... Also have you checked the bronze input shaft support bush in the crank for wear?
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Gearbox Identification, Herald/Dolomite type
in Gearbox & Overdrive
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That fits in with the quality of stamping you sometimes see! Perhaps thats being unfair though, maybe they only had 30 seconds to do it before the box was whisked off on the production line and, if not, a car would be delivered somewhere without a gearbox😁