johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Its a strange one as who hasnt raised or supported the engine on the sump? It'll be interesting to see whats happened - if the load was too localised it should be pretty obvious but if not then it could be quite worrying! Certainly if repaired with epoxy the sump can never be used as a jacking point again but maybe thats not a bad thing....
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yes even Triumph used some alloy components (thermostat cover) and they werent insulated...
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2 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:
Then you fix the engine side valances to the radiator and chassis?.
Regards.
Paul
Ah yes, mines aluminium and didnt come with valance fixings so I had to fabricate them and by chance insulated them in the process. Thinking about it though has anyone really ever had a problem with galvanic corrosion of aluminium radiators?
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The gearbox and diff have got the correct levels of oil havent they? I know it sounds crazy but its been forgotten before, especially after rebuilds😳
If youre going under the car its a good time to check or you could even drain the gearbox first to see if theres any contamination...
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Really any rad should be mounted on rubber washers for vibration reduction and which effectively give electrical insulation as well...
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doesnt sound like diff as if it was that bad it would have gone bang by now! I take it the engine and gearbox rubber mounts are all in good condition?
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sorry rotated wasnt the right word, I meant rocked. Anyway, as you say, anything but just ensure the pushrod isnt under pressure...
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As Pete says whatever you do the pushrod mustnt be under pressure after any adjustment. In other words you must ensure it can still be rotated easily and freely with your fingers before you put the rubber cover back on...
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yes it sounds like the synchro isnt working very well which is probably because the synchro ring is worn. The result is that when you go to select second the gear isnt spun up to the correct speed by the ring so then crashes because of the difference in rotational speeds when trying to engage.
Changing up isnt nearly so difficult because the gears naturally tend have the same speeds especially if you take your time and wait for the right moment to engage. With a bit of practice double declutching helps on changing down by revving to increase the speed of 2nd gear so it matches that of the sliding sleeve for engagement...
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Youre lucky as it definitely seems to be the OD boxes that fail more often although that could be because theyre more common or driven more or something...
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I dont think as standard the pushrod is adjustable, mine certainly isnt...
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no, think they are weak. Physically they are small compared with units used on cars with similar characteristics especially on the sixes. The original design was used on the 948cc Herald and although some improvements were made its was later installed in cars with much more power and, more importantly, torque. This was because these cars use a separate chassis, which is also of similar design on all the cars, so limiting the space available to fit a bigger gearbox. In fact this is one of the problems in trying to find a suitable substitute gearbox from either Triumph or another manufacturer...
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Motorbikes use long lengths of hose especially on the front brakes without problems. However its probably different (smaller bore) hose and I dont know how the fluid pressures generated compare...
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52 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
spring washers dont work
flats are king
we dumped springs on trucks in the mid 70s after many trials
Pete
wish Triumph had learnt that lesson earlier☹️
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I find all the bolts on engine and box of my Vitesse seem to slacken off and its probably down to the 50 year old spring washers. It obviously doesnt help the oil leaks so I never miss an opportunity to check everything and one day will get round to replacing all those washers🤗
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I think it does depend some what on the state of the engine Steve, yours having tighter tolerances, including in the oil pump, will build up pressure quicker. On an older one, especially if it hasnt been run for a while, its not a bad idea to spin a bit if possible before firing...
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Yes its normally cover off or its certainly a lot easier that way. However with a specially made tool Ive always wondered if it wouldnt be possible to hold the nut from the front...
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That would be unusual as those rings are only to limit the movement of the tip needle roller brg. I wonder if the mainshaft has somehow been pushed up too close to the input shaft but then I would have expected the needle brg to have failed first...
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Excellent, that looks a good thread choice
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The 3/8 UNF is still 24 TPI same as 5/16 which I feel is a bit fine for aluminium while the M10 is 17 so less likely to strip....
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As I say for M10 (and 3/8UNF?) the only way is with allen socket cap head screws...
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Make sure then that the head of the bolt you use will fit ok in the sump channel AND you can get a socket on it to do it up....
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The seal block does come out but may be stuck to the gasket of the front plate which if damaged complicates things a bit😵
It is easiest to just re-tap in situ so I did mine Metric because its a courser thread than UNF and theres more availability. It had to be M10 as the stripped hole can be almost 8mm diameter and then I used allen socket cap head screws as only this type will fit perfectly in the channel of the sump. I did this without even removing the sump but of course if it is being removed that then allows its two holes to be opened up slightly...
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Also the propshafts are quite a bit different in lengths as well - you'll need a new one or to have yours shortened....
Wrong Fan?
in Cooling System
Posted
Well if that doesnt keep things cool the problem lies elsewhere☺️ Which thermostat/controller have you installed?