johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Clive they look identical are you sure the ebay ones are worth the extra over the club ones? Wonder what the difference is......
Deffo going to check my prop angle👍
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is that the GKN18050 item Pete? It says standard universal joint but is that the heavy duty one thats often talked about?
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Did you take an oil pressure reading?
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how many miles do you think the old u/j did Clive? The subject of u/js seems to be a minefield because as I understand it all that fit our cars also fit the Freelander so how do you tell heavy duty ones? If it just says it on the box I wouldnt want to risk spending 85 or even 35 quid on it!
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Think we'll have to have what ever the Americans send us😵
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And yes Mark it can be driven like that for many miles but it wears the u/j yokes which will mean they need replacing possibly with the complete halfshaft which is quite a big job.....
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Looks good. Which cut off switch did use and where is it located?
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That'll do the job nicely. I use one of these and its quite successful but dont need it very often...
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Think Doug is talking about carb mixture adjustment rather than balance.....
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you have to undo the clamp that connects the two carbs throttle butterflies (the rear hex bolt you can see in your photo) then measure the air flow through each carb mouth with a flow meter (some people listen to the airflow with a tube to judge it). Adjust the airflow using each carbs throttle stop screws while keeping the tickover speed correct then when you have the same airflow through each carb you do up the clamp and rev it a few times to see that the balance remains true. Dont forget that everything else on the engine should be set correctly (tappets, mixture etc) before setting the carb balance....
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sounds very much like the car chassis is flexing which causes the door gap to open up effectively pulling apart the door catch and latch plate. Its most common on convertibles which is why they came with additional 'anti-burst' catches but can happen on saloons if rust has weakened the structure. Obviously the smaller the door gap is adjusted the less likely it is to happen....
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Come on guys you'll be frightening Charlie!
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If its wheel bearing, which MUST have some play, it should be detectable in all directions although its more difficult to feel side to side as the steering allows movement. If its only top and bottom then its likely to be the bottom trunnion and/or top balljoint which can be identified by close inspection or feel when wobbling the wheel.....
Im talking about small chassis Triumphs
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ahhh realise Ive had a senior moment in thinking the cylinder being comp tested could drawn air in through the spark plug hole but of course thats where the tester is installed! doh🙄
No idea what could give a high reading like that: wrong piston, huge build up of carbon?
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41 minutes ago, clive said:
Removing plugs means no compression on the cylinders not being tested, so the starter motor has a much easier job. No other reason. And as all plugs need to come out at some point, do them all at once. Just mark the leads.
Ok
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of course and at 7000rpm it would make a difference but on the starter motor no....
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As its going to affect all cylinders I think whatever procedure you use its equal readings and not the actual figures reached thats most important. And surely if sparkplugs are out you dont need to worry about the carbs as we're only talking starter motor engine speed?
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no, definitely no typo there, its motoring....
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Certainly trumps the 25A output of the original dynamo....
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could be starter ring/pinnion problem although cant see why its only when hot so Im going more for starter motor issue. Brushes and/or commutator worn or possibly bearings as electric motors always tend to misbehave more when hot.
Ive seen people complain about these units not being powerful enough for the sixes and putting on geared ones but mine spins over like its going to take off so if yours was working ok something must have changed.....
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10 hours ago, poppyman said:
If you connect the dynamo to a battery just with bits of cable it should run like a starter motor but very slowly.... If it runs? it's ok if not? it is kapput.
Tony.
I prefer the WSM test using a voltmeter to measure the dynamo output with the engine running to prove its working....
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the ign light on means the voltage out of the dynamo is less than the battery voltage and the cut out contact will be open to stop a reverse flow of current.
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Surely you need 6 of each type 109023 and 109024 both of which Rimmers list? However if they cant get it right Canleys have them and much cheaper.....
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Normally what happens is the brushes wear down and start to make poor contact with the commutator so theres still some power produced but its not very stable. This worsens over time and normally results in burning of the commutator (beyond repair?) and no charging..... The field coil can easily be tested for continuity resistance to earth (5.9 +/- 0.3 ohms) while the armature has to be tested across each pair of commutator segments (all should have the same resistance).
UJ quality
in General
Posted
Those Pegasus u/js are even more expensive but I suppose are regreaseable! However, yes the seals and box seem to be the things to look out for so need to check what the club actually supply.....