johny
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Posts posted by johny
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My Vitesse hates running hot as the carburation plays up, pinking starts, tick over drops and the oil thins so making me twitchy about bearing lubrication so yes I would avoid situations where thats likely to occur. Of course the solution is to get your cooling good enough to cope with queues in hot weather which I have now done. There seems to be various ways to do this and I have gone the electric fan route with it set up to run on after stopping which greatly improves hot starts.
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The idea with this conversion is that the filter can hang down and stay full of oil. The original used to empty itself so on start up took time to refill which caused the bearings to have to operate for a while without an oil supply. The only downside is that due to lack of space its difficult to get the conversion filter into a fully vertical position but anything is better than the original and some people use a smaller screw on filter to help....
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Thats a mechanical temperature gauge so should be pretty accurate. The original had a sensor that screwed in the same place with a single wire plugged into it and operated using 10v from a regulator which also supplies the fuel gauge. I dont know if removing the original temperature gauge might have affected the output of the regulator so giving an inaccurate fuel level reading....
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The thing I dont understand is why Triumph went to a higher pressure cap on the later Spitfires unless their cars were running hot at times and lifting the 7lb originals so they hoped to get away with a cheap fix.....
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it doesnt make any difference unless you want to run your engine so hot (up to 119ºC) that a 7lb cap would lift. In fact having a higher pressure cap puts more stress on the head gasket sealing, water pump seal, rad etc as on start up when the coolant expands it has to reach 13psi before it opens to discharge the excess to the overflow bottle.....
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well perhaps Ive made it sound worse than it is getting the sump off as I havent done it on a 4 cylinder only the 6. Its true its on your back but if you can get the car up to a reasonable height the working environment should be ok. Then its only a few bolts round the sump and hopefully it can be removed without too much aggravation so giving access to the crank with its main and big end bearings. These are easy to undo and inspect but must be replaced exactly as found, CLEAN and with bolts torqued up correctly......
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Well working on the underside of the engine with the sump off is not nice at all. The access is poor, youre laying on your back, its difficult to keep everything clean and what can be done is limited so if thats where the problem is (quite likely) I recommend the engine is best removed from the car. On the other hand the cylinder head can be removed in situ fairly easily and the same goes for the front timing chain cover however you could do all that only to find the engine has to come out anyway😣 This is why it would be soooo useful to have an idea of what the problem is....
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Guppy, do you think a dropped thrust could produce the noise heard in the video?
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The Midget 1500 might do the job as it looks very similar although possibly shorter....
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great minds think a like🤣
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2 minutes ago, rozentas said:
Just to clarify my name is Steve Rozental, thanks all for the feedback, have learned so much, but as you say no nearer to identifying exactly what the noise is.
oops I got mixed up from the video!
With noise its normally difficult to locate the source in an engine because it transmits all round - sometimes a large screw driver placed in contact with different parts and with the handle on your ear can help but you have to be very careful of the moving bits!
Did you try turning the crank by hand with a spanner in both directions to see how it feels?
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Dont forget the single rail box (not OD in the non Triumph cars though) was also used in the Dolomite, Midget 1500 and Marinas/Ital so the lever from one of those might also be the same....
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I cant see the point of having more than one but as the pump itself has a filter (gauze screen) there is an argument for putting it down stream of this so the bigger debris is stopped beforehand. However in many cases theres a section of hose prior to the pump where its very easy to install the additional filter and, in my book, easy is always good👍
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Agreed and it'd be good to know roughly where the problem lies before going to the repair shop so that Ros can tell if theyre telling her nonsense..... Pity Ben hasnt come back!
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Ben do you think turning the crank using the front pulley would have shown up that failure?
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EX means exhaust valve. You can turn the crank with a spanner on the front pulley bolt (easiest with sparkplugs out) or possibly even using the fan belt but be careful not to trap fingers if doing it like that....
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yes theres a few on ebay now putting the decimal point in the wrong place....
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wow, we've seen this engines pushrods and valve gear operating so the cam chain is transmitting drive but I suppose anythings possible.....
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does sound similar but surely you wouldnt get compression on all cylinders?
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well you could check the valve clearances when the engines cold. Its not likely to be the problem but might show up a problem and is another great learning opportunity especially as its a routine job that needs doing from time to time....
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ok so did it seem to get louder when you ran the engine with the rocker cover off?
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Probably should have asked this earlier but as you originally discounted the alternator as the problem can we assume the noise comes from the front of the engine?
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Not stupid at all as has come up on here before and so could be found with a search. First is single rail and second 3 rail, both with OD but the gear change part is similar on non OD units as well. Single has reverse selected by pushing lever to RH side and 3 rail to the LH side......
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Yes the problem of the wires will be the same whatever gear knob you use with a solid stick. I suppose if you get a tall enough gaiter like this they can be largely hidden inside it.....
Spin off conversion
in Engine
Posted
45º is good. Obviously a smaller filter has a smaller flow capacity and its pressure drop due to dirt will increase at a greater rate than the specified one so the benefit is probably minimal. Do you have a problem with the bearings rattling on a cold start up until the oil gets round?