johny
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Posts posted by johny
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4 hours ago, thescrapman said:
A small chassis car clutch should not be heavy, A TR clutch, yes very heavy.
check you have right master and slave and then ask someone who knows the cars I it is OK.
Thats interesting as I thought the clutch assemblies were the same on all the sixes so they must have used a different piston size combination in the TR hydraulics - how strange....
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Congratulations on the fix - if only low oil pressure was always that easy to cure! The only disadvantage I can see against having the higher pressure relief spring is the slightly increased risk of leaks from places like head gasket and oil filter....
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I would guess the crank bore is 3/4" so the bush should be a few thou smaller but no exact figures....
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I think the next step has to be accurate measurement of the tip (you can usually visually confirm if this is worn) and bush to see if they are within the WSM spec....
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I would argue that the mainshaft, as it runs in two ball race bearings, uses its tip bearing to support the input shaft but either way the bush ordered is used in all gearboxes, 3 and single rail. I suppose part number 150763 (spigot bush for Stag, Sprint and Tr7) could have been supplied incorrectly and is a different size.....
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Thanks. It was just that Im sure I read somewhere that Ford 16P calipers (metric?) can be fitted on our cars (for example to allow vented discs) but they have a different fixing bolt spacing....
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Kevin do you know if the spacing of the caliper fixing bolts is different?
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yes and you can see the difference clearly on the Rimmers site which has both imperial and metric calipers for the GT6
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Mine measure approx 90mm between centres
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yes that should be metric and I think the caliper fixings are different so not easily interchangeable. Measuring the distance between the caliper fixing bolt centres is the definitive way to tell and Ill measure it on my imperial items....
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whats your chassis number?
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The Rimmers site says the metric type were fitted from chassis numbers KE12390 and KF12391. Of course yours could have been changed but I believe the bleed nipples are different with the metric type logically needing a metric spanner so the usual 7/16" spanner doesnt fit.
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I know theyre not a tight fit as the bush is only a support because the gearbox shaft already runs in two bearings inside and also it has no type of external lubrication. However my Vitesse workshop manual (very similar gearbox but not sure if identical) shows a max clearance of 0.316mm between tip and bush with the latter designed to have an ID between 12.795 and 12.813mm....
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you need white paint on the relevant timing mark and maybe dimmer back ground lighting to maximize the effectiveness of your strobe but obviously not too dark that it becomes risky....
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The non OD speedo drive is just about level with the oil fill plug so some oil should come out but if you have a 'bung' ready you can remove it without much spillage....
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Oil certainly can come from the speedo drive and is quite likely as its a rotating part that relies on o rings to seal which could have hardened or broken by now.
Cant see that the gasket sealer could do any harm. If the new gasket is now leaking it can only be down to loose bolts or the surfaces werent clean/flat....
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That sounds like a very low torque if they were done to the correct figure on rebuild. Also did they explain to you about retorquing after the engine had been run? I would have thought they would have wanted you to come back for them to do it....
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That is quite a bit of oil! Apart from the front crank leak my other leaks all seem to disperse over the underside of the car so keeping everything rusproofed👍
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Watch out, chasing oil leaks on a Triumph is the road to insanity!
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well Steve, then that only leaves air in the system to explain why the overflow bottle never worked properly....
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As I say clamp the rear hoses (as long as you dont have the wound wire protector type of course) and youll know for sure if drum adjustment is the problem. Can save a lot of work.....
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youre probably right Pete but it is possible for the coolant pressure to go higher than this due to the expansion of water on initial heating (and freezing of course) if the cap doesnt open correctly to discharge the excess....
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If the pedal was good before starting this repair its shouldnt be poorly adjusted shoes. However you can clamp off brake hoses with G clamps to prove this......
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done both so the only thing I can put it down to, other than justice, is that I found the original oil pump not great due to excess end float. This didnt look like wear so was probably from new and obviously meant that the oil pressure although never low could have been better. Now with new oil pump fitted we'll see how long these bearings last.....
Charging issue, on Vitesse
in Electrical System
Posted
yes Dave that should indicate a dynamo problem, most likely worn brushes and/or commutator. Unlikely to be armature or field windings as you'd smell it so remove back cover for a looksee....