johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Well if the gears all select ok the theory is that the problem is elsewhere with the lever mechanism as the prime suspect. I wouldn't disturb more than necessary and of course don't drop anything in the open box!
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As I say can you try to move those selectors by hand to test their operation and check the detects? Get an appropriate tool (something similar to the ball of the operating arm?) in each slot and slide each through their normal travel. There's a bit of resistance and then they should suddenly slide into gear so careful of fingers and knuckles. Don't force anything...
The whole selector assembly will indeed unbolt from the top of the cast iron gearbox case and can be lifted off to leave just the gear shafts below.
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On 30/05/2020 at 19:07, Pete Lewis said:
then add some decent washers ???? ( reset the toe in) like you sometiimes do for calipers
def not on any parts list but the idea is from somewhere
Can I ask what you mean by the 'calipers' comment Pete?
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Hi the mounts positioning looks ok to me but they are a bit perished. This isn't a problem as long as they are still well bonded to the metal ends. Sometimes replacement mounts don't last as long as serviceable originals...
With the gear selection you could try moving each selector locally with a suitable metal tool. Takes a bit of effort and of course 1/2 is in the middle, 3/4 left side and reverse right.
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Remember to keep all the bits you don't use so you can start the essential collection of half used spares😂
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I wish I had 3 Triumphs to fit them to😥 but no it was down to a severe case of impatience...
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My block came machined with a stepped underside so it fitted tightly into the slot on the top of the diff. This leaves only the possible side to side movement on the stud holes but if clamped properly won't move...
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My block came machined with a stepped underside so it fitted tightly into the slot on the top of the diff. This leaves only the possible side to side movement on the stud holes but if clamped properly won't move...
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My block came machined with a stepped underside so it fitted tightly into the slot on the top of the diff. This leaves only the possible side to side movement on the stud holes but if clamped properly won't move...
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It sounds very much like your gear lever linkage is worn (very common) and the excessive play means the selector engagement lever on top of the box can't move to the right position. Luckily you can replace the various linkage bushes and bits external to the box but the gearbox cover/sound deadner will have to come off.
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Hi, I take the lever physically won't move into the second gear position from third? And yes don't force it!
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Thing is I've never found the crank pilot bushes to be very worn which always surprises me. Maybe just a little bit of wear is enough to see off the tip bearing so the box has to come out....
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I prefer door forwards as much as possible and quarterlight back as required to ensure the rear of the glass has good coverage of the seal on the B post. This also helps to close up the door to bonnet gap which on many cars is too big....
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Difficult to judge but looks like your door might go forwards a bit more and maybe tilt down some to even up the rear edge gap. The bonnet might also go down a little further adjusting the rubber stops to keep the chrome strips level. I've found having the quarter light as close to the A pillar helps reduce wind noise and sealing there but if it's too tight the quarterlight can be moved on its mountings inside the door shell. Don't think youll get it perfect but maybe an improvement...
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Can we see a pic of the front of the door including quarter light Paul?
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My existing oil hole runs from the space between the synchro engage teeth and the main gear and is angled to come out the rear. The new hole will have to be completely separate and it'll be hard but I want to drill from a trough in about the middle of the main gear directly in to meet up with that bearing oil hole...
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Thanks Nick, thats exactly what I was thinking but using one of these and a centre drilled oil feed. I might go fo a 16mm long bearing as the mainshaft tip will only be 19mm. Were there any difficulties drilling the oil hole?
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Yes I can see that would be problem so think a 'machined' type needle roller bearing better as these come with an oil hole already drilled in the outer race. This would have to line up with a lube hole in the input shaft but the downside with this type of bearing is their larger outside diameter...
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22 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
If the mainshaft is knackered (they usually are) and the bore in the input shaft also, it is possible to buy new mainshafts with larger tips (18mm vs 1/2") and machine out the bore of input shaft to take a needle roller with outer sleeve. I did this on my GT6 gearbox last year. I also had a hole drilled through the tooth root so that the meshing gears would force-feed oil to the bearing, as lubrication is a problem with these.
Only done 500 miles so far, but so far so good.....
Nick
If it's not a trade secret Nick can you go into exactly what you did for the gearbox mod? What size and type bearing did you use and how was it located in the input shaft? Thanks
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I'm wondering if that DC is really DG....
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The 1600 had different ratios to the 2L especially 1st but I suspect that unit could be from a 1300 or 1500 Dolomite or similar. You could count the ratio if interested....
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It's definitely a 3 rail box but has the later j type overdrive. I don't recognise the serial number but that's nothing unusual!
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51 minutes ago, daverclasper said:
Hi Pete. I think I have always measured the the longest distance between the bottom of float and gasket face, which on reflection, is not correct.
Guess a removal of carbs to check this is in order?.
Cheers, Dave
No Dave you've got it right, I think we're just getting mixed up here. It's measured from the lowest point of the float when in its raised position (i.e. as if the float chamber was full of fuel) to the bowl joint face.
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Yes this needs sorting out as both pistons should sit flat and rise together. If you lift the piston with a finger (engine off) it should drop back down with a clunk. Mine didn't and it was because the needle wasn't centred in the jet. Once you have this correct it sounds like the carbs should be balanced to make sure the same airflow is going through each one.
Herald 1200 timing chain/tensioner worth inspection?
in Engine
Posted
The chain will probably be ok but the tensioner rubs directly on it so the links wear two channels. It can look bad but presumably carries on doing its job for a long time before breaking up... I would open it up for peace of mind especially as you have the gasket and seal. After 8 years there's no rush to get it on the road is there🤣