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johny

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Posts posted by johny

  1. Thinking about it you could be right about the prop because presumably this box is as it came from a US GT6 so they must have used a shorter prop there. Also I assumed the flanges were interchangeable but with Triumph you can't assume anything so it sounds like you need quite a specific item. I still think there must be one somewhere though....

  2. Yes that's a J type OD but I can't understand why it's so much longer than the original box when normally you would expect no more than 1" difference compared to the standard D type gearbox. The serial number stamped on the top RH side of the cast iron gear case would be useful to know as well....

  3. 4 hours ago, NonMember said:

    You can get R/A leads (in fact I think mine has them but that might be the GT6 or the Spitfire) and they are neater, just not what everyone lists.

    Thanks it's just I'm too tight to pay out when my originals are still perfect🤑

  4. 1 hour ago, NonMember said:

    The cap is designed to open when pressure in the system is below atmospheric (to draw water back from the "desertising" bottle) or above atmospheric by at least 7PSI (or 13PSI on later cars). If you've got, say 3PSI above atmosphere when cold, it should retain that.

    What I'm less clear on is how you achieve that. One way is if you checked it on a warm day after a cold night. The car has got cold overnight, meaning the water contracted slightly and more was let in. Then it has warmed up, so the water has expanded and produced a bit of pressure, but not enough to open the cap.

    The only problem with that explanation is that water is fairly close to incompressible, so the expansion would create quite a lot of pressure, which would open the cap.

    I think you got the explanation there right because a rise in ambient temp can't produce enough pressure to lift the cap otherwise the system could be sitting there with 13psi in it which would make opening the cap difficult. Also don't forget the hoses expand slightly. I think I calculated my system produces an expansion of about 250cc from 0 to 100c....

  5. Hmmm sounds like new rad should be on the shopping list and if the budget is tight I really recommend an ally chinese Honda Civic one even though it does require a bit of fettling. Also is your controller powered up all the time to allow the fan to run on?

  6. 5 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

    When I had my GT6 rad re-cored (to try and retail originality), I had a boss added into the top tank, to take a standard fan switch. (Can't quite remember what temp rating I'm using)

    This works well, but as I have wired the fan to run on with the ignition off, if the engine is switched off whilst the fan is still running, it can take a while to switch off as there is no circulation from the pump and hot water is trapped in the head and top tank. Easy enough to control by just allowing the engine to run until the fan switches off. 

    A manual override is also very worthwhile and can be used to pre-empt the fan switch.

    Ian

    As long as the thermostat is open don't forget that the thermosyphon effect will still give a certain amount of coolant circulation. Mine needed a bit of choke on a  restart after quite short stops until I adjusted the fan settings.....

  7. Ok I can understand the modulating effect but if an 82* thermostat is working fine in the winter why shouldn't it be ok in summer? If the coolant temperature has gone too high the thermostat will be fully open and putting in a lower temp thermostat won't help! 

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