johny
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Posts posted by johny
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What about the tee pins and washers that retain the shoes? They should hold them against the backplate...
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Yes gearbox repair is really satisfying, well it is if it works afterwards🤔
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It could be used with your overdrive but it's a major job. Also bit pricey for a non 2L box with no guarantees....
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3 hours ago, Ingieuk said:
Interesting stuff. I'm starting to think I shouldn't have ordered the rebuild kit now as I'm only going to use the needles, circlips, bearings, one thrust washer and oil seals. Leaving a thrust washer, lay shaft, four syncro rings, syncro springs and syncro balls languishing in my tool box.
I also have a circlip conundrum to work out. The circlip at the rear of the extension that was in pieces is around 3mm thick, the circlip groove is 1mm. It looks like it should have the same type with the two little eyes as on the rest of mainshaft (other than 3rd gear). The question is which one is right? The exploded diagram doesn't reference this circlip at all so I have part numbers to go off.
I've attached a pic with both types and the requisite groove for comparison.
Yes I would have recommended not getting a rebuild kit unless absolutely necessary as even the new Korean main bearings may not be as long lasting as the originals you're throwing away☹️
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That list of parts are for single rail boxes but they're probably the same for the three....
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The rear bearing should be able to move axially in the housing so shouldn't put pressure on that spacer. I wonder if it gets broken when doing up the flange nut....
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I found the same rear bearing spacer in pieces in a box sometime back. Did you have any problems getting the speedo drive gear off?
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In fact that isn't the right spacer in the photo as it's too big and looks to be for the centre bearing
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Theres no circlip on the rear bearing it's just the spacer that comes up against the shoulder at the end of the shaft and then the bearing pushed on next all clamped together by the flange nut. The bearing is fixed on the shaft but can move in the housing to allow for thermal expansion...
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1 hour ago, Ingieuk said:
I know! Excellent deduction. I guess this would give sufficient movement to prevent 2nd gear engaging. This all started when I was slowing down for a roundabout, I wonder if with the 3rd gear circlip already well on it's way a (by my own admission) slightly-too-high-revs downshift was enough to say ta-ra to the rear circlip. I guess we will see when it all goes back together, that will be a nervy first drive.
Layshaft bearing surfaces look very good too. I do wonder if this box is a not too old recon. I know the owner previous to me did very few miles. He purchased it from the original restorer. The cases have been (quite poorly) powder coated and its flaking off in a lot of areas but then stuck very well in others. I think it will just get a coat of engine enamel when I'm done, no one will be looking that closely!
Syncros wise I've got a new set coming so unless the new ones are poor quality, this set will be kept as spares.
Wonder if we're talking about the same thing here. I've just opened up a box and the layshaft is very good and must have been replaced at some stage but the LAYGEAR surfaces are shot. Mind you don't know what I can do about it anyway!
New synchros can look great but but have a reputation for being the wrong material spec and not lasting very long....
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Sounding good, are the bearing surfaces in each end of the laygear good as well? Careful with the synchro hubs as there might be very small spacers in the bottom of the holes where the springs and balls go that are used to set the correct spring pressure. Also good to check the synchro rings for wear to their grooves and how far each ring will go onto it's respective gear cone. You could swop the rings around as 2nd and 3rd usually have had the hardest life...
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3 hours ago, Bobtaylor said:
Hi, I have a MK1 Vitesse which has had a replacement bonnet from a MK2. Is the actual bonnet the same (apart from the grille) ? Is it a simple job to fit the correct grille, assuming I can find one?
It's funny as I'm thinking of going the opposite way as I suspect the MK1 grill might restrict airflow quite a bit more than the mk2. Sorry not going to get rid of the original grill just yet though☹️
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No, we need more elephants!
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On 05/06/2020 at 11:54, dougbgt6 said:
I tried dimpled and grooved, no noticeable difference to everyday driving and nobody tells you they are NOISEY. I moved them on and reverted to standard and Mintex pads.
Doug
I thought the theory was they help remove the gases released from the pads under very heavy braking so won't make any difference for normal road driving...
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Not sure about the original gaskets as I found em pretty useless so made one from 2mm rubber sheet using a paper hole punch for the screw holes...
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Yes spread the load on the sump with a piece of wood and try not to leave the gearbox hanging off the engine unsupported. Then be careful the input shaft doesn't fall on the clutch assembly as you withdraw the tip from the flywheel. Can be done by one but best with someone on both sides...
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You'll need to look at the condition of the surfaces where needle rollers run on directly. These are the tip of the main shaft and corresponding hole in the input shaft plus inside each end of the laygear. These areas are surface hardened and once this is worn through are a problem....
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Yes unfortunately it's likely that you'll find some other worn components in the box and will have to decide whether to live with them or spend some money. Either way there's plenty of expertise on here to help you decide....
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It shouldn't be difficult either way but sometimes the nipple gets bunged up and/or it's spring loaded ball jammed which can happen if the job is done infrequently...
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Ha it's basically the same box as the 948 Herald!
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Just had another thought about the possibility of the reverse stop bolt being longer than standard. If it has been changed st some stage and is too long could that make 1/2 gear change difficult even if set correctly? Wonder if operator position could be measured with lever against reverse stop and compared with 1/2 selector slot...
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Well now if the gear lever assembly has been overhauled (when holding the selector operator stationary you shouldnt be able to waggle the gear lever from side to side at all) you could try putting it back in place to try gear selection...
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Hi, everyone makes mistakes but unfortunately you might be in for a surprise on Triumph prices now....
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Hmmm I've always had a problem with one of my calipers taking ages to fully bed in new pads because it runs at a slight angle to the disc so I suppose it might be possible to shim it square?
Dropping the propshaft out and rear brake cylinder
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
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The splined section does separate but access to it is limited so it's normal to undo the gearbox flange bolts and this might be best done from inside the car...