johny
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Posts posted by johny
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yes you are correct sir, just looked at the oil circulation diagram and you could vent from there plus check that it's properly closed at the same time👍
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It's after the filter isn't it?
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32 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Hi thanks again for all input I will loosen the filter , remove the plugs and fire up until oil is visible . How long should I fire up for each time 10 secs ? And finally how many times before I have to give up
Nb I still have the old filter from the Club . I could fit that loosely ?
Paul
another thought I could drop the oil and refill , could that be helpful in removing the possible airlock
Can't see any point changing oil Paul and if oil doesn't leak (spray?) from the loosened filter almost immediately you've got a serious problem that will need internal access☹️
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Hi, when installing the trunnions you have to leave enough of the thread exposed to allow for the full movement of the assembly during steering from lock to lock. If it's on too far I suppose the seal could come up against the bottom of the vertical link. However I think it's more likely this is another example of the poor quality of many rubber components being supplied now....
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Great, if the rubber pad thing is in there and you clamp it all up to the correct torque I think you're good to go....
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From what I can see the correct bottom plate looks thinner and slightly wider with shamfered edges. It does also look more prone to bowing by over tightening...
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33 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I'm trying to work out the fault, if it lies with the filter... so bear with me for some written-down thinking out loud...
The oil goes into the filter around the outer edge, through the element and back into the engine through the threaded bit? So the anti-drain filter just moves in / up to allow oil in, but in one direction only, so it can't run back out.
The fact that there's no oil pressure at all makes me blame the pump; if the filter was blocking the flow, would the oil pressure not be excessive and the gauge go right off the scale before the bypass kicked in?
Another thing to try - as YS says above - fill the filter with fresh oil, then fit it. Messy, but it's full from the word go.
Pressure switch/gauge take off is after the filter so won't register a blockage.
Of course another way to get zero/low pressure is a stuck fully open pressure relief valve...
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Most filters have a bypass valve as well that opens at a set pressure to avoid starvation in the event of a blockage...
However as Pete says there doesn't seem to be any other explanation! Before changing the filter you could try a final spin without spark plugs to get some speed up...
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I thought the difference was hydraulic fluid absorbs any water and so its more dispersed through the system while silicone being non hydroscopic and lighter leaves it to collect at the lowest point. For this reason it's difficult to remove the water by bleeding a silicone filled system and the water can remain to cause corrosion damage...
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Correct, there's extra pivot points for additional wishbones and mountings for lever arm dampers rather than the telescopics of the MK1....
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I suspect that the bottom plate is the wrong one if it has 6 holes and not 4. However don't know what difference this will make....
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One fairly major difference is related to the rear suspension as here the MK1 and 2 had quite different designs....
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1 hour ago, Jeffds1360 said:
Nice to 'meet' you Chris. It is good to know that some cars are actually on the road!.... It will be a few more days before I get the brakes sorted :) unless their performance at the moment is all I can expect! Would a servo addition be 'anti classic?'
Right I'll get this started then😉Servo can be good to get a more modern feel to brakes if you do find them too strange but be warned you won't have ABS and getting in a skid in one of our cars is not fun☹️
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Think your box is from 70 to 75 and you'll have to be careful with ordering spares if you decide to rebuild the gearbox at some stage as there were differences between early and late 3 rail gearboxes particularly with the synchro rings.
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Don't think it's been overstamped just the G was initially stamped horizontally. Seems to be quite common to have poor stamping and I wonder if Triumph didn't give the job to the apprentices back in the day....
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You might be able to confirm a recoup seal leaking by checking if the level in the reservoir goes up slightly as the pedal sinks to the floor. You will have to mark the level somehow before an assistant presses the pedal....
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I've never heard them sound like the 'exhaust popping' though and not had them deteriorate in 100miles either. If they did I would expect them to be pretty shot and have lots of play.....
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Looks like they're 8.09 each with Eurocarparts incl discount code and free delivery if you order two....
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I take it your car has overdrive fitted Richard as if not it probably wouldn't have a 3.89 ratio diff as standard?
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Strange as my 68 MK1 that I've had since '87 at 32000miles had a rubber one with a castle nut...
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The springs were a later mod to reduce laygear rattle especially in neutral so not so important. The reverse gear however is if it's making contact in first gear and there's been threads on here detailing struggles to avoid it...
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I'm surprised such a late diff has that early type of seal as I thought they would have gone over to lip seals by then! What's the serial number stamped length ways on the underside of the front casing?
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They do seem to need tightening up a lot to seal but that's a standard plug so don't know with yours...
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The other thing is I think the splined joint is normally at the diff end...
No Oil Pressure Vitesse mk2
in Engine
Posted
just unscrews and should have a spring loaded plunger inside that seals against a hole that directs excess oil back the sump.