johny

Heres the profile Paul with the backing strip still in place...

Well theyve got to be 6mm which those are but theyre frameless. The ones I used (dont have details now) have a plastic backing strip with metal clip at one end. However those bits had to be removed to get it to fit the original metal wipers so maybe frameless would be best. Compare the blade profile in the ad photos with your exisiting ones - worth it as cheap as chips and work well (within the limitations of the 60 yr old drive motor of course)...

Silicone rubber refills off ebay?

Perfect, I couldnt see the two nuts between the fork and coupler in your photo. For future reference heres the item that would do the job on ebay:

I see UNF stud connectors are available on ebay (although round not hex) so these could be the way to go for anyone with the same problem in the future. However looking at Trigolfs photo Im not sure of the adjustment as the cable stretches. I think I would have shorter joiner and longer threaded rod into the fork so that way the adjustment could be done as always - slacken fork external nut, remove fork cotter pin, rotate fork and its internal square nut to take up the slack and reassemble. That way the joiner doesnt have to undone at all...

If its the same as mine you have to tilt the buckle the opposite way to its normal wearing position ie so the straps come out towards the front of it instead of the back as in your photo. Then the belt should slide through the buckle to get the length you want....

Yes perhaps if the issue of the cables being supplied too short cant be resolved the way to go is to get longer end forks made - certainly simple enough....

Yes until electronics came in it looks like there were three possible drive configurations used at different times and different manufacturers but not sure the reasons why in each case: off the dynamo, the distributor or the cam shaft

I can see 465 quid new!

Oh I dont know much about those except a PO must have spent some big money on it! I take it ball bearings both ends so nothing to lubricate?

Yes there were various configurations of Lucas dynamos and I dont think a tacho drive version was ever used on our Triumphs as if required this was usually taken from the distributor. Anyway will work fine as long as you can still get the occasional drop of lube oil into the rear bush👍

yes could have done with them😁

I dont want to talk about it as still too painful😭

Ive just done my woodwork recently because of unforeseen circumstances where it spent at least 5 days under water. This caused a large amount of the original varnish to come off by itself but left the veneer good and the end result is brilliant. Dont know if I can recommend this method as the dash did warp a little but might be worth a go....

Hopefully the existing varnish isnt bad and you can get away with just keying it. Otherwise you have the dilema of how to remove it without damaging the veneer which is very thin and easy to rub through...

I wonder if being in the middle has an effect too...

Looks like you want part 501652 which I think with this number means isnt a standard item as shown in that catalog. Canley show them as available to order so might be worth having a word....

True and as Pete indicated above people have come up with mods to enable installing/removing of the solenoid with the gearbox in place👍

Let us know the result Iain - it could be the holy grail, a dry Triumph!

Trouble is how good are they Colin? Seem to be plenty of complaints about these pattern replacements including recomendations to try to find NOS and sure enough Rich's doesnt look very old☹️

I think those screws must hold the cap in place but maybe it needs some gentle levering in the gap to release it? Does the plunger come out as per the manual?

This is what the free to download workshop manual shows...

Believe its like official fuel consumption figures and theres a standard test which covers different driving conditions. This is going to be very complicated and expensive to do on individual vehicles so if the manufacturer hasnt supplied a figure for your car Im afraid any charges based on CO2 will be at the default (maximum) level...

Vehicle pollution measures like ULEZ arent about CO2 which is a natural gas that we breath all the time. Its a by product of efficiently burning carbon which unless concentrated isnt harmful to the body and which you cant stop with catalytic convertors. Then its difficult to quantify a vehicles emissions of CO2 as theres lot of variables and of course its closely related to fuel consumption so I doubt its ever going to be possible to get it measured anywhere easily...

Yes if its been ok for that long cant be too much wrong but you can always feel or smell for any warmth in the wires and connections. After a jump start of your flat battery would be about the most arduous conditions you could have of the whole charging system...