johny

Ooop steering is important so double checks are a good idea👍

Yes the further the magnets, metal trigger or optical cut outs are from the centre of rotation the less difference errors in their installation position should make to the firing timing. We set the timing correctly for cylinder 1 but if the trigger is poor who knows when the other cylinders are firing...

What did that company say?

I cant add anything about quality but an interesting point for me is the diameter of the different triggers as I believe the larger they are the more accurate the firing point is likely to be🤔

With the wheel bearings the front should have some play and it is a problem with many mot testers failing them which is totally wrong. There will always be some slack in the drive train its when it becomes noticeable changing from power to trailing throttle that action is necessary...

Yes actually probably more suitable than my 5.5 width... Only downside could be that choice is more limited

All depends if its causing a problem...

Got 165/80 13 on 5.5 minilites fitted to my vitesse and really recommend them. More comfortable, look good cos they fill the arches and drop cruising revs (although of course this will change your speedo reading)...

No there should be no rotational play. Those balls you see in the pic fit snuggly into the channels in the cup so can slide in and out and to different angles but as they always sit in the same position they wear pockets in the channels so are no longer snuggly! Can you feel anything when driving? If not drive more😁

I think the trouble with our cars is that theres very little movement for the propshafts (angular or axial) so all the torque is always taken in exactly the same spot resulting in localised wear while the rest of the component is fine! I almost wonder if it wouldnt be worth making up a spacer to go between the flanges so that the prop runs a little bit shorter...

I take it youve spoken to these to glean information? They offer crownwheel and pinnions but there appears to be two versions of each ratio... Parts for Standard Motor Company Standard 8 and 10 Cars (standard8n10spares.co.uk)

Hmmm 3mm is a lot and no normal oversize bearings will take that up so theres a possibility the existing have either fallen out of place or worn severely. In either case the risk is that the crank and/or case have been damaged so need to be closely inspected...

Yes its to do two jobs, permit axial movement as the distance between gearbox and diff changes plus angular movement as they go up and down relative to each other. Before this was done with a sliding joint plus separate UJ and Ive not seen inside one of these later design jobbies but I imagine its like a CV joint on FWD car drive shafts. There shouldnt be any play but if your not noticing any vibration or clonking in transmission take up then its not an immediate worry...

But what did you do exactly with the epoxy filler?

I would say it isnt an urgent job as noisy taper rollers can go on for a long time although its a pity there doesnt seem any way to get a bit more grease to them☹️

In fact Im surprised the bearings are noisy as it looks a pretty robust set up (stronger than the first type) although I understand the set up of the preload shims is very important for longevity...

Dont forget gents this is Rotaflex so half shafts shouldnt be a problem. The manual is pretty good Pete describing the job....

Have just remembered another possible explanation. Some models have a rubber damper system on the crankshaft pulley to reduce vibration and its in the form of a bonded in rubber ring between the centre that fits to the crank and the outer part with the timing marks. Theres been quite a few cases of this rubber part finally degrading sufficiently to allow movement between the two with the result that the timing marks can no longer be relied apon. If this has happened in your case when you think your at TDC youre not so of course the ignition timing seems to be incorrect. You might be able to feel movement between inner and outer or otherwise try to feel for the top pistion of the no1 piston through its sparkplug hole to confirm that it matches the mark...

As Steve said previously the only thing that would explain the change is that the distributor body isnt clamped solidly at it base so has been free to move. With the clamp loose it has rotated itself so far round that number two position has now taken the place of 1....

I dont understand how it can be running ok and then suddenly the leads are in the wrong position! Puzzled of Kent

Nice, youve got about the strongest small chassis gearbox Triumph made. Did the gear lever come out in the correct place and the lower ratio first gear suits the car?

Yes if it was running previously it cant be adjustments that are wrong so probably something failed like electronic ignition, coil, distributor advance mechanism stuck etc

Also while youre at it you could disconnect the pipe at the carbs and let it discharge into a container while an assistant operates the starter (with coil disconnected) to see if youre getting a good flow👍

First before you change anything else I would get the crank timing mark lined up ensuring no 1 cylinder is on compression. That is remove no 1 sparkplug and you should feel air being pushed out as the crank is turned clockwise just coming up to the timing mark. Then confirm which lead the rotor arm is pointing to in the distributor cap...

Cant see much point coverting a 2L as even if Petes existing is 'really sweet' by the time you replace crank and pistons its basically a different engine!