johny

would have thought thats possible especially if youre going to get the right ones from them. However it looks like there are no parts for use with the wires so they have to be chucked even if good. Then the pricing maybe an error as it appears to be cheaper (a bit) to buy the straps and foam separately... Heres the instructions from Rimmers: SF4025_Fitting_Instructions.pdf

I take it you bought RH5112 but need to swop it for RV6019 which looks to be designed for use without the squab wires. Rimmers do the latter in a kit (RV6113) which comes with the foam but as far as I can make out this adds 120 quid to the price!!!

Be aware Martin that Dougal runs Longstone tyres...

So tyres get thrown away early and more have to be made which produces more emisions - not easy this environmental stuff and it seems the only winners are the manufacturers😒

yes that used to be a big problem on motorcycle carbs and they eventually went to electrical heaters to stop them freezing...

Difficult to properly renovate gearboxes yourself these days as many spares arent available and any unit you buy will almost certainly need bits and probably machining so requiring a specialised business...

I suppose a manumatic system I could use on the Vitesse is just to disconnect the aircleaner hoses in winter😁

Never had SUs but I think they still have a choke for cold starting and the waxstat like the bimetallic system on later Stromberg is just for running in different ambient temperatures. Certainly need something cos as you say it makes a big different to the mixture and some cars even had a air intake position changeover system so for winter you took it from near the exhaust....

Is that what waxstats are intended to do?

manual says two versions of oil pressure switch early 4.5 - 7.5psi and later 3 - 5psi. I think crank bearing surfaces will be ok but bearings and pump worn like my engine was...

The rattling doesnt come from lack of oil but increased clearance between crank and bearing - this of course does happen rapidly if there isnt sufficient lubrication. However the oil light on can just indicate the pressure being produced is less than the switch setting not that theres no oil...

And dont forget temp gauge isnt linear, far from it, so 1/4 could be 75º and half 85º for example. Could be worth having a visual check of the thermostat....

The other way of looking at it Doug is that any coolant stopped from going to the manifold/heater is sent to the radiator for cooling👍

However do also check that the viscous fan, if fitted, can spin freely...

Sounds like you could do with winter and summer thermostats just like in the old days😁

To make things even more complicated I dont think coolant colour can be relied upon to indicate the type as the manufacturers havent agreed an official standard! Anyway all types these days should be good for alloy although perhaps some are more protective of this than others. Then of course that protection only lasts so long and perhaps the most important consideration is the coolant life... Ive gone to green as I now have an aluminium radiator and use the same stuff as for my motorbike but diluted from the 50% concentration that requires.

Dont know if it applies to all vehicles as I cant imagine lorries for example having the same requirement?

Yes no point advancing if youve got pinking. However if not some people are trying more advance than the manual setting...

Yes now weve identified the port in the water pump housing that allows flow with the thermostat closed the jiggle pin is pretty much redundant except perhaps to release air on the system initial fill....

Sounds like you might need the old radiator blind remedy. In fact I believe some moderns are getting auto ones nowadays but dont know if thats just to keep heat in after stopping...

Theres two issues here Dave. One, lower octanes than our cars were designed for which as you say can be counteracted by retarding ignition. Then two, the increasing percentage of ethanol being added which is much more of an unknown. For the latter we're postulating that advancing the ignition might produce more efficient combustion because the ethanol burn is slower and so possibly not completing until too late...

And youre getting that temperature with a standard radiator and at what ambient temp Iain?

Like a lot of legal matters I believe you have to base these decisions on statistics - is there a problem with accidents due to or aggravated by classic cars being mechanically unsound? If and when thats the case the subject of statutory MOTs should be reviewed.... I feel the same applies to it being illegal to have different makes of tyre on the same axle as in many European countries now. How does my criteria compare with the cost of replacing two tyres after a non repairable puncture?

Correct and its good news for me as Ive installed an isolating valve in the external hose that goes to the manifold and heater. My idea was that in hot climates theres no need for either so instead I could maximise flow through the radiator for improved cooling. Now with the port I can see that on start up the pump and engine still has a minimum flow👍

The subject of allowing test drives is pretty risky especially with classic cars because as the vehicle owner you should really require the buyer to have a fully comp agreed valuation policy....