poppyman
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Posts posted by poppyman
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12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
not feeling very flush right now !
Hope it has a catch tank, wouldnt want the wipers to cope with the spray if a following wind
Pete
The catch tank is the washer bottle Pete, cant have waste can wee
Tony.
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You alway's fit one of these Pete.
Tony.
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You also get that reaction if you have traces of polish or silicon sprays such as WD40. When this starts happening, it's back to bare metal i'm afraid
Some paint suppliers might have a barrier sealer coat that can be sprayed on first. Have a chat with these guy's https://www.yell.com/biz/b-s-supplies-stoke-on-trent-900570331/ they are very helpful.
Tony.
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It really depends how long the touch ups have been standing since filled.... The paint in a touch up is usually a bit thicker and will not mix as well after being shaken. Shake the the touch up for the same time as the rattle can, then put a screwdriver in the touch up...... You will find the base of the can will still be thicker and a different colour. If you have paint mixed for home you will see how it is mixed and how it is shaken. You can try popping a few ball bearings in the touch up to help it mix like the rattle can....
Tony.
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1 hour ago, thescrapman said:
M
if your current policy is under written by ERS then you will get same quote from PJ +/- a few £. As I discovered a few weeks, tried 4 brokers, all use ERS, and each knew more about me than I told them, so we're getting details of my named drivers from ERS.
I eventually found a different underwriter via Cherished Insurance, saved 40% compared with PJ.
Strange one that Scrapman, i tried them last year and the very helpful chap said he couldn't do the breakdown cover for my three cars for what i was paying...... I guess there must be so many things they take into quotes? I even have a 25year old on the policy. Mine is ERS BTW.
Tony.
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6 hours ago, Mashby said:
Hello,
Today my insurance renewal dropped on the mat. My car is a 1968 Herald 1360 convertible and it is a standard car (nothing clever like different engine etc)
I am currently with Foootman James and my renewal quote is £206.18. It includes recovery and agreed insurance value of £5k on unlimited miles (which I really don’t need)
Can anyone recommend another company who could possibly beat this quote or am I doing okay with this quote from Footman James?
many thanks
M
I doubt you will beat Peter James 0121 506 6040. A few questions done over the phone. For agreed value you will have to fill in a form and send them three recent photo's of your car. Easy as that
Tony.
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Have you got the barrells out?
Tony.
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Never saw the "cooper" pipe when i bought one.......I must have been doing yoga
Tony.
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Thank you! When I first did it, in copper with a ready-made kit, some of the bends were a bit... extravagant. Kunifer is much more forgiving for straight lines than copper, but much harder to get good bends with no kinks. I've practiced a lot since. That long front pipe was the hardest as it goes under both front suspension turrets, so unlike most of the others, which were shaped on the bench, that one had to be bent on the car. The entire thing worked first time, lovely bends, no kinks, perfect distances between, a real gem, then I got to the end, flared the final flare for the driver's side brake hose with a hand flare tool, and realised I hadn't put the pipe end on first... luckily my pipe cutter has a small insert for flared pipes so I only had to remove about a quarter inch, then do it properly. Now I have to replace the fuel pipe, which I think may be 1/4? It was originally steel but had pitted badly so it's been removed just short of the banjo bolt to allow a connection to the tank, and is definitely thicker than the brake pipe - I can actually put the brake pipe down into it. That will be today's job, plus rebuilding the front suspension.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Bender-Bending-Pliers-For-Cooper-Tube-3-16-And-1-4-Pipe-Making/122209061011?hash=item1c743a4893:g:RH8AAOSwqaJadeO7 Get one of these Colin, no more kinks. Apart from those you share with Doug' on his other site
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2 hours ago, ahebron said:
I lost a socket on my Peugeot 405, couldnt find it anywhere. It turned up in the diff after a trip home on a trailer. But thats another story for a different forum.
Peugeot 405's ( and others) are famous for spitting their diffs out through the side of the box
Worn diff bearings...
Tony.
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2 hours ago, yorkshire_spam said:
These little b*ggers are strong! I've even sealed them in the end of plastic tubes before now to go fishing down inside timing covers and places like that for lost washers.
They are great little things those rare earth magnets, i have used them in sockets as well Sam.
Tony.
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36 minutes ago, Adrian Saunders said:
Pete, did you ever try Schnorr washers? They’re quite similar to a Belleville but they have serrations both sides.
I always wondered what they were called Adrian, i was given some ages ago and they are brilliant.
Tony.
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Also worth checking for a duff spark plug or lead even if they are new?
Tony.
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
Adrian,
I did 2 doors, the rear hatch and petrol cap on my GT6. I got feed up carrying 4 different keys so I took the barrels apart and reorganised the tumblers, now 1 key fits all.
If I recall correctly the barrels were all held in with circlips and came out quite easily. These were all simple “flat” keys but the ignition was much more “sophisticated” 😆 so didn’t attempt that.
Doug
I have just done the same on my Stag, matched everything to the ignition key. It is an easy job but a bit fiddly, take them apart on a tray then you can find the bits you will drop.
Tony.
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My old gaffer when i was an apprentice used to throw a duff horn as hard as he could at a brick wall....... 95% success rate. Just try it with one that does not work? Anyone else tried this? Ps, plastic ones shatter on impact !!
Tony.
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18 minutes ago, Steve P said:
I used a can of Australian stuff called "StartYouB4stard" on an old V8 Merc years ago.
S
Still going in Aus that stuff Steve.
Tony.
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Ever put a 5p in behind someone's wheel trim? They'll go mad looking for the source of the rattling tinny noise... until finally they take the wheel off...
Connect the horn to an indicator with a couple of scotch locks or earth the oil light switch when they are not looking....... Great fun when they have just done an oil and filter change.
Tony.
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On 27/04/2020 at 19:30, Adrian Cooper said:
My only experience is with my Mk2 Spitfire but I have been wrestling with poor aftermarket choke cables ever since I bought the car in 1985. Most never stay where you put them, many of them look cheap and all of them have been far too stiff. The last one required such force that it needed both hands to pull it out, and the dashboard would bend outwards too. Time for action.
I started by looking at the return spring on the carbs. I undid the one that was there and was surprised to see that the jet tubes returned to their normal position just with the action of the springs that are built into the carb spindles. The other surprise was that the choke knob was just as stiff even when disconnected from the carb. I decided that the problem was with the heavy gauge piano wire that is used in the modern replacement cables and the sharp angle that the cable has to operate through in the narrow space between the carbs and the bonnet. Seeing that the control cable wasn’t really needed to push the jets back I thought that I could use a more flexible cable. After hours of sorting through my collection of choke cable bodies and playing with different types of control wires I found a workable solution using ptfe lined bike brake cables. I did this a couple of months ago and forgot to take any pictures but I have had a go at drawing what I did.
I found a spare knob and drilled it through from the back. When I felt the drill bit break through the plastic I stopped drilling and used a thin rod to push out the transparent plastic disc and knob icon. I then drilled a bigger hole through the knob from the front to accommodate the nipple on the end of the cable. I dismantled an old radio aerial and chose the size of shaft that just fitted into the main body of the choke cable outer (the bit that screws into the dashboard and has the knurled chrome ferule) and I used epoxy to glue the nipple, knob and shaft together (behave yourself Doug). I could have used the original cable outer but the bike one was much better and so I joined this onto the back of the chrome bit with several layers of heat shrink cable wrap. I used Photoshop to draw the choke icon and I printed this onto silver card using a laser printer at work. The original transparent plastic disc just pushed into the front again. With everything fixed back together the choke is now easy to pull out and it does push back reliably.
I have to confess that the aerial shaft has lost its grip a bit and the choke knob does slide back in a little after a bit of driving. I have resorted to the time honoured tradition of using a wooden clothes peg to keep it in place. As you can see from the picture, I have embraced this failure.
If the car struggles to run with the wooden clothes peg? Change to a plastic one, they are a bit wider
Tony.
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Depends on what you using the car for really Paul? If it's like me just when the sun shines or the odd run out at weekends stick with the dynamo. But if you are doing what Clive doe's? It's a must. An alternator in most cases is also cheaper than a dynamo.
Tony.
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3 hours ago, clive said:
To fit an alternator...first buy one. A decent branded one. Denso, Bosch etc, not a new unbranded lucas copy. Ideally get a spitfire etc alternator bracket. Bolt where the dynamo was. Connect the dynamo wiring, but you will likely need an extra wire as the alternator will have a higher output. A nice 30A wire direct to battery + will do a good job.
Rewire the control box. The black negative wire is no longer required. The F and WL wires are joined together. The rest of the wires are then joined together (but not to the wl/F)
I have done the job using a bit of copper pipe, cut open and flattened. Then cut lugs for the connectors. That means no cutting of wires. Use a small box (screwfix/toolstation etc) to put the connections in, or make something.
Voltmeter, ebay about £5
I have seen that method done for years Clive.... Super simple and it works!! A lot of people go for loads of rewiring etc.
Tony.
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Hi Ian, if you have a voltmeter? Connect poss lead to the the big terminal and the other to earth you should have volts coming out? If you do? Then you have a wiring fault.
Tony.
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1 hour ago, Bordfunker said:
Colin seeing as you are on a streak, can you check your stash for Lord Lucan?
Ta
Karl
He will be riding past his house on Shergar.....
Tony.
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13 hours ago, Bordfunker said:
Tony good idea, I hadn’t thought of fibreglass!
The dashboard is now in, but that wouldn’t stop me applying some reinforcement.
What fibreglass and resin product would you recommend?
Thanks
Karl
Hi Karl, this is the stuff i have used and as it happens they now do a kit. It comes in handy for so many things and does not go off which is a bonus.
There is some new stuff about that does not smell? But i have not used it so can't i comment on it. Worth a go though, if you have not used it before it can be messy..... Do a small practice piece first. Brushes etc clean perfectly with thinners.... Unless it's gone off.
Tony.
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Hi Besty, further to what Pete has said, have you replaced the stubaxles or hubs in the rebuild? If not you either have wrong parts or something is fitted wrong.
Tony.
Some paint suppliers might have a barrier sealer coat that can be sprayed on first. Have a chat with these guy's 
Holden/Isuzu Starter motor
in Electrical System
Posted
You are right Colin, Vauxhalls used Isuzu engines in a lot of their vehicles for a long time.
Tony.