blubayou

After 70 miles the car is sitting well, better than it ever has. Totally standard factory fitted spring with Delrin Buttons from a bloke on ebay (BTUK) Approx 1/2 deg negative camber on unladen 1/2 full tank, long driveshafts.

Well got the spring fitted last night. Lowered to the ground, pushed car back & forth... It was awful. Sitting high but with around 2deg Positive camber, like a maladjusted Herald. This morning I was ready to take it off again, but decided to run it around the block to see if it would settle. Success! Looks good, sits an inch higher (approx 24" arch to floor, was just short of 23") and just over 1deg Negative camber

Just fitted these Delrin buttons today. The new Delrin buttons did not fit at all, I had to file a chamfer on the top of each to get them flush to the metalwork. Hell of a job as getting the bundle back into the spring box is very very difficult. Had to release the fixed spring to get it all clamped up. Also had to glue the buttons in place to aid assembly. The longest leaf appeared to have no dimples to fit the buttons, but it does they were bunged up with the remains of the original rubber buttons.

Thanks all, some good ideas. In the short term I've ordered some of those Delrin buttons off ebay. I shall fit them and report back. I can definitely advise NOT to use the Bastuck items, my tap washers were far cheaper, fitted well and at least equally as good Really I could do with a replacement spring with a more pronounced arch but have yet to hear a good report on any modern replacement spring. I was considering heating the two lower leaves near the ends and bending them a little lower. Anyone done this?

Well, last time I fitted tap washers as I had them to hand. This time I have fitted new 'Bastuck' rubber buttons. They don't fit the depressions so had to trim them. Result is no improvement at all. I would like to lift the rear end 2" to be honest, anyone done this?

And before you take the old ones out check they have been fitted the right way round...

I think I too shall refit my British Leyland badges, after all they are original (mounting dimensions anyone???). Has anyone fitted the rear wing badges without drilling? I siliconed my rear chrome in place 20 years ago & its still fixed on.....

Hi all, 20 years ago when I restored my MK4 Spitfire, I fitted the neat bonnet badge but left off the rear side badges, mainly because they required holes drilled in my new wings. I also left off the British Leyland badges on the bonnet sides as they were a reminder of Marinas, 1100s & all things poor quality. All these years on, these old cars gain more respect with every new battery operated car produced. What are peoples feelings? Few seem to fit them.

Thanks Pete, Having dug a little deeper, Canley's list the Moss spring 159640 for earlier short driveshaft mk1Vs, long driveshaft models like mine as 159654, so I'll give it a miss. I may pull the rear spring out over winter and do something with it.

As above really, my spring is original and definitely sits too low causing clearance issues fully laden. I've always wanted it to sit a little higher so it sits level rather than pointing uphill. Reputable seller, £108 delivered. Apparently 45 have been sold, has anyone on here fitted one?

Many years ago I had the Phoenix 4-2-1 manifold on a Mk1V Spitfire. It was a bugger to fit and the joints leaked. I took it off & sold it. I now have a club Bell manifold. It was easy to fit, is made in one piece so doesn't leak and also liberates more power top end. Both with a home brew exhaust using just a single Phoenix rear straight through silencer, not too noisy, sounds great when you want it to.

I fitted a genuine Mk3 cam to my Spitfire which needed the bearings as it has a 13/60 GE block. I used the old GE cam as a drift to fit the bearings. Worked perfectly, just check the oil holes line up well. Would the 6 cylinder be any different? Could be worth a try. If the cam failed to drop into place after fitting the bearings it would point to issues....

Well, the drip tray works... Master cylinder 400 miles & 21 months old. It would appear to be leaking from the joint of reservoir to cylinder.

Just to clarify, the 4 cylinder equivalent is the Mann W713 / 14. Been using these for a few years after a trusted recommendation on here. As above, bulk bought from ECP a few years back.

Thanks for the advice Guys, I'm hoping to lift it up a little. What's the thoughts on clearance, I was thinking 1/4"?

Sorry, this is on a MK1V Spitfire, can this be added to the title?

Hi all, Following the failed fitment of an old Herald full width radiator I have just bought a modern full width replacement from 'accparts' on ebay. I almost bought it last week but ummed & ahhed like you do. They then offered me a 5% discount so it was mine for £142 delivered. Incidentally I bought this as opposed to the trendy alluminium ones as it looks more traditional. Fitment however is a little fraught. The rad fouls the nut on the intake support bracket so this needs removing first. Mounting height - I wanted to fit it as high as possible for a good head of water - I have had to fit it as low as possible, the rad itself is well clear but the cap now clears by about 1/2". The bottom hose fits just in terms of length, alignment is good. The top hose alignment is pretty dreadful but does go on. Anyway it's all in and working. I have a spare top hose in the boot for when the old one splits......

I've used classic spindly rusty 1960's style ramps both front & rear on my Mk4 for many years with no issues. They are quick to set up inspire much more confidence than axle stands. I remember my Morris Marina sliding sideways on axle stands, not an experience I'd like to repeat.....

I had this a while ago on my Spitfire, occasionally misfiring under load or cutting out. Checked all sorts & got nowhere. Whilst fiddling with the key it suddenly showed up. Changed the ignition switch and all has been fine since.

Finding a fibre washer may not be easy at the moment. I made a washer out of copper, just cut a bit of tube open, flatten, drill & cut roughly to shape. Works perfectly.

I do remember back in the 70's when it smelt really funky, no Idea what was i it, but probably some dangerous additive which was later removed. I used if for cleaning & lubing my racing bike. It was also called 'Magic Rocket' WD 40 can anyone else remember this?

Hi Wim, Where yours is showing 62 mine is 62.5. My screen is original but the wing has been replaced.

Hi Paul, I don't actually have any at the moment & tennis elbow means it's not likely now. I've used 'Farcella' in the past, but the bulk of the work is letting it dry hard then rubbing out the runs with 800 down to 1600 wet paper. Anyone tried a low cost polishing machine with success?

Hi Mark, I used 'Standard Thinners' off ebay, £15 delivered. I'm using a very old & cheap spray gun / compressor and it works fine.

Well it came out quite well. It does look a little lighter than the old panel, could this be due to stored paint ageing or old paint darkening? I suppose it could be just badly mixed or just fresher. Or lots of things. I'll put it on the car & see how it looks.