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My son is a single working parent with a 3 yr old, my retirement plans gone out the window! I get time when he's at nursery if I have any energy left lol. Trying to prep and paint bits ready for the re build, started on the door cards today.

It has a clamping plate, better route through the bits on the bench must have it, doh! cheers

I've not revisited the distributor problem yet, been reading your posts and will have another go next week, I've emailed the supplier to let them know I'm having problems so if it needs to go back they are aware. I have also bought a second hand points distributor thought if all else fails I could prove standard works also good to have a spare in the boot.

Thanks for the replys that coating looks good was it expensive? nice looking vit by the way

My seat frame trim has a viynal cream covering which has chipped and looks scruffy, anyone re covered the trim with anything or is it best to remove and paint?

I have done the heater fan upgrade and stripped and re sprayed the box in satin black. Ive put it back together but can't work out why I only have one hole to bolt the heater valve to the box? the flange has two holes, I must be missing something :(

I did the Corsa blower upgrade hope it clears the screen quicker. Thread about it in this forum.

Thanks Pete I ran the fuel pipe using the same line, to save me doing too much pulling and rolling around, I left the old fuel line in place, will remove it when I'm more up to it. No leaks was the priority. I intend to replace the brake pipes with kunifer before the car goes back on the road. your project is looking good :)

Managed to do it, the old rubber fuel lines were in good nick so after blowing the new kunifer pipe through with the air line to clear any muck picked up feeding it through the chassis. Connected up and car runs no more fuel leaks. :)

I don't think there are any members in my area. That could be a good solution and disconnect the fuel line at the tank. Im restoring the car It came to a stop while going through treatment, but now doing light jobs to make some progress.

Just want to get it running so It can be moved I can run the fuel pipe properly when I'm more up to it, the smell of fuel is worrying. Thanks for the Reply Richard.

I need to replace the fuel line on my triumph 13/60 I can see it runs along the chassis but wanted to know where it runs reaching the rear and up to the tank need to plan the easiest way for me to do it. The old fuel pipe is leaking and have bought new kunifer pipe. Im restricted on how much rolling around and stretching I can do due to having major cancer surgery 16 weeks ago, I'm keen to get the fuel pipe sorted so I can move the car and I can smell petrol each time I go in the garage, thought I could just cable tie it to the old pipe just to get it running.

So is it better to leave it where it is and restore and paint around it ?

Should this hinge bolt come out? Looks like it's going to need heat and a lot of persuading if it does !

I did try it, didn't seem to make any difference I have turned the engine over and put it on the timing marks, then re set the distributor to No 1. Then discovered that the fuel pipe under the car was leaking. ordered some kunifer pipe, will have another go when I've fitted the fuel pipe.

Not tried that Poppyman will give it a go tomorrow.

I bought the electronic distributor before reading a thread on this subject which recommended another type sold in the club shop. I fitted it as their instructions checking the coil readings with a multi meter to make sure the coil is compatible, all checked out. Instructions for fitting. turn engine to TDC with rotor pointing at No 1 remove old distributor and fit the new one, distributors with an off set key way can only be fitted in one position. Once fitted if the position of the rotor differs from the original this should be treated as No1 and cap leads should be fitted accordingly. I checked the distributor and the key is not off set, when I dropped it in the rotor was pointing at No 1. The car started but only running on 2 cylinders No's 2 & 3 I removed spark plugs 1 & 4 cleaned and checked for spark which they both had good spark. so I have been trying to work out what's wrong, It was on TDC pointing at No1 but I'm thinking now would it be on the firing stroke? Any thoughts welcome.

Poppyman the fuel priming bubble worked a treat, got fuel up to the pump then used it at the carb, it got fuel to there too. I had fitted a new electronic distributor, cranked her over using the new solanoid with start button while turning the distributor and she fired up. only running on 2 cylinders though, Nos 2 & 3 took plugs out of 1 & 4 cleaned them and checked for spark, which they both have. will have to go post in the ignition forum for some advice on this. Thanks for all your help, the car starts on first crank even on 2 cylinders!

Thanks for the replies it does have a prime lever on the fuel pump, I've been using it and turning the engine over between. That fuel pump bubble is a good idea! I remember having one of those on an outboard boat engine. As said I will put more fuel in and try again. cheers.

My 13/60 herald has been stood for a while, distributor packed up, fitted a new one today and got full spark. my issue at the moment is getting fuel up to the carb, not sure how much fuel is in the tank and probably gone stale anyway, will get a couple of gallon. I remember last time it was stood it was a bigger to get fuel up, but was ok once I did. any tips/ tricks you guys use to get fuel to the carb?

I'm in Lancaster if there are any runs or meeting local.

Great thread I have my heater box out as part of my 13/60 re build, just got a motor for 12.45 off eBay will do the upgrade. Thanks.

Has anyone fitted the full width one (spitfire) to a 13/60 herald, not ready to fit mine yet but would be good to know what's involved.

Thanks for the replies, I have them off the car will give them a good clean see what they look like then.