Colin

Thanks All. Obviously forgot to put notifications on. Mine? No chrome bezel - just the plastic dome top sits on the dash's wood surface

Hi folks, Probably many of you good folk have bought, as I did, a replacement green indicator jewel lens - the edges of mine had crumbled away. Pretty much standard from anywhere you buy one. BUT:- I couldn't see the light indicator operating in broad daylight - the depth of colour of the lens was preventing anything the weenie 2.2W bulb might've been showing. I made two moves:- 1) I bought the LED bulb from the Club shop and, more importantly; 2) I removed the jewel lens. Carefully and accurately drilled down the centre length of the threaded rear side, stopping short of the cockpit-visible dome. To a width of about 2.5 mm, which didn't compromise the structural integrity of the lens. Refitted & bingo! The indicator light became very visible. OK, only tested in the garage, but I know from the previous set-up that this permission of light now conducted down the lens barrel will now show up for me even in bright daylight. Just thought I'd share - 'cos it does make a difference to be able to see it (especially if, maybe, your self-cancelling springs are a bit weak etc..). Best, C.

Hey Non Member! Thanks. Yes, it shows that it's been a bit overheated. Not a foot-on-brake kinda guy, but I'm sure I've had to use it more recently. 50 years (potentially) in, I give it full permission to fail! Cheers, C.

I will say now:- I understand this switch is a plunger operated switch. Now, as is my way, I've butchered the old Delco (poss original?) switch (pics). I cannot, for the life of me, having pushed what should in theory be either end of the plunger, move any part of it! And therefore, not understand how this switch until recently, actually worked!! Additionally, I cannot report to have found any of what might be considered to be the 'operating' end of said (in my case alleged) plunger in the footwell, broken off, without me realising what it had been part of! Pics follow. Thoughts/comments appreciated!!

Pete:- meth9d 9f check8ng after fitment? Gunson volt/points unit nor 12V battery is going to cut it, is it?

Hokey cokey. Thanks, Pete - everyone! 😉😃

Cheers Pete. All interesting stuff. It's not going in till my more electrically competent bro gets back off hol! 😁

Lumenition Magnetronic . .

Static (or with strobe) setting to manual data demands BTDC white marked dot in c'shaft pulley (I replicate on pulley flange top). I could then mark with the oldskool degree chart 15 BTDC - in yellow maybe. When changed to elec ign, could I confirm 15 degs BTDC with zenon strobe? I feel I'm playing Devil's advocate here & should stick to static timing methods (gunson points/volt meter or 12V bulb)

Er, Pete - it's the Clubs'. In garage atm. Will they differ?

Seems to me, most of you are saying 15 degs BTDC is actually not enough for actual driving conditions . . . on a small single solex carb engine of 1147cc . . . ??!?

I guess I've raised this as I aim to change to elec ign (have kit - just don't understand it all well enough yet!) and thought; if the timing's right on points setting, a straightforward don't-move-a-thing as far as the dizzy is concerned should be alright. Then I saw retard the timing thing, if using unleaded. Do I need retarding?!? 🤣

Doug - interesting concept! Never thought of doing it that way!

I can't say I've heard her pinking in 35 years driving her. Dist was changed (can't recall why) and so is not 'old' original. Alwayschanged down (up!) when necessary rather than bang the big ends out! It was an idle query really, but . .

Team:- For years I've owned - but never used - a Gunson's Tachostrobe. Always looked a bit of a faff really, when, as an every day use car, I'd previously have had to get things up and running same day. So I timed the old girl manually. I recently checked the timing (for one reason & another) again, manually - thinking once all seems confirmed as well, I might use the Zenon Tachostrobe which I never have previously. I thought I'd Internet/YouTube the thing first. Whilst I haven't yet used it - I came across the info attached below . . . which was news to me. "Converting an early model of engine to run on UNLEADED PETROL entails RETARDING the ignition timing to a new setting recommended by the vehicle manufacturer." (source - a Gunson leaflet). My car has a Kipping unleaded head. Has had for years. It is a high compression 1147cc engine. The recommended timing is given a 15 degs BTDC. And I've always kept it at that. Never noticed any particular problems at that setting; I have never changed the timing to accommodate unleaded fuel, let alone now even more Methanol is part of the fuel mix at the pumps. In this advice it was recommended one contacts the manufacturer for revised timing settings under unleaded fuel use - see pic. (let alone, as I mentioned, extra Methanol as 'standard'. Does anyone know; a) how accurate such an opinion is about the use of unleaded? b) what the correct retardation should therefore be (I contacted a medium but couldn't get through to Triumph)? c) if and how today's methanol percentages might further change said timing - further retardation, or has Methanol no further effect to the existing situation? Best, C.

I decided to patronise our Club shop! 🙂

PL - indeed it was secured by a large steel nut - I thought even by my own standards somewhat over engineered but now I can see why! Seems Triumph liked this kind of plunger switch - after all, the courtesy lamp, door switches are just the same on a smaller scale, aren't they! Best, C.

Hi Badwolf, I honestly did a search before I launched my new thread! No resukt. Yep - all the wording was very confusing in some of those threads but the other Colin came to the same conclusion I did. My confusion was there has been no semblance of moving part in the old one (in that photo I posted). But it couldn't be anything else other than plunger extending and making the circuit whilst the pedal is depressed, once thought about (and others looked at online!!). Thanks a lot! 😉 C.

Thanks Badwolf! I have ordered one of the Club's - all metal, apparantly. Because my original has nothing in the way of moving parts, I couldn't figure how it operated. I think thd plunger is either completely stuck in, or part has snapped off. When the club replacement comes, I'll disect the old one!

Think by looking online I've answered my own question - they all seem to be plunger-driven. Mine must have its plunger jammed in . . . P'raps I can fiddle with it . . . 😉 Best, C.

Hello Team! Here I go again; I've been playing today. I discovered, following one electrical red herring that seemed to have summat to do with the hazard switch I'd fitted recently, that my brake lights weren't operating. The red herring did kind of relate to the brake light circuit initially, but on measuring volts in and zero volts out of the brake pedal switch, decided this was the culprit and have ordered a new one through the club. The original (or at least the one I took out) was Delco. All plastic. And it sits in FRONT of the brake pedal. It has no moving parts. I expected to see a plunger that would meet with the welded square pad on the brake pedal and cut the current to the brake lights in an arse-about-face type opposite of the conventional switch ( push for 'on' etc..). So . . . how did it work?? No moving parts; long thread, wider body (don't know why) - looks as if it may have been filled with fluid - but I can't actually imagine that. Club accessory book makes it look as if the new, lauded all-metal switch has some type of plunger. What's the real design of this switch, folks?? Best, Colin.

I havd to say, that as soon as the 'lid' was off, it was very tempting to take it to soft-top status!! 😉🙂

That's great, Colin - thanks for that confirmatory info! Grateful. Best, C. P.S. now with hazard warning lights operational!

Hi Chaps, Idle query! I recently noted after renovation that the two vertical rear screen chrome strips were incorrectly reinserted and I have swopped them back over (pic). You will probably know how you can tell this, by the 'tide' mark where the upright fits into the rear screen chrome corner trim units. So, having swopped them over, I note now that the very bottom of the upright, 'flows' over the horizontal bottom rubber and central 'chrome' finisher. But my question is; how were these two merging elements finished from manufacture? I could, for example, slice the chrome finisher at the point where the upright comes down - this upright looks as if it could push further on its seam and then would be tight against the horizontal bottom screen rubber. I simply can't recall how it was prior to renovation and as this has been a greater - and second - renovation than its first minor 'go-over' and not being the original owner, I don't know how factory would have finished this off! All thoughts welcome! Best, Colin

Chaps - I forgot to select 'follow this thread', so have only just seen everyone else's contribs. Very happy to go through it stage by stage if anyone is having difficulty . . ?? I posted a vid of them working. Hope you saw them & the switch. Best, C.