Darren Groves

Hi Roger, I am desperately trying not rush anything but patience isn't a quality that I posses much of, but it's better to be longer doing the job and get it right and how you want it. I spent a few hours on the car today, amongst other things I wanted to calibrate the 02 sensor and test the fuel system for leaks. After some head scratching as to why the pump and 02 sensor would only stay powered for a couple of seconds, I then remembered that they are fed by the same relay which is earthed through the ECU, which won't stay powered if the car isn't cranking or running. This was only after rechecking the wiring and moving the earth for the 02 sensor. I knew this, I've read it several times, but nothing much stays in my head these days..... I am hoping the 'Tune Analyze Live' function in Tunerstudio is going to get it running to a reasonable state, but that does rely on me getting it running and idling half decent first. Keep up the good work and keep us updated. Darren

Presumably this was with steel wheels rather than alloy?

I have done this with Pirelli strapping but can't remember the lengths. Not sure what car you have, but Newton Comercials do a strap kit: http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk/cars/triumph-herald/model-158/seats/2900-triumph-herald-vitesse-seat-back-squab-diaphragm-strap-rubber/

You might want to read this thread: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/1211-alloy-wheel-offset/ I went through the whole Offset thing a year ago, didn't find Watford Classics very helpful at all, I ended up going direct to JBW who matched the price. Watford Classics also wouldn't supply with metric wheel nuts (as I was fitting Freelander studs), whereas JBW were happy to for the same cost and generally were easier to deal with. JBW recommended ET20, whereas Watford Classics said ET25. Mine were 4.5j but with the same size Tyre as your using, no problems with rubbing for me.

Also available from here: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/wiring-tools/bullet-closing-tool-snaps-the-bullets-into-the-connector-sleeves.html If your going to be doing any modification to the loom, then these are handy too: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/wiring-tools/heavy-duty-rachet-action-crimp-tool-for-use-with-a-large-range-of-terminals.html & http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/wiring-tools/high-quality-rachet-action-bullet-crimp-tool-giving-a-professional-hexagonal-crimp-finish.html

Had a few small parcels arrive today, so managed to get some of the niggly bits done. I wasn't happy with the fuel hose clips I had fitted, plus I was a couple short, so I swapped them for some slightly smaller and better fittings ones, so that is the fuel supply and return done. Just need to fire up the pump, set the required pressure and check for leaks. Decided to replace the TPS sensor on the Throttle Body with a new one just to be sure, also tidied up the throttle cable linkage with a couple of penny washers at the adjuster and a better fitting solderless nipple. The Air ducting from Throttle Body to filter also cut to length and fitted. A last check at the fusebox with a multi-meter to be sure they were being powered correctly, couldn't resist a quick switch on just to make sure the fuel pump came to life, which it did. If the fuel lines don't leak when under pressure, then I am mighty close to trying to get he started. Getting a little nervous now as the software side of it looks a little daunting.

Hi Roger, Yes, seem to have made good progress in the last couple of weeks, probably due to doing all of the jobs on the conversion that didn't stop me using the car, so now it's just the under bonnet bits. Hope to have it running in the next couple of weeks, time permitting. Know the feeling about getting bogged down, my Fuel Tank solution was much simpler than yours though, plus I bought a spare so it was just a matter of swapping over. Keep us posted with progress. Darre

Another productive couple of sessions, the to do list is getting shorter. Yesterday I fabricated a bracket to secure the fuel rail so it doesn't shoot off when under pressure, needs a slight modification as it seems to be holding the injectors a little too high. I'm using steel braided PTFE fuel line to/from the fuel rail, I hadn't thought it through on how I was going to connect them to the regulator and filter, so yesterday I ordered a few more fittings and at 10am this morning they arrived, this meant I could connect up the last of the fuel lines. I also decided on how to connect the water hoses from the thermostat housing to heater. I am just waiting on a few hose connectors before I can test to see if the fuel lines can hold the required pressure, once I'm happy this is the case I can then think about getting it to the point of trying to start it. Before that I need to set-up a few bits. The Coolant & Air Temp sensors are ones that are listed in the ECU, so it's just a matter of selecting them from a drop down list. The Throttle Position Sensor will need calibrating, but that's simple, no idea how to set up the IAC valve, but that'll only be needed for warm-up. I bit the bullet and upgraded from the free to registered version of the Tuning software, I hate paying for software, but importantly it has it's own auto-tune function. Literally you just need to drive the car and it will learn where to make adjustments to fuel etc. so I suspect it will be worth every penny of the £50.00.

You could try Speedy Cables: http://www.speedycables.com/index.html

Have had a couple of sessions on the Herald in the last week, so have made some decent progress. First was to get the fuel rail drilled for the injectors, this was done by me and a friend who is a retired engineer, fiddly job but turned out well. I then had to get the ends squared off and tapped to take the -6 adapter. I was a bit worried about clearance between fuel rail and heater valve, but it just fits thankfully. All the under dash wiring was done a few months ago, poked through the bulkhead and left coiled up. So it was time to finish this off and fit the connectors for the injectors, IAT Sensor, CLT Sensor, TPS, and IAC Valve. Also shortened the accelerator cable to work on the Rover Throttle Body. Need a couple of penny washers to secure the cable better and a more appropriate solderless nipple, but it all works fine. Also removed the original 6mm fuel line and replaced with 8mm, this will be the return back to the tank. Getting quite close.....

Hi Roger, I haven't seen that link before, only that it should be installed between 10-2 o'clock. The choice of angle was limited given the position, as it had to fit between gearbox and chassis rail. It's difficult to tell from the image, but mine certainly isn't upright. Darren

Managed a sneaky hour in the garage this evening, exhaust manifold back on and 02 sensor in, angle and positioning worked well as it's all quite tight down there. Inlet manifold bolted on and Throttle Body attached. I hadn't done any trial fits, just took measurements so there was a really good chance I'd done something stupid. The good news is that the Throttle Body is exactly where I wanted it to be and there's clearance between it and the bonnet when it's closed. There's also a nice sized gap between the other end of the plenum and the bulkhead and the wheel arch. I can now start running the wires to injectors, air & water temp sensors, TPS and IAC valve.

I have obtained a VIN for a car from a motor factors by giving them the reg. It was something considerably more modern, but the principle is the same I guess.

If you haven't already, then you could try the Club Triumph forum as well and I am sure they'd publish a note in their magazine if you asked. Good luck.

TD Fitchett tend to be the best price for panels and I believe they are supplier to many of the traders.

Roger, Take a look at this article: http://triumphspitfire.rickbaines.com/the-efi-fuel-pump-high-low-pressure-system/ Darren

You don't need a base coat and lacquer on solid colours, a 2K paint will be best. Don't use cellulose unless you like polishing a lot....

Hi Garth, Thanks for the details, but we need it in 2K and by the litre rather than cellulose in an aerosol. No chance of getting a colour code or chip is there? Our regular supplier can match for us. Cheers Darren

Is there a Paint Colour / Code for the Silver Triumph used on the wheels for Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire etc...

Another job off the to do list. Bung for the 02 sensor welded in, so the exhaust can go back together.

Hi Roger, Well done, making progress. I shouldn't worry about the heatshield, I don't think fuel injection suffers in the same way. I'm using 8mm fuel line for both feed & return, currently it has 6mm. I'm struggling for a good position for the fuel pressure regulator too, but I would think you have more possibilities, maybe near the washer bottle? I may mount mine on the heater box... I managed a sly hour on the conversion today, just really to remove the carbs and inlet manifold and make sure the new inlet manifold fits (which it does thankfully). I have also removed the exhaust manifold to weld on the bung for the 02 sensor, so looks as if we are both around the same stage. Keep up the good work and posting the updates so we can see how you're getting on. Darren

Hi Roger, Leaky welds? I hope not, though it's possible I guess, just not easy to pressure test given the number of holes I'd need to blank off to do so. Need to put some thought to that. Don't do tidy..... If your TPS connector is only just touching the bulkhead, could you not try and move the engine forward a tad? Glad the new exhaust is a better fit, nothing is ever straightforward on this kind of job, is it? I've read pros and cons for exhaust wrapping, some say it encourages the pipes to crack. Isn't that only going to reduce the clearance to the inlet manifold though? Cheers Darren

That's the inlet manifold finished! (I hope) The bar for the fuel rail support bracket was moved further down the runners to clear the manifold studs, will just mean I'll need to create an angled bracket rather than straight threaded rod from rail to bar as original planned. Cleaned up my messy welds and painted with some high temp paint, I have to say I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. Apart from a few connectors and clips etc.that was that was the last major part, so no excuses now I just need to get on with it.

Roger, My exhaust is the same, it's a Bell system from the Club Shop, so not going to help. What about taking your existing manifold to a Custom Exhaust place, wouldn't take much to modify what you have? Darren