Darren Groves

Or turn the battery clamp up the other way, the thinner part will be at the top and further away from the terminals....

Www.autosparks.co.uk

Direct Link: http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/2016%20TSSC%20Club%20Shop%20Catalogue.pdf

Until I find someone to make the manifold flanges I'm at a bit of a loose end in terms of inlet manifold fabrication, but the 70mm piece of steel tube turned up today, which will be home for the Intake Air Temp sensor, so I took the opportunity to make the housing for it. This will fit into a piece of ducting in between the air filter & throttle body. Below is the 3/8 NPT bung after welding onto the steel tube. This is how it will fit. I can see me replacing the ducting as this one is impossible to cut without destroying it.

Hi Roger, I was going to wait until next week to do this as it's club night on Thursday and I wanted to ensure it was running, but in the end my impatience got the better of me. Quite simple in the end and she started on the button. Ebay add here if anyone wants to run Megajolt: http://r.ebay.com/87PFe4 Great photos from your Wales trip, have fun! Darren

The Megajolt is out (and on eBay if anyone interested!) The Herald is now running on the new Microsquirt ECU (Ignition Only), here's a very short video: https://youtu.be/hrmQO2LATJw The map table for Megajolt is 10 x 10, Microsquirt 12 x 12, so a little imagination was needed to create it, but it is essentially the same. Next stage is to fabricate the inlet manifold, but this is where I am going to be held up as I need someone to make the flanges......

Most of the work for the EFI conversion in the last couple of weeks has been wiring related. Running feeds for the relays and fusebox, adding in the extra wiring for the EDIS, power feeds to injectors, fuel pump, IAC valve and sensors etc., the theory being that when I have to start making connections for real it will all be in place and a lot easier. As I will be using the MS ECU for ignition only for a while, in theory all that's left now is to swap the tubing from the MAP sensor on the MJ and connect to the new 2-bar exernal sensor I've fitted. Then remove the shielded cable that currently carries the PIP/SAW signals to/from the MJ ECU to EDIS and make new connection between the MS ECU and EDIS. Below is the wiring at the very messy crossover stage. The MS ECU is the black box in the top/centre to the right and above is the MAP sensor, the new relays and fuse box can just about be seen across the very top. It should all start to look a bit tidier when I can remove the MJ ECU and associated wiring. With the MS ECU now powered and earthed, it did allow for a small glory moment. Connection to the ECU was made, so now I can create an ignition timing map to suit my current set-up. I will just use one that replicates the existing MJ set-up for now, there is also a new engine on the way so the map will need to be re-done when that's fitted.

Hi Roger, My IAC valve is also slightly open when not powered, my understanding (though may be wrong) is that when powered the valve will then open/close as required, so I think the one you have is fine. I must admit I've done almost no reading about ITB, so hopefully Clive will chip in with something as I think he will know more. Likewise I have ordered just about everything, I went for the Spartan 02 sensor in the end so that should arrive this week, that's probably the last of anything other than bits and bobs. You need stuff like this to exercise the brain, it's more interesting than Crossswords and Sudoku. Have a good trip to Wales. Darren

The engine side valances curve in and up on a Herald, so not much room for the plenum & throttle body, so no other option but to modify it to allow more room. My only concern before doing this was whether it will provide sufficient support for the radiator, but with it all back in place it seems fine. I will keep an eye on it and add additional support if needed.

Hi Roger, I done a bit more reading on the 02 sensors last night, I have just about decided that I will go for the Spartan 2 which is £128 delivered from ExtraEFI. No need to calibrate, no bells and whistles, the controller is built into the cable and uses the Bosch sensor. If the wideband sensor failed, why not swap it out for another, the price difference between the 2 is not huge. I grabbed a selection of junior timer connectors of a scrap Ford manifold I found in a pile of unwanted parts, saves a few quid. Cheers Darren

Hi Roger, The only thing that makes me uneasy about the LD Performance controller is that their website has no address, only a mobile and their Facebook page is barely used, just doesn't instil much confidence if you have a problem. Cheers Darren

I ended up with 3 different contact numbers and 3 different claim references, every time you phone it's the other department you need to speak to. Hope you get yours sorted soon.

Just taken 2 weeks to get approval for mine after someone reversed into it, I was told it would be approved within 48 hours when I first reported it.....bloody insurance companies!

Hi Roger, Yes that's the IAC valve I bought, it's a 2 wire PWM type. In the Megamanual it states the following, so my understanding is that Microsquirt can run them without modification: Note that if you are using a PWM Idle valve, such as those used in some Ford products, the standard transistor on a V3 main board is not sufficient to power the valve directly (on a V3.57 SMD main board, or a MicroSquirt, the FIlde transistor *IS* sufficient to drive a PWM idle valve without modifications). I haven't looked at Rev Limiter, I thought MS had a soft & hard limiter option anyway? I haven't decided on the Wideband controller yet. The LD Performance one seemed a really good price, but I couldn't find much about it anywhere and nobody on the Sideway's Forum had used one either. The Innovate one seems popular, but I have read a few poor reviews on it. I'm leaning towards either the Spartan or Techedge at the moment, but I could be swayed towards the LD on if I could find some good reviews. Alternatively save the money and get it set-up on a rolling road and just fit narrowband..... So many decisions to make!! Darren

Managed to get the fuel tank modification finished over yesterday and today. I went a bit OTT with the welding really as after letting in the patch that contained the the bung, I then decided to weld in plates that overlapped the original weld, then finished off with a skim of (allegedly) fuel resistant liquid metal type compound. The image below is after welding in the patch, bung and plates. Then I added a skim of liquid metal. The barb has a 12mm push on fitting which matches the inlet on the fuel filter. I'll give it a leak test when I get some fuel to put in it, but the question is do I take a further precaution and use a tank sealing kit?

I've done this a couple of times, didn't bother removing the radiator. IIRC All I done was take the weight of the engine with a trolley jack on one side, remove the 3 bolts/nuts, the fit the new one and just repeat for the other side. You should be able to get access both sides, but it is a bit of a fiddle.

Hi Roger, It's great that there's two of us doing this at the same time and even better that we're taking slightly different routes. I don't think you can read too many accounts of how people do this kind of thing and hopefully what we both put on here might help someone else, so feel free to post on this thread or the other or both, more the merrier I say! If you're already trying to load timing maps you're doing well. Have you just connected enough to access the ECU or are you well into the wiring phase? Darren

As I'm one of a couple of Forum users that are in the process of fuel injecting their car (rogerguzzi being the other), I thought I'd start a thread on my installation for those with in interest in this kind of thing. Apologies to the purist who like originality, you best go and renew your points & condensers again rather than read this thread ..... only kidding. I've been plotting this for a couple of years now if truth be told, but I'm at the point now where I've done as much research I as I can and my collection of bits to do the job has grown suitable large that I have no more excuses to get started for real. I would like to point out that most of my research has been in the main part via Nick Jones (Thanks Nick!) and his very informative Sideways Technology forum. If you're think about going this route, you could do a lot worse than getting yourself over to that forum. I've been running Megajolt for a few years now, so the ignition side is pretty much in place. No need to change much here as the trigger wheel, crank sensor, Ford coil pack & EDIS are the basis of the Microsquirt's ignition control anyway. There are alternatives to this set-up, but it's worked fine for the last >10,000 miles so I see no need to change it. My plan is to swap over the Megajolt ECU with the Megasquirt and use it for ignition only for a short period. This will allow me to familiarise myself with the MS software and ensure that the ignition side of it is working OK, before I enter the un-chartered waters (for me anyway) of EFI. So whilst the list of bits you need is fairly extensive, the image below was the box of goodies I received from Trigger-Wheels last week. MS ECU, Extended Loom, Map sensor, Fuel Rail, Injector Bungs, 02 Sensor bung, Shielded cable and a few bards for vacuum take offs. The other parts I've collected which are a mixture of used and new include, Rover 25 Throttle Body, Rover 25 Injectors, High Pressure Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Vauxhall Vectra Fast Idle Valve, Coolant & Air Temp sensors, various other bits and bobs and enough steel to make about a dozen inlet manifolds (steel is cheap....) There's various ways to do the inlet manifold, but I shall be fabricating one with 4 runners with a plenum and single throttle body. The reason I went this route is because it's simpler & cheaper than individual throttle bodies and in theory should provide noticeable improvements in power, torque and economy. It's a well trodden path in EFI conversions, so I feel comfortable doing it this way. So below is the basic bits for the inlet manifold. 35mm (o/d) for the runners, 76mm for the plenum, with a 60mm extension to make it easier to mount the throttle body. My only issue is that I'm trying to find someone to fabricate the manifold flanges, options aren't plentiful down here in rural North Devon, so still working on that. Power supply to the MS is a bit more complicated that MJ. Separate relays are needed for ECU, Injectors, IAC Valve & ECU, then another relay for Fuel Pump & O2 sensor, this one is controlled by the ECU so the pump & O2 sensor aren't running when they shouldn't be. I've now also added a 3rd relay to feed the Coil Pack & EDIS. Fuel supply is also a tad trickier than for carbs, you need a high pressure fuel supply and a return and a way of preventing fuel surge when cornering etc. especially when you low on fuel. Some use a swirl pot, others pumps inside modified tanks, but for the Herald I shall be taking advantage of the fact it's tall and thin. Thanks again to Nick for this idea. The existing fuel line will be increased to 8mm and become the return. My spare tank will have the drain tap removed and a steel bung welding in to allow the fitment of a barb to accept a fuel line to filter and high pressure pump, these will be mounted on the boot floor or outrigger (have decided exactly yet). Before I go on I should say that welding fuel tanks isn't a good idea for obvious reasons, but I must admit to doing it before. This tank hasn't had fuel in it for a year and it had a very hot and powerful jet wash before I began cutting it up. Yes I used and angle grinder, yes the tank was filled with sparks and I'm still here to tell the tale! Below is the old drain removed. Below is the old drain on the left and the new plate and boss for the barb ready to be welded in. The death of my welding mask stopped play here, so that's pretty much where I'm at, more to come in due course. Hope it's of interest to some!

Here you go: http://triumphherald1360.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/wheel-stud-upgrade.html

Correct.

They look lovely, but add the cost of the Weber inlets and that is an expensive solution. My conversion is on a budget, so anything like that is just not up for consideration. Apart from really looking forward to fabricating the manifold, I bought enough steel to make about a dozen for £50.....

I have done and am considering doing it to my spare so I can modify for the EFI conversion, but not something to do without some serious prep first. Most radiator specialist will repair/modify fuel tanks, they will send them off for a deep clean before working on them.

Got the PM, will email list of bits to you in the morning as I won't have access to my Laptop tonight. Have you considered what you'll be doing with your fuel tank? As the Spit tank is quite flat, you'll need a swirl pot. It's a bit simpler on the Herald as the tank is tall and thin, so will just have an outlet at the bottom.

Hi Roger, This is quite funny, you're asking all the same question I was a few weeks ago so it's good timing! The TB you've highlighted is the same as mine, but I have the 48mm one, depends on what your target BHP is but I think either will work just fine on a 1300/1500cc. Mine was used and with TPS, but I did get it very cheap, so not the end of the world if the TPS doesn't work. I always like a bargain, so I'd risk a used one You'll need some kind of ignition amplifier, they are not built into the MS. EDIS makes the installation simpler, plus you already have it there if you've been using MJ. The EDIS is pretty reliable and robust, personally I'd leave it in place. Here's a few links to parts that I've highlighted, if you want my full list send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward it to you: Fuel Filter Fuel Pump or use a Bosch one, the part number is in the title Regulator Avoid the cheap Unbranded/Chinese/Blingy regulators, you may find that they don't regulate the pressure very accurately. Air Temp Sensor can be mounted in the plenum just after the TB, but may suffer from heatsoak or if you are going to run some kind of trunking from the TB to a filter then somewhere in between there will be fine, most productions cars have them like this. Hope that helps!

Hi Roger, You can have a standard twin carb manifold modified, but those that have gone this route have been disappointed with the result. I am certainly no expert, so others may explain better, but basically the old manifolds are quite restrictive so you'll be going to a lot of effort for no real gain. A multiple throttle body set up is just more difficult, that's why many go for the plenum and single throttle body, it's what most car manufacturers do, so it must work! Microsquirt uses batch injection, so it squirts fuel when not on the compression stroke. You can set-up sequential injection (only squirts when on compression) with Megasquirt and I think Microsquirt does semi-sequential (IIRC). Darren