Darren Groves

Thanks for that Clive, I guess the clues were there but didn't know what thread the standard adaptor was. Do you have any of the 3/4" adaptors left, I'll take one if you have, just let me know how you want me to get payment to you. Cheers Darren

I know this raises it's head every now & then, but looking for a good oil filter. I currently have a Borg & Beck one fitted (can't remember where I bought it) but I think the anti-drain valve has failed or just isn't very good, so don't want another of those. Always used either Fram PH2869 or the WIX alternative before, the Fram one has been discontinued apparently so came across the K&N HP-2004 which it says only fits the 1500 engines, but aren't the oil filters the same for both engines? The K&N filter has a nut on the canister for easy removal..... https://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/product.aspx?prod=HP-2004 Darren

Could also be collapsed flexi-hose. I would change everything in pairs, so both hoses,cylinders, shoes etc. none of those items are that expensive and brakes are quite important Canley Classics & Paddocks are most peoples favourites, but do check prices at the TSSC Club Shop,normal quite competitive. Darren

I would have thought a fibre or copper washer of the correct ID would work better, a rubber washer or O ring would compress and go out of shape too easily, plus the rubber may not be fuel resisitant. Canley's do a Fuel Pump Kit 506423 that seems to include a suitable washer. Darren

Try here: https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/brass-fittings I can't remember the thread size, but just measure what you have. Darren

Silicone vacuum tubing is widely available on line, and is far longer lasting than those rubber elbows. Darren

Or just get a short length of 1/4" pipe, nut and olive and replace a short section out of the pump, trim the pipe with the poorly sealing flare and join the 2 with a short length of rubber house. You can probably buy everything you need for under a tenner. Darren

Back in the days when my 13/60 had carbs my pump was a pipe & olive, this is how it's listed on Canley's. Mine always used to work lose and then weep, I was forever tightening it. PTFE tape around the threads stopped mine from coming lose, but maybe Loctite 542 would work better. Have just used this on different fuel related connection and seems to have worked well. Darren

Autosparks.co.uk or 12vplanet.co.uk can supply the wire. Are you sure the 12v supply is live during cranking? Darren

5 Point Tour, CLM....I think the TSSC is a bit more than static shows these days, the road trips are there if you want them. Darren

Maybe Colin will get decent broadband soon with the extra money heading for NI, meanwhile in the rural South West we'll be waiting a fair while yet I fear. That 'some point' is a long way off for big chunks of the country, so the paper Magazine is here to stay for some time I'd say. Darren

The Accuspark and similar products in my experience are pretty dire, they're cheap for a reason. Most electronic ignition modules should work fine with a ballasted system if the power supply to the module is taken from a 12v feed that is live during cranking (so nothing connected to the accessory feed on the switch) and not the positive on the coil as this drops to 6v after starting. Most people pick up the live on the coil for convenience, but obviously not a good idea on a ballasted set-up. Darren

If you haven't already, use a 13lb radiator cap, I used to lose a bit of water when using the 7lb jobbies. Darren

Hi Steve, This may be of interest to you. I have just collected a 1979 Dolomite from Plymstock supplied by Warren's, the garage is still there (we passed it on the way home), they are a used car dealer now. Darren

I made my own version of these, they do work but increase the amount of travel on the handbrake, so more frequent adjusting to keep the handbrake travel sensible. I went back to the standard set up in the end and just made sure it was setup correctly. Darren

I agree with Richard, turning the lock ring it's normally pretty solid and can't be turned through the locked position as you can, doesn't sound right. Do you definitely have the rubber seal fitted? I wouldn't have thought hylomar is fuel proof (though I might be wrong), Wellseal is and would work better. Darren

Have a read of this: http://tssc-devon.org.uk/technical/14-engine-running-on.html Darren

Not personally, but have seen various posts on FB & other forums with people having issues with them, all need tweaking in different ways to fit. I have fitted several of the Bell ones sold by the Club Shop, they have always fitted OK. Darren

Can anyone recommend an effective fuel resistant thread sealer? Darren

I have used POR15 Cleaner Degreaser (previously known as Marine Clean), Frost sell this as part of a Tank Repair Kit or on it's own. Always worked well for me, though I usually use a very hot jet wash before hand. http://www.frost.co.uk/cleaner-degreaser-por15-marine-clean.html Darren

Had a rummage through a box of old bits and came across another Speedo, popped it in went for a drive and no erratic readings, so I think that's pretty conclusive it's a gauge issue. Darren

The washer between the angle drive & gearbox didn't make a difference, whilst Pete's magic grease had a very minor calming effecting of the over excited needle but it's still pinging around and over-reading by 15-20mph still when it never used to. Looks like the speedo be going back to Speedycables for testing. Thanks Pete & Ben for you help. Darren

Thanks Ben, all received. Posted below for others to see also. Darren

I have emailed you Ben, I'd be interested to see that document. None of the parts suppliers list a washer there. The 2 I've tried and the other one I may still try are all OE and don't seem to have any play in them. May end up trying this just to eliminate the angle drive. Thanks all Darren

Yes please, worth a try. Will PM you. Many thanks Darren